brass cases, what gives first?

[moeggesit]

I should say Dalua is just about correct.

Regarding case head separation, however it is not possible to resize cases too short unless there is a fault with the dies or shell holder, it is usually a headspace problem with the rifle or in the case of rimmed carriages oversized chambers. Some cases, particularly recent S&B has poor brass and tend to separate after only a few reloads.

Split necks, again poor (hard) brass, oversized chambers and lack of annealing. You aee it a lot in old factory ammunition (60 years plus).

Loose primers, I can only suggest is a result of too high pressure. I’ve personally never lost any cases due loose primers so cannot imagine it being due to normal wear?

 

[timbrayford]

what in people's opinion gives in first, split necks, case separation or lose primmer pockets,
im thinking of getting an annealer and i know its also to do with constant neck tension, and prolonged life, but no point buying one for longevity of the brass if lose primmer pockets or case separation
rears its ugly head first,

thanks.

lee

Apart from horrid PPU cases which appear to disintegrate in a random manner after 4+ firings just about every other case I've discarded has been down to split necks

 

[HandB]

My .222, .243 and 7mm Mauser are prone to split necks after about 5 to 10 reloadings as the brass in the neck work hardens so I do need to get an annealer, which hopefully my engineering pal will make eventually. My .308 cases don't suffer from split necks even after similar number of reloads as presumably the relatively wide neck is less stressed during the firing and resizing process.

 

[Dalua]

Regarding case head separation, however it is not possible to resize cases too short unless there is a fault with the dies or shell holder, it is usually a headspace problem with the rifle or in the case of rimmed carriages oversized chambers.

Thanks for the kind words, but I'm afraid I disagree with this. I think, particularly if a long-within-spec chamber and a short-within-spec die meet then case-heads can start to be at risk after just a couple of reloads.
Clearly the faults you've mentioned will make things even worse - but it didn't take me long into my reloading career to stop FL-sizing down to the shell-holder, and instead to start adjusting the die to match the specific chamber for which the cases were intended.

 

[Namman]

Apart from horrid PPU cases which appear to disintegrate in a random manner after 4+ firings just about every other case I've discarded has been down to split necks

PPU cases have served me well in .223, 243 , 270 , 308 , 300WM and .375 H&H.
I know it's heresy but the worst brass I ever had was Lapua 308, a number had body splits on first firing.
Dumped many cases with split necks (esp .300WM).
Quite a few .303 with signs of incipient head separations.
Never had an issue with primer pockets.

 

[moeggesit]

Thanks for the kind words, but I'm afraid I disagree with this. I think, particularly if a long-within-spec chamber and a short-within-spec die meet then case-heads can start to be at risk after just a couple of reloads.
Clearly the faults you've mentioned will make things even worse - but it didn't take me long into my reloading career to stop FL-sizing down to the shell-holder, and instead to start adjusting the die to match the specific chamber for which the cases were intended.

You are not wrong, but my point was that the “problem” is with the chamber and not the dies or reloading. Neck sizing and annealing will prolong case life if you only have one rifle

 

[the prowler]

In .204 primer pockets esp on Winchester brass . Some gone after 3x reloading!
D

I use Hornady cases in my 204 Ruger. And never had any cause for concern. Excellent cases. I just neck size.

 

[ValleyPursuits]

IMO consistent neck tension is one of the most important contributors to precision - and that’s what annealing helps with. An added bonus is a reduction in case neck splitting over time. It’s a pain but I anneal after very firing.

 

[Utectok]

I would say primer pockets if it wasn’t lost in my pockets or woods first which they alomst always are long before there shot out

 

[ChesterP]

Primer pockets used to give out first with me. Don't be tempted to use them if they're not a snug fit, as partially blown at detonation, they'll come out hard against the bolt face and you might find that pressures are enough to blow past primer walls and gas cut the bolt face. At the slightest hint of a sloppy primer fit, I'd usually dump the whole batch. With PPU I never got more than 4 or 5 reloads in 223 before primer pockets went, even with annealing. Lapua, norma and Sako brass all seemed to do at least double that. In 308, quite a few of my PPU brass migrated enough after 3 reloads that they'd not feed properly, so I gave up using it and switched to Lapua. Never had an issue and would reckon on double figure reloads with moderate loads. Load hot and high pressure, you'll get less from the brass.

 

[Tikkat1x]

thanks for all the replies chaps, not sure why but iv not had any notifications of new posts on here even though iv got it on m y watch list, how do you tell when i primer pocket is lose, other than it falling out, i prime with a hornady bench primer, and iv noticed some go in easier than others, but im only on the second firing of hornady and sako brass, and 5 firings on my ADI brass.
thanks.

lee

 

[ChesterP]

Just feel the primers in even with a bench prier and a little experience, you've soon know when they feel too loose. My rule of thumb was if there was no resistance felt, then that was the time to dump the brass. You should feel a little resistance as you start seating them. New, there should be notable initial resistance as you pull down on the lever when bench priming. Don't be tempted to prime cases like an orangutan on speed, thumping them in. Just a gentle pull down will allow more feel.