Block and tackle rigging diagram

Braces Airgun Masters
Alantoo said:
Bow string tensioning works on a dragged load or taut rope single handed, but obviously the load will just pendulum if used on a straight lift in free air...it was the issue you raised of friction on the sheaves relative to the ratio of load applied to the standing rope I was musing on.

Alan
Click to expand...
Shouldn't pendulum with my system, where the upper block is as close as possible to the support, e.g. convenient tree branch. With my nicely balanced arrangement, force applied to the middle pulley of the upper block. Not to the outermost one like the ridiculous Silverline thing. Clearly "designed" by someone without the least clue about rigging. Could have been done so much better, and maybe even for less cost.

But quite what you use to get it up there is another question, if it is very high. Maybe a job for for a catapult, fishing sinker and line, to then pull up say some webbing tape, sufficiently strong to take the full load, and also slide smoothly off again when you take it all down.

Needless to say, neither of my two setups have actually yet been used to suspend a deer, I can but dream.

Alan, since you are also a yachtie type, here is another link to how to reeve a 6:1 mainsheet using three sheave becket blocks. Like my bargains.

Reeving a 6:1 Purchase

And for say the Blaser owners, start making a tiny lightweight immensely capable setup, even for big reds, using one of these: Allen Micro Triple HT Block 16mm with Becket and one of these.: Allen Micro Triple High Tension Block 16mm

About £130 should get you started, plus shackles and cord of your choice. Of course you wouldn't want to cheap out by using paracord. You'd be wanting ultralight dyneema surely. Marlow Rope Excel Racing 4mm Only £2.59. Per metre.

Lets see, for 60 metres of Marlow Excel, another £155, total cost about £285 plus extras. Weight, 750g for the Excel, plus whatever the 16mm micro blocks weigh.

All in jest.
 
Honestly cheap block and tackle are nearly useless as the resistance in the blocks nearly counteracts the mechanical advantages of a block.
Get some decent climbing ball baring pulleys and a non stretch rope and you will be simply amazed. That’s been my experience
 
Another really handy thing if using any pulley/rope system for lifting lowering is a friction hitch.

Prussick being the simpliest 1 to tie, and tie it on the end u pull to hold that rope where ever u want it held. The othe rend of prussic would be tied round the tree/anchor u were going to use anyway

Basically it just acts as a rope grab and instead of wrapping it and un wrapping it round trees trying to keep some tension and retie to raise/lower u just slide it up or down to suit.

Not that u'll need it even for heavy reds, but a normal prusick has 4 'wraps' if ur pulling/lifting something real heavy u can up it to 6 'wraps'
If u got really fancy/complicated u could add a pulley ansd a fancy VT knot to make it a single handed operation as it advances the knot for u, but really getting a bit more complicated for the field, might be handy enough in a larder thou.

I have a few silverline tools, fine for a DIYer not the best but do the job and cheap if ur not using them very often, i can imagine like this pulley if ur pushing it towards its limit friction/cheap rope will come in to play.
Like any tool it depends how often u use it and wether ur pushing its limits, if using a lot or pushing it u would be better buying a more professional grade tool, and for the likes of this pulleys ur not talking a lot of money anyway
 
OK for you Silverline owners, my hidden mind has obviously been working unbeknown to me. But just popped up with an idea of how to transform it into something slightly less cr@ppy that makes more sense. Please bear with me and mock if I have missed something obvious, in my unconscious inspiration.

Firstly look a this end. A three sheave block without a becket. But a **** poor shackle/ welded loop. another matter. Toss both of those in the bin, I beg you, before one gives way with you underneath. Seems to be an open hook on the RH block. Could be a useful feature.
1661101409788.png

Look at the other LH end.

1661101571237.png

There we see the makings of a becket. Appears to be the full width of the pullies, with a thinner blue plastic spacer to one side. Near enough central.

So take it off and fit it to the other end of the RH block, in the middle. Now you have a three sheave becketed block, near enough centralised. OK I would want to make the becket more rope friendly so would probably punch in a brass leatherworking eyelet, since I have such. As a minimum file it or sand it to a smooth radius. Leave that bit to your imagination.

So what about the other end, now we have a four sheave block with one section missing a few parts, and nothing to attach it to.

Simples. Take out the missing section, keep the pulley as a spare for when the one that you haul on wears out first.

Now the proper fettling starts. The bolts are probably too long now, i.e. the threads don't run down far enough to the plain portion to tighten up enough. This is where I would reach for my dies and die spanner, and cut the threads a bit more. Or you could just pack them out with some washers. Do tread carefully, you want to be able to tighten them up until bottomed, but still leave the pulleys running freely, not pinched. A dab of suitable grease on all the bolts before reassembly might not go amiss either to keep the pulleys running smoothly. Even just the typical white spray grease beloved of so many.

But you still need something to attach it to the rest, a stirrup of sorts. Some metal strip, bend it into a U shape to fit, drill two holes for the bolt to go through. Or get a thick piece of steel, cut it and drill it out to replace the blue spacer in the middle. If not quite thick enough, add a washer or two.

There you go. Who will be the first to try to polish the £6 Silverline turd.

Klenchblaize said:
May help:
Click to expand...

Quite an erection going on there. Mostly sophisticated, but with bushcraft leanings for the gambrel. The weakest link, if that bit of wood happens to be rotten and broke then the whole lot would come crashing down on you. Surely a nice bespoke titanium folding one would complete the set. Do I detect a pair of Allen micro double sheave blocks ? Did you splash out for the super-duper high tension ones, wont let go until at least 400 kg.

Which would account for the slight entanglement visible. Basically either use single sheaves for a handy-billie 2:1, or triple sheaves for the perfect 6:1. Even numbers don't quite work.

Nice touch on the way you hocked at the knee rather than the ankle. Makes cracking the feet off at the flat joints so much easier than on the ground. And spreads it wider for the gralloch.
 
Last edited:
Sorry, timed out. Suggestion for the gambrel. A couple of sections of good quality aluminium tent pole, as large a diameter as you can get. Or even just one long piece, cut in half. Bespoke ends to pierce the hocks with plate to prevent further penetration. Features to clip your triangular bridle onto. Even shock corded inside so you don't lose anything. Know someone with a lathe to do that for you ?
 
1) Find tussock or nearby mound; gravity is your friend
2) Perform gralloch, permitting blood and any fluid to drain through the gullet;
3 Transport beast back to larder;
4) Larder beast, and clean up;
5) Leave larder light on so that the fellow with the (mental) ‘block’ and (odd, poorly running) tackle can find his way back.
:tiphat:
 
I make a tiny slit in each hock and thread a mini ss carabiner through and clip over the parachord. I then locate a wedging stick of suitable strength and length and simply jam each end to spread the deer as per picture. The stick does not hold the weight of the beast or make contact with flesh.

K
 
Depends on circumstances. Edge case I realise, but consider:

Stalker on his own, no larder, shoots a deer. His policy is to completely gralloch it, skin it and quarter it in the field. Whilst it is still warm and rigor mortis hasn't set in. Much easier skinning too. Back to the vehicle with the quarters in bags, to go into a chiller box with some ice packs to start cooling. Much lighter and more compact than trying to cart the whole thing back in a roesack or bigger. And the skin too in a bin bag, to dispose of in the black bin. The rest left in the field, responsibly.

Hard to do that on the ground. Hygienically. Whereas with say a handy tree or other structure to drag it to, a little pocketable hoist could transform the operation into a simple clean task.

If you have a companion, you could also share the load for packing out.

Best not to start off at last light though, unless you have a good head torch and maybe some more illumination as well.

Back home, transfer quarters to fridge to set up, rest and relax for a day or so. Then butcher in the kitchen, vac. pack and freeze.

Pretty much what I used to do in Norfolk at my GF's holiday place. We used to meet up there every couple of weeks, dashing over after work on Friday, arriving midnight or later. 200 mile drive each way, for both of us. She was still working so took the Monday off to get three full days. I wasn't, so usually took a week there and booked a couple of stalks, mostly muntjac and roe in the Summer.

Also not unusual to be chatting as we got nearer, me from the South, she from the North. Roadkill, two muntjac, both still warm. No visible damage. Five pheasant, not warm but still stiff. Two hares we'll autopsy them tomorrow but look fresh., not squished. Even once a superb large domestic white goose, watched the car in front hit it, broke its neck, but they just drove on. Swerved to avoid it, reversed back, had a think, then into the boot it went.

We would hang up the roadkill in the shower cubicle until the morning, then get up early to deal with it. Then either take the processed meat home in chiller boxes, or put it in the freezer to take back next time we were there. Happy days.
 
Last edited:
Sharpie said:
Shouldn't pendulum with my system, where the upper block is as close as possible to the support, e.g. convenient tree branch. With my nicely balanced arrangement, force applied to the middle pulley of the upper block. Not to the outermost one like the ridiculous Silverline thing. Clearly "designed" by someone without the least clue about rigging. Could have been done so much better, and maybe even for less cost.

But quite what you use to get it up there is another question, if it is very high. Maybe a job for for a catapult, fishing sinker and line, to then pull up say some webbing tape, sufficiently strong to take the full load, and also slide smoothly off again when you take it all down.

Needless to say, neither of my two setups have actually yet been used to suspend a deer, I can but dream.

Alan, since you are also a yachtie type, here is another link to how to reeve a 6:1 mainsheet using three sheave becket blocks. Like my bargains.

Reeving a 6:1 Purchase

And for say the Blaser owners, start making a tiny lightweight immensely capable setup, even for big reds, using one of these: Allen Micro Triple HT Block 16mm with Becket and one of these.: Allen Micro Triple High Tension Block 16mm

About £130 should get you started, plus shackles and cord of your choice. Of course you wouldn't want to cheap out by using paracord. You'd be wanting ultralight dyneema surely. Marlow Rope Excel Racing 4mm Only £2.59. Per metre.

Lets see, for 60 metres of Marlow Excel, another £155, total cost about £285 plus extras. Weight, 750g for the Excel, plus whatever the 16mm micro blocks weigh.

All in jest.
Click to expand...
you are being ridiculous regarding the Blaser owner, everyone knows they will let the butler deal with the carcass
 
Sharpie said:
His policy is to completely gralloch it, skin it and quarter it in the field. Whilst it is still warm and rigor mortis hasn't set in. Much easier skinning too. Back to the vehicle with the quarters in bags, to go into a chiller box with some ice packs to start cooling.
Click to expand...
You’ve been reading my posts!

I thoroughly recommend the Large Waitrose re-sealable freezer bags. Cool joints for 5 days in fridge before freezing or cooking.

K
 
Klenchblaize said:
You’ve been reading my posts!

I thoroughly recommend the Large Waitrose re-sealable freezer bags. Cool joints for 5 days in fridge before freezing or cooking.

K
Click to expand...
Wow Waitrose, only a Blaser owner can afford to shop there (only jesting) I have just checked out those bags, I quartered up a red in the field recently, and packed it out on my back, looking at those dimensions I think a red rear quarter would be too be big for them would't it?
They are cheap though so I'll see if I can pick some up, if Waitrose let me through the door :lol:

Block and tackle, the links Sharpie put up, a client made me the exact same one years ago in exchange for a roe deer he shot, I think it was a bargain I got

Cheers
Richard
 
Klenchblaize said:
You’ve been reading my posts!

I thoroughly recommend the Large Waitrose re-sealable freezer bags. Cool joints for 5 days in fridge before freezing or cooking.

K
Click to expand...
I thought you might get the reference.

BTW, I have been pricing up what I consider to be the best affordable lightweight marine stainless steel ball-bearing mini blocks, top quality 4mm 620lb paracord, 1000kg rated shackles (to attach gambrel and lift rope) and cleats (for cleating off the cord to e.g. the base of the tree when working on the suspended deer).

A 2:1 handy-billy, with max. working load of 115 kg, breaking load 540 kg, could currently be assembled for about £46 parts cost. This includes two single blocks, two shackles, one cleat and 30m of paracord, enough for approx. 10m of lift from the ground.

A 6:1 triple sheave block setup, max working load 320 kg, breaking load 650 kg, would cost, including shackles, cleat and 50m paracord (7m lift), would cost about £75 for the parts.

NB. this doesn't include any lift rope/strap to pull it up over say a tree branch. Everyone would have their own ideas about how to do that. Needs to be strong enough to take the full load obviously. 640 lb (290 kg) breaking load paracord be adequate for the handy-billy, but not for the 6:1, obviously.

I've been pondering selling ready made up ones, but they would obviously cost quite a lot more, and I'd need trade membership. Still thinking about that.

Anybody interested ? Post here and send me a PM. I'd need expressions of interest in at least five per type, before taking this any further.
 
Sharpie said:
I thought you might get the reference.

BTW, I have been pricing up what I consider to be the best affordable lightweight marine stainless steel ball-bearing mini blocks, top quality 4mm 620lb paracord, 1000kg rated shackles (to attach gambrel and lift rope) and cleats (for cleating off the cord to e.g. the base of the tree when working on the suspended deer).

A 2:1 handy-billy, with max. working load of 115 kg, breaking load 540 kg, could currently be assembled for about £46 parts cost. This includes two single blocks, two shackles, one cleat and 30m of paracord, enough for approx. 10m of lift from the ground.

A 6:1 triple sheave block setup, max working load 320 kg, breaking load 650 kg, would cost, including shackles, cleat and 50m paracord (7m lift), would cost about £75 for the parts.

NB. this doesn't include any lift rope/strap to pull it up over say a tree branch. Everyone would have their own ideas about how to do that. Needs to be strong enough to take the full load obviously. 640 lb (290 kg) breaking load paracord be adequate for the handy-billy, but not for the 6:1, obviously.

I've been pondering selling ready made up ones, but they would obviously cost quite a lot more, and I'd need trade membership. Still thinking about that.

Anybody interested ? Post here and send me a PM. I'd need expressions of interest in at least five per type, before taking this any further.
Click to expand...
Parachord strength/quality is the governing factor in what you can lift with these mini setups. I had mine (the chord) give up halfway through lifting a fallow last year.

K
 
Freeforester said:
1) Find tussock or nearby mound; gravity is your friend
2) Perform gralloch, permitting blood and any fluid to drain through the gullet;
3 Transport beast back to larder;
4) Larder beast, and clean up;
5) Leave larder light on so that the fellow with the (mental) ‘block’ and (odd, poorly running) tackle can find his way back.
:tiphat:
Click to expand...

1. Snap fingers.
2. ‘I say, you there, see to it’
3. Light cheroot.
4. Proceed to hostelry.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Elephant hunting & cartridges - Dr Jo Hall
Replies
14
Views
10K
cjm1066
C
ALLHONE hunting knives designed and made in NZ
Back
Top