Attaching Antler to Walking Stick

Co1

Well-Known Member
Afternoon all. I’d like to attached a nice roe antler to a walking stick to make a nice thumb stick. Haven’t done anything like this before, any tips for attaching the angler to the stick?

Plan was to drill out a hole down the antler and then carve a tenon on the stick to insert in the hole and use epoxy to attach. How does that sound?

Also, how long would you expect a stick to take to dry? It is roughly 25mm holly and has been drying for about 4 months.
 
Firstly, I would give Holly, at least, a year, to dry.

Use threaded rod as an insert to attach the antler to the shank.


EDIT.

Holly does not like to hold onto its bark. My advice would be to remove it. It will be more difficult once dried out.



Steve.
 
Cheers Steve! That was quick, never thought about a bit of threaded bar. Great idea.
 
Threaded rod ("studding") is what I use. Drill into both the antler and the stick to take the rod , put plenty of epoxy (araldite glue will do) in the holes, and push the whole assembly together. Clean off surplus glue when dry, using a sharp knife.
Holly won't lose it's bark if you season it nice and slowly for a couple of years. I've done some nice walking sticks using Holly, bark on.
 
1. Drill shank to accommodate preferred diameter and length of studding or coach bolt with head removed.
2. Drill antela to accomadate rod.
3. Assuming you're going to cap the points with horn or ebony, carefully drill from one tip down to the open area that is to receive the support rod. Open up this channel with a Dremel if you have one.
4. Use two-part epoxy to set rod in shank.
5. Use a small amount of epoxy at antela base to set in position and allow to cure.
6. Glue in place your horn or ebony feral.
7. This is the tricky bit but critical to what will be strongest marrying of shank to antela possible. Pour two-part epoxy into the antela via the rod connecting passage you've created and fill until level with tip and allow to cure. Make sure the shank is clamped at the angle required to ensure the glue doesn't run out!
8. Install, profile and polish the horn or ebony antela caps.

Hope this makes some kind of sense and is helpful.

The below shank is stripped and dyed holly:
72x5Q0J.jpg

IGCp8Ql.jpg

gik9S76.jpg

K
 
I merely drill both to take a plastic rawl plug, then just cut The head off a long-ish woodscrew to leave the thread intact and screw the two together. If you've cut the joints straight you'll get a nice even joint. I generally apply some epoxy to both faces, too :thumb:
 
My approach is to use Dog Rose, scrapped with a rough ground knife,

Machine a brass ferrule...
Turn the stick to fit the ferrule...
Drill a 6.5 mm hole in the stick...
Find best centre of the antler and drill 6.5 mm hole...
File antler to a washer jig that sits in the 6.5 mm hole...
2 pack glue 6 mm stainless studding one half at a time...
Rub down then varnish...

Where the thorns were leave some interesting shapes.

20190728_182214.jpg

20190728_183507.jpg

20190728_183519.jpg
Tim
 
Just out of interest what do you paint on the sticks to make them shine?
Some sort of clear gloss?
I fancy having a go
 
Just out of interest what do you paint on the sticks to make them shine?
Some sort of clear gloss?
I fancy having a go
Two choices depending on if you use a dye and then if it's water or spirit based:
A. Sprayed yacht varnish for the former or if you just want shine & seal.
B. Oil finish for the latter with or without dying the shank for the more subtle look that will compliment any visible grain as per an oil finished rifle stock.

K
 
1. Drill shank to accommodate preferred diameter and length of studding or coach bolt with head removed.
2. Drill antela to accomadate rod.
3. Assuming you're going to cap the points with horn or ebony, carefully drill from one tip down to the open area that is to receive the support rod. Open up this channel with a Dremel if you have one.
4. Use two-part epoxy to set rod in shank.
5. Use a small amount of epoxy at antela base to set in position and allow to cure.
6. Glue in place your horn or ebony feral.
7. This is the tricky bit but critical to what will be strongest marrying of shank to antela possible. Pour two-part epoxy into the antela via the rod connecting passage you've created and fill until level with tip and allow to cure. Make sure the shank is clamped at the angle required to ensure the glue doesn't run out!
8. Install, profile and polish the horn or ebony antela caps.

Hope this makes some kind of sense and is helpful.

The below shank is stripped and dyed holly:

K

Nice quality job.
Imo
the dry old leather fibres could do with a dose of a good leather oil as you probably wont live long enough o_O to impart enough with hand oil secretions for 30 years lol.
 
rgUpirF.jpg


Two in the rough , finished now , as said use some 8mm stud to join the handle to the shank , as for the holly leave for another 12 months , dont cut the off shoots short as it dries they will split leave about an inch , then trim when seasoned , strip the bark , cleans up nice......
 
1. Drill shank to accommodate preferred diameter and length of studding or coach bolt with head removed.
2. Drill antela to accomadate rod.
3. Assuming you're going to cap the points with horn or ebony, carefully drill from one tip down to the open area that is to receive the support rod. Open up this channel with a Dremel if you have one.
4. Use two-part epoxy to set rod in shank.
5. Use a small amount of epoxy at antela base to set in position and allow to cure.
6. Glue in place your horn or ebony feral.
7. This is the tricky bit but critical to what will be strongest marrying of shank to antela possible. Pour two-part epoxy into the antela via the rod connecting passage you've created and fill until level with tip and allow to cure. Make sure the shank is clamped at the angle required to ensure the glue doesn't run out!
8. Install, profile and polish the horn or ebony antela caps.

Hope this makes some kind of sense and is helpful.

The below shank is stripped and dyed holly:
72x5Q0J.jpg

IGCp8Ql.jpg

gik9S76.jpg

K
Hi Klenchblaize, could you please tell me how you made your leather thumb rest? Is that a custom design or have you taken something from another product and put it on. Also is the the cord just braided leather cord? Many thanks
 
Hi Klenchblaize, could you please tell me how you made your leather thumb rest? Is that a custom design or have you taken something from another product and put it on. Also is the the cord just braided leather cord? Many thanks
Hi

The cord was sent to me from the US along with some custom varmint calls. As I don't carry multiple calls as a US duck hunter might I found another use for it. The leather 'saddle' was made by me.

K
 
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