Boresighters - are they worth getting?

hi there, i to brought a cheap collimator of ebay, its a used simmons, but may be sharpie could help me with this as didnt have much luck with it.
i lined the cross hairs up with the collimator, but when i took it out to try it, its was shooting very high. I used it at 150 yards.
reading on what people have wrote, should i start at 100 yards?
But yes its is an hardy thing to have if your changing scopes or taking them off for maintance.
atb
simon
 
Sharpie
Please dont insult my inteligence the gunsmith did his time at Greeners and produced stunning workmanship you seam to be the only person that has a good word for bore sighters but you are entitled to your opinion.
The technical data you produce sound wonderfull on paper.
But after 23 years of looking down barrels you tend to get quite good at it.
 
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Please dont insult my inteligence the gunsmith did his time at Greeners and produced stunning workmanship

Perhaps his experience didn't extend to basic boresighting i.e. getting the gun somewhere on the paper. Obviously not, total fail. Don't blame the tools, just the workman.

Where, as I have repeatedly made clear, squinting down the barrel is fine, nothing more required.

I'm not trying to persuade anyone to fork out £20 for an S/H collimator.

Simon1979 I'll get back to you tomorrow, but got to go to bed now.
 
Expanding and moving on from what I said on page 1 about using a case without a primer in the chamber.

From basics....when fitting a 'scope to a rifle, I use one of those red MTM cleaning station boxes with the cradles, I set the rifle up horizontal using a small spirit level, then the 'scope using the same level the same way round on the 'scope and tighten each screw alternately as per a car wheel... usually one or half a turn on each to keep the 'scope flat.

Keeping the rifle on the horizontal I then boresight it, there's a convenient chimney pot about 200 yards away or a white painted house about a mile away which just fill the bore... ie the corners just touch the bore. I wind the 'scope up to it's max magnification to adjust the zero.

First shots are at 25m and I aim to be around 1"/25mm low - click adjustments are 4 times what they would be at 100m. One shot and adjust the POI using a ruler and then out to 100m and adjust using the ruler if I don't have a target with 1cm squares on it (Saves me a walk).

I get grumpy if it takes more than 3 or 4 shots.

atb
Fizz
:cool:
 
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hi there, i to brought a cheap collimator of ebay, its a used simmons, but may be sharpie could help me with this as didnt have much luck with it.
i lined the cross hairs up with the collimator, but when i took it out to try it, its was shooting very high. I used it at 150 yards.
reading on what people have wrote, should i start at 100 yards?

Simon, you are expecting too much by starting at 150 yards, unless you have a very large target to aim at. Better to start as close as you can, say 50 yards, maybe even as close as 25.

Post #25 explains this well.

Also don't expect the collimator to be precisely calibrated. The little grid inside would have to be positioned very precisely, you can't expect it to be perfect for something that retails for £40.

In mine the zero position is out by about 2 boxes right, 4 boxes high, when tested on a variety of known-zeroed rifles. Its quite consistent, and now that I know this I am confident of getting pretty close. E.g. if I just used it without this correction it would put me about 16" high at 100 yards.

This is why a workman needs to know the imperfections of his tools, not trust them blindly.

When you fit the collimator, try to be consistent and repeatable, e.g. tighten the screw that holds the spigot in the same position and tension each time (or leave it fitted, if not using different calibres). Also rotate the unit so that the grid lines up exactly parallel with the crosshairs each time. If it is twisted even a little you will see errors.

Rest the rifle on e.g. a pair of bench bags, or cut a cradle into a stout cardboard box, to set it up. If you try to do it unsupported it is frustrating, it doesn't take much of a knock for the collimator to twist in the barrel and spoil the reading.

TBH I find mine most use for checking out scope adjustments, and as a confidence check before using the rifle on quarry.

I've discovered various horrors this way. Even one quite good scope where the reticle was slightly twisted. When lined up with the collimator grid, the elevation adjustment also moved the windage slightly, and vice versa. Difficult to discover otherwise, the twist was not visible to the eye.

There are so many other checks you can do, e.g. discover the true magnification when mil dots are correct on 2ndFP scopes, are the turret clicks precisely calibrated or even variable, what are the limits of adjustment range when the turret keeps clicking but the reticle has stopped moving, do I need a 20moa scope rail or is there already sufficient range in the scope, is there interaction between elevation and windage adjusters, is the optical centre in the midrange of adjustment, does the zero shift as the scope is zoomed etc. etc.

There are limitations, the main ones are that the scope needs to be parallaxed at at least 100 yards for the grid to be clearly focussed. Fine for centrefire scopes but air rifle and rimfire scopes can be tricky unless PA adjustable. Also very high scopes 56mm plus or smaller ones on very high mounts may not line up close enough to the centre of the collimator, so the full grid may not be visible.
 
hi sharpie,
thank for the help, it makes sense now. I have the same collimator as yourself, so i will let you now if mine is out to.
Im thinking if you have start of at a close range and work up it kind of makes me wounder is it even worth using it to start with, i dont think i will save that many bullets. But yes it is useful for checking zero.

When you push the arbor in and turn it to line the cross hairs up, does the arbor do any damge to the barrel as it is a tight fit??

many thanks
simon
 
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hi sharpie,
thank for the help, it makes sense now. I have the same collimator as yourself, so i will let you now if mine is out to.
Im thinking if you have start of at a close range and work up it kind of makes me wounder is it even worth using it to start with, i dont think i will save that many bullets. But yes it is useful for checking zero.

When you pus the arbor in and turn it to line the cross hairs up, does the arbor do any damge to the barrel as it is a tight fit??

many thanks
simon

It is well worth using to start with. Starting at 150 yards or plus is not sensible.

As others have posted, if you just use it to get onto close range paper, from then on use a ruler or squared paper, understand the clicks on your turrets and you should be spot-on within half a box of ammo.

I also worried about the arbour, but it is hard chrome plated and ground (I've miked mine) to very good precision. It has to be a tight fit. The spring looks like phosphor bronze. Feed it into the muzzle carefully, let it twist with the rifling. When fully seated, twist it into alignment. If it has any effect on the rifling (I doubt) it would only be where the the spring lightly touched the rifling, several cm behind the crown. I don't worry about it.

TBH I have no idea how they can make this thing so well, for the asking price.

Once it is seated and aligned, tap the muzzle gently to further settle it into the barrel. A sensitive touch will give very repeatable results. Hamfisted approach, no mechanical sympathy = dissatisfaction.

If you want to understand the grid alignment, the nose unscrews (contains a diffuser) and underneath is the grid, looks like a piece of photographic negative, you will realise why the calibration precision is what it is.
 
it makes sense now, the instruction that came with it dont really help that much, and i did wounder at the time, how well it would work out at 150yr or even 100 yards.
I will start at a low distance and work up.
Im asuming that once ive zeroed in at say 25 yards, i could record where its at on the boresighter, and so on for different distances.

with regards to the arbor doing damage, i would like to that they wouldnt sell them if it did, but when you first use them it is worring

atb
simon
 
I use the traditional method of sighting through the barrel / bore at a distant object and then adjusting the scope to point of bore aim , but i also use laser bore sighters - the cartridge type not the end of barrel spigot type (they truly are crap - totally inconsistent in my experience ) , i use the traditional method to get me on paper and then when the rifle / scope is zeroed i set the rifle up in a rest and aim at a piece of paper marked with 2" squares (hand drawn but like graph paper) , i then use the cartridge type laser bore sighter and mark where it 'hits' the paper with the point of aim being the centre , this being repeatable in the future i can and do check my zero using this method , much the same as a collimator i suppose but since the collimators i have come across are the barrel end spigot type i dont trust the repeatability / consistency .
 
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Hi which cartridge type/make do you use as there are a lot to choose from.
Again do you start at a small distance and work up from there, and what sort of distance do sight your scope looking through the barrel.
Many thanks
Simon
 
Hi which cartridge type/make do you use as there are a lot to choose from.
Again do you start at a small distance and work up from there, and what sort of distance do sight your scope looking through the barrel.
Many thanks
Simon
I have a couple of expensive ones- Red-i - but to be honest as long as its brass (not aluminium ) i have some cheapies that work pretty much as well , i would look out for the ones with tiny grub screws showing on the neck of the case - if required these can be 're-calibrated ' / adjusted.
For the initial bore sight a bright target at 100 yds , using the laser as a collimator to check zero - 25 yds on the indoor range
 
Remember Richard Prior's three shot method. Put rifle in work mate. Fire shot at target. Now I'm assuming it hits. Move cross hairs to hole in target. Fire a shot to check. Recheck cross hairs. Fire one more shot for absolute certainty. Take rifle out of workmate. Go stalking. Easy peasy.

Hmm, maybe with a PCP air rifle.

I can't see this being workable with a deer calibre rifle, no matter how soft-shooting.

Ever tried it for real ?

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I see how it might work, but you would have to carefully reposition the rifle after each shot to centralise the crosshairs on the target again, before adjustment.

Seems to work for these!
 
Im asuming that once ive zeroed in at say 25 yards, i could record where its at on the boresighter, and so on for different distances.

Don't bother trying to get a precise zero at 25 yards, you are just trying to get close enough on the paper so that you won't miss it altogether at e.g. 100 yards. Should only take 2 shots, if you measure and calculate clicks.

As said in post #25, you want to be a little low on the target, by the distance between the centreline of the 'scope, and the bore. Thats because there is negligible bullet drop at such short range, so when the crosshairs are on the target the muzzle is an inch or two below.

Even if a technically perfect eyeball boresight or collimator still may not give a great result, things like bedding, barrel harmonics, corkscrew bore etc. can mean a rifle shoots to a different POI than expected.

Once you have zeroed at the proper range, and noted the calibration error of your collimator, you should subsequently be able to miss out the short range check.

Its important to start off close for the first time. When target shooting I would be told to stop using that rifle if more than one or two shots missed the target altogether, or worse still hit the mantlet. But I have witnessed hunting rifles being "zeroed" by looking for strikes in the ground surrounding the target and guesstimating how far to twiddle the knobs. Not good practice IMHO and wasteful.
 
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