best powder and velocity for .223 50gn bullets

straightpull6547

Well-Known Member
Hi,

I've just loaded some 50gn ballistic tips for my .223 which has a 22 3/4" barrel using varget ay 27gns (full case), velocity is pretty poor at 3122 fps over the chrony. I'm looking to try a new powder.

what are you guys using and what velocities are you getting? I was hoping to get 3400 fps out of it.

thanks very much in advance
 
I use H4895. Started at 23.5 grains, found a beautifully consistent sweet spot at 25.0 grains - max is reckoned at 27.0(compressed load). My rifle has a 1:9 twist rate.

Velocity I don't know, and don't mind. It's more about how well it works in your particular rifle.
 
dont worry about 200fps
worry about accuracy

3400 and a 1" group is fine at 100 yds but if its a 4" at 300yds that is not as good as a 1/2" grouo at 100 and 2" group at 300 and a MV of 3100

none of my .22 CF accuracy loads are hot
 
Since you have Varget, try some other bullets. Swap with a friend for some Sierra or Hornady.

For 50 to 52 grain bullets, 25.x of Varget should be an accurate load. Try 26.x grains Benchmark, 25.x grains of Ramshot TAC, BL-C2 or IMR-4064.
Move up to a heavier bullet, and CFE-223 and get as much or more velocity with a less than maximum accuracy load.
 
26 grains of N133 with a Rem 7.5 primer, Lapua case and a 50 grain Nosler BT is perfection in mine....I wont give you the velocity as nobody ever believes me.
 
H4895 26.5 grains v max 50 grain bullet don't know the velocity yet but will get it chronographed at the range.
20 inch barrel
this load works well for me.
 
if you want velocity then dump the .223 and get a 22-250, or just get factory hornady superperformance which makes reloading for the .223 pointless in the foxing department.
 
if you want velocity then dump the .223 and get a 22-250, or just get factory hornady superperformance which makes reloading for the .223 pointless in the foxing department.

but I want 3400fps, 22-250 would be faster than that and is too much bang for my night vision. reloading will give better accuracy than the factory ammo, surely?
 
but I want 3400fps, 22-250 would be faster than that and is too much bang for my night vision. reloading will give better accuracy than the factory ammo, surely?


depends, on the whole yes but some factory PPU shoots ridiculously well in rifles and gash in others

why do you want 3400 specifically?

External Ballistically speaking the difference in drop and drift on a sub 0.3 BC 0.224" bullet going 3122fps and 3400fps is precisely feck all

3122fps on Nosler BT BC of 0.238

100 +1.5"
200 0"
250 -3.0" - 8.4" drift
300 -7.9" - 12" drift
350 -14.9" - 17" drift
400 -24 " - 24" drift


3400fps same BC

100 +1.5"
200 0"
250 -2.48" (0.5" less drop) - 7.5" drift
300 -6.47" (1.4" less drop) - 11.2" drift
350 -12.21 (2.5" less drop) - 15.7" drfit
400 -20 (4" less drop) - 21" drift

So assuming your max range on quarry is 350yds
In order to you be of less significance to the Point of Impact than the bullets physical characteristics .....

You need to be able to shoot consitently inside a 2.5" target at 350 yds to be using the extra drop
You also need to be calling windage of less than 1.3" in a 10mph 90deg wind at that range

Now I know even on a good day 2.5" target cold bore hit (not group, or near hit) at 350 yds and calling a 1.3" wind difference is way beyond my capabilities and most others

its often bar stool MV quest that sacrifices accuracy when if blast is a consideration for your NV a few hundred fps less might make it a sweeter shooting round
 
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this is why I want 3400 fps instead of 3122fps. the difference is 25%, not feck all

M and cm

3122
170m zero

100 +2.9
200 -3.8
250 -14.4
300 -31.2


3400
180m zero

100 +2.6
200 -2.1
250 -10.5
300 -23.9


so in old money, the holdover at 300m in inches is 9.4" instead of 12.28", at 250m its 4.1" instead of 5.7" and effectively out to 200 I'm within an inch, rather than 1 1/2".

so 3400 is better for my needs.

trust that makes sense, even though I did jump betewwn metric and imperial.
 
the holdover at 300m in inches is 9.4" instead of 12.28",
at 250m its 4.1" instead of 5.7"


Fair play if you can hit a 1.6" target cold bore at 250 yds
or a 3.5" target at 300 yds, not sure I could in the dark with wind


are you holding or dialling?
if its holdover that makes it worse

reticule could be covering more than the difference in drop
 
Bewsher, im not understanding your point?

my figures show that there is a considerable benefit in having 3400 instead of 3122, which will result in more hits. Thanks for your input. I neither hold over or dial, i just shoot straight at it. 9" drop is better than 12" drop on a sitting fox.
 
Sorry I wasn't trying to take the thread over

What I meant was chasing velocity for theoretical trajectory gain rarely gets what you want, costs you more in powder and brass and is unlikely to get more hits
(actual gains can only be shown on paper and based on experience are never what the manufacturers publish!)

9" drop is better than 12" drop but both are theoretical and you only see the benefit of that theory if you can shoot less than the difference at that range

what I mean is if one load shoots 3" lower than than other at 300 yds none of that matters if you can only consistently get 4" or bigger groups with you your rifle, scope and ammo

the groups will overlap
 
As Bewsher has said.
Do also bear in mind that your rifle might not perform well with bullets being driven that fast. I've got a sweet spot in terms of accuracy which is perfect for me, and (should be) something like 3200fps. If I go any higher, the groupings start to open up.

Unless you are able to shoot something crazily accurate (like 2" groups consistently at 300 yards) then chasing the dragon in terms of the perfect load is a waste of time.

Also, bear in mind that at that sort of energy, you're starting to approach the rated CUP of the 223. Expect to get heavy bolt lift, possibly cratered primers. A hot primer or a tight crimp could well push you over the limit.
 
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