Advice on reloading please

[NickW]

Hi guys
I'm new to reloading and have just reloaded some 30-06, how much variation would you consider "normal" on the finished round?
I took time and care using a gempro to get the powder weight right, heads are hornady SST 165, primers are all the same BUT the brass is a mix of 3 or 4 brands. Brass was all FL sized and trimmed to length but out of 200 rounds I've got 4 that are showing a finished weight of 20 grns more than others and 20 that are plus 10grns . All the others with a mix of brass are within a tight tolerance from 0- 3 grns.
I've not loaded a hot load but went for a medium load.
I was concerned that maybe I screwed up so pulled 2 of the 20 grn ones , powder was spot on, so am I safe in assuming that 20grns difference is easily possible with a few cases being that much thicker?
I realise that if the case is thicker then the pressure could be higher and so accuracy will suffer but shooting at a max of 200 yards and normally less would this worry you enough to pull the bullets and discard them and the same with the ones that are 10 grns out of norm?
thanks for any advice as always appreciated.

 

[Alantoo]

Did you just set to and load 200 rounds or did you do a pressure test set first?

I load up a round at every half grain interval between powder or bullet maker's data starting and max loads. Try them out looking for pressure signs...sticky bolt extraction...then try a few load variations below the one with the sticky extraction to refine the load.

The overriding safety rule most books (and those in the know on here) recommend is that if you change any component part (case, powder, bullet, primer, seating depth) you should revert to a lower load and work up again to ensure that it is all compatible pressure wise with your rifle.

Most advice is not to mix case brands for the above reason.

Alan

 

[triggersqueezer]

never mix brass.can of worms re safety and accuracy.

 

[Yorric]

Different headstamps of brass should always be loaded in separate batches.
As you already say you apparently know that heavy brass means higher pressures.
You need not pull any bullets yet.

You have apparently not followed best practice & worked up a load from a "start" level. Going in "blind" at a "medium" load trying to save time & components is not the way to do it.

Maybe advisable before you shoot these bullets, to load a few more (all with light same headstamp brass) with a few at a "book" starting load & work up in 1% increments to where you are now. Learn to look for pressure indications & stop as soon as you see any. Se which load gives best accuracy as you go.
Your lightest rounds should be shot first as they should develop lower pressure.

Pressure & accuracy are not always linked in a linear relationship. Accuracy usually comes & goes through "nodes" as you increase charge weights.

All manuals advise starting low - for good reason - You are playing with extremely high pressures. 60000psi is no joke! Don't put yourself or others in danger.

Ian

 

[NickW]

Must admit did just load what I thought would be a good starting load. I used 53.9 IMR4350 which starts at 48.1 and goes to 57, so being new I did assume mid range would be fine, anyway yes lesson learnt. I wont be mixing brass from now on and I'll go with your advice Yorric of loading a few at starting and working my way up to the loads I have done and check for any problems on each one. Thank you all for advice.

 

[PeterH]

Hi guys
I'm new to reloading and have just reloaded some 30-06,
.

Nick. Not sure where in Devon you are but if you are a stones throw away from the Tiverton/Wellington area, you would be welcome to pay me a visit as amongst the many calibres I reload for I have 2 @ 30-06 I reload for, one of which is an African hunter who shoots babs at >700 yds. I would be willing to take you through the important stages of case prep to obtain clones of each case prior to putting the powder and bullet in the case. Discuss the pros and cons of Quickload and the OCW test theory.

I have a range on some farm land that your works of art can be put to the test. Afterwards I would be still likely to suggest you buy the ABC of Reloading for future reference. All I would need is for you to bring a few of your fired cases - with the same name on the headstamp of course!!

 

[Gunner223]

Nice offer there Nick, I would take pete's offer if I were you.

 

[palmer_mike]

Nick. Not sure where in Devon you are but if you are a stones throw away from the Tiverton/Wellington area, you would be welcome to pay me a visit as amongst the many calibres I reload for I have 2 @ 30-06 I reload for, one of which is an African hunter who shoots babs at >700 yds. I would be willing to take you through the important stages of case prep to obtain clones of each case prior to putting the powder and bullet in the case. Discuss the pros and cons of Quickload and the OCW test theory.

I have a range on some farm land that your works of art can be put to the test. Afterwards I would be still likely to suggest you buy the ABC of Reloading for future reference. All I would need is for you to bring a few of your fired cases - with the same name on the headstamp of course!!

Now there's an offer!

 

[finnbear270]

Afterwards I would be still likely to suggest you buy the ABC of Reloading for future reference.First point of reference I'm afraid, ..... with or without a mentor.

 

[Alantoo]

Most of the powder manufacturers have a reloading guide along with their load data, and it is possible to download a .pdf version of

Modern_Reloading_1st_Edition_by_Richard_Lee_

for further reading.

Alan

 

[PeterH]

Afterwards I would be still likely to suggest you buy the ABC of Reloading for future reference.First point of reference I'm afraid, ..... with or without a mentor.

Point taken Finn, but for some, the practical side is easier to understand than the written word and a few photos

 

[Alantoo]

Point taken Finn, but for some, the practical side is easier to understand than the written word and a few photos

A picture is worth a thousand words...a demonstration is worth a thousand pictures....

Alan

 

[NickW]

Thank you all , Pete very generous offer that I would gladly take you up on , I'm Winkleigh/Barnstaple way so not a million miles away. I'll pm you for contact details if that's ok.

 

[PeterH]

Thank you all , Pete very generous offer that I would gladly take you up on , I'm Winkleigh/Barnstaple way so not a million miles away. I'll pm you for contact details if that's ok.

Look forward to hearing from you - I am about 40 miles from Barnstaple

 

[ChesterP]

You need to start again really. To get an accurate load, you really have to ladder test, both for pressure testing and for discounting loads which aren't on a barrel node. Easy way to start is to start low (say 5 to 10% under max) and work up in 0.5gr intervals to about mid load, then 0.2 gr above there. Shoot one of each at the same target. Discount those which didn't fall within the same vertical axis (ie all those falling to one side or the other of where you get the rest falling above or below each other). Also discount everything above where you start getting pressure signs such as flattened primers, or ejector marks on cases or where bolt lift starts getting still or recoil gets noticeably heavier. Make up and shoot 5 of each that fell within that vertical spread on the ladder pressure test and shoot 5 round groups. Watch for the groups tightening up as you approach a node. You'll easily spot the nodes. Choose the tightest group...there's your load.

As above, never mix brass batches and keep track of how many times reloaded for each case batch.

 

[Dorsettaff]

Nick,

Another thing you can do to sort your brass into batches is check their water capacity. Put a fired case on your Gempro (with primer in place!)...check its weight....add water until the water fills the case and is just held in the neck by surface tension i.e. a slight "bulge". Then subtract the original weight from the "water filled" weight and make a note of it.
You can then sort all your cases into batches +/- 1-2 grains or so....That will help narrow down batches of brass with similar capacity which will help your accuracy. Also if you are using Quickload this will help with the input parameters.

As prev posters have said...mixed brass = problems!

DT

 

[NickW]

Ty guys very useful info there, i'll be working on my reloading with lots of the above advice. Thanks again.

 

[schaafman]

As mentioned a few times here, it's always best practice to batch your brass when reloading, PRVI cases and Lapua cases in 7.62x53 differ by about 12gr (lapuas are heavier) You'll always find differences in brass. If a stray case slips through when I'm reloading I normally give it to my dad to shoot! haha

Good luck.

J

 

[Middlebridge]

Reloading is a great hobby, but there are any number of potential hazzards which aren't always obvious at first.

You can work up a load for one manufacturers brass, but need to work up again if you change to another.
Even between the same headstamp, case volume can vary a fair bit. I've a few hundred PPU 308 cases and they vary by up to 8 grns case volume, and that will affect pressure/safety and accuracy.

I just stick to one good quality brass manufacturer and have binned the rest.

A good reloading book is essential, but someone showing you the process will take a lot of the mystery away.

ATB.

 

[NickW]

Having taken PeterH up on his offer , just wanted to say a huge thank you to him for a long and enjoyable day. Knowledgeable to the extreme and generous with his time and other bits and pieces. Great lunch even provided and lots of fun getting to what looks like a very workable load on the '06. Something I just couldn't get with the factory ammo I had. So once again many thanks Peter for all the time you gave up so freely to a complete stranger.