BSA CF2 6.5x55

One can free float almost any rifle. However the real reason for free floating seems to have been forgotten. Prone riflemen use tight slings, I believe Whelen gives a pressure applied to the sling of up to 70lbs pull, and such pressure pulling slightly to one side can pull even well seasoned walnut into contact with one side of the barrel of the rifle and when shooting strings/relays as in competition this can effect the shots especially as the barrel heats up. They were not shooting 3 shots as it seems most do today when testing rifle and ammunition. Five shot strings being the minimum and twelve shots being quite normal.

Whelen considered 10 shota a minimum for load comparison and testing grouping ability.

Hence they gouged out the barrel channel to give a large clearance to the barrel this being an example of such floating:-

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note the very large gap and the heavy barrel on this prone target rifle.

Sporting/stalking rifles are another matter. Their barrels are thinner in contour, lighter in weight as are the stocks, or should I say were the stocks. The "modern" trend seems to me more towards outfits that seem closer to artillery pieces in size, bulk and weight than a stalking rifle.

It was found that in a properly seasoned stock that a forwards pressure point gave better results as this forward pressure point dampened the barrels whip. If one shoots enough to get the barrel very hot and by that I mean too hot to hold in ones hand the last shot/shots may "walk" a little on the target but in stalking tis a rare occasion to shoot enough to get a barrel that hot is it not?

Free floating also puts more pressure on the bedding area of the stock especially the front part which acts as the fulcrum to support the extended weight of the barrel stretching out in front. In poorer woods and poorly seasoned and often Kiln dried wood this front area compresses over time even if glass bedded hence to development of pillar bedding as we know it today.

With the pressure point out front there is not so much pressure applied to the front bedding area, i.e under the front receiver ring and recoil lug, as the barrel is also supported at this forwards point spreading the load even at rest.

No doubt there are those on these forums which will disagree with me.

For an example I own a commercially sporterised Swedish Mauser made at Carl Gustav around 1905, well the original rifle was, in the sporterisation a new M38 length barrel was fitted and some new bolt parts all forced matched to the action. This means all the serial numbers match and the Swedes numbered just about every part. The rifle was fitted with a new sporting stock. When I acquired it the rifle had not been shot except for proofing so was like new. The stock was covered in some preservative which was a right cow to remove but it did eventually come off and I applied a hand rubbed oiled finish and the rifle shot very well as these Swedes are known to do. Oh yes reading and believing what was written :doh: about free floating I regretably floating this rifles barrel :banghead: .

Over the years the grouping opened up a bit and after one particularly wet days shooting I stripped the rifle out of its stock to dry and clean before a light oiling and once the stock was totally dry reassemble. It was then i discovered over time the front bedding area had compressed and now if one tightened the rear tang screw the action was being bent to make contact with the Mausers rear stock bush. The stock being a modern kiln dried one of what our American cousins would call utility grade was not of the best quality and was not as hard and resistant to compression as better walnut, if indeed it is walnut, would have been. the only option was to glass bed to reclaim the level of the bedding. Now I also own stalking rifles of 100 years old and their bedding and inletting is as good now as the day it left the makers. Every single one of these has the traditional pressure point bedding just back from the tip of the forestock.

I am also fortunate enough to own a fairly modern bespoke rifle which has a carefully hand crafted stock of fine dense, and heavy walnut, in which the action and barrel fit like a glove. There is no bedding compound used at all on it and if the "nut behind the butt" does their bit right this rifle will place all it's shots in a nice tidy little group. With a handload I found for it it will quite regularly place the shots touching or almost touching at 100 yards. It's been out in the weather now has some marks on the wood and it still performs the same. All this lead me to question the free floating mantra so often chanted and written about and tend me to believe that in modern production was just a cost cutting means of making rifles. Proper bedding and getting the pressure correct in the pressure point type takes skill and time where as anyone can hog out a barrel channel. One could probably train a chimp to do so. Like plastic mouldings they are there to cut costs and not really as improvements.

With your new stock it will easy to rout/gouge/sand out the barrel channel to float it IF the pressure point bedding system does not give the results you seek. However putting a proper pressure point pad back in although feasible is not so neat nor easy.

It's your rifle, your stock and your money so the choice it really down to you at the end of the day. Others such as myself can only present their views for you to consider. I hope this is of use or at least interest.
 
Oh yes if you do decide that free floating is the only way for you. Then you could do a lot worse than contacting Redmist off these forums. his work is very neat indeed from what I have seen.
 
Thank you brithunter for a very in depth review. I will take it all on board, maybe the term is "if it aint broke dont fix it" could come in to play with this one.
Tusker
 
Out of curiosity, how do the BSA CF2 compare to other rifles of the time like the Parker Hale 1200 (look very similar!), Rem 700, Pre-64 Win 70, Ruger M77, Husqvarna 1640 etc.?

I own a .222 CF2 and a PH Midland in .308. The Beeza is by far the superior rifle. The old Mauser style (or is it Springfield?) action of the Parky is tough and reliable but feels extremely agricultural in comparison to the slick action of the BSA which in use I think, is a match for most quality European actions today.
It is a very accurate rifle as well. On the subject of barrel floating, mine is as it left the factory. It shoots repeated 1" groups at 200 yds with 40gr Federal V.shok ammo. The barrel does not float and it hasn't been thread cut. With the performance its giving now I don't dare touch it.
If a good CF2 came up in .308 I'd have it tomorrow.
 
What was the original finish used on the CF2 stocks? Looks like they were varnished to give the gloss look.

Also for the Williams rear guide, what was the height and notch shape of the blade? U or V? And the height of the front sight blade? Any ideas on what type of hood was used?
 
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Well this is one of them:-

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Have just been looking for the spare one I have but cannot find it which is puzzling. Will have to have a more thorough look in daylight. The hood was a the normal BSA one that is also found on their Air Rifles like the Meteor, Mercury and Airsporter.

The front sight blade comes in various heights so it can be changed to suitt he ammunition being used.
 
I need the slider and the blade. Do they sell that combination? I've only seen that as the firesight combo with fiber-optic inserts for contrast.
 
What was the original finish used on the CF2 stocks? Looks like they were varnished to give the gloss look.

Also for the Williams rear guide, what was the height and notch shape of the blade? U or V? And the height of the front sight blade? Any ideas on what type of hood was used?

Yes, the finish is gloss lacquer. Timber is straight grained but looks like it might oil up quite well. I keep threatening to strip it by I use the rifle too much. Mine has a heavy barrel, no iron sights and does not appear ever to have been fitted with them.
 
Yes, the finish is gloss lacquer. Timber is straight grained but looks like it might oil up quite well. I keep threatening to strip it by I use the rifle too much. Mine has a heavy barrel, no iron sights and does not appear ever to have been fitted with them.

Export models were often finished with poly type finish on the wood for the gloss effect which the marketing folks thought was desirable. Some markets they used an oiled finish for, some had blacked bolts, some had blacked bolt handles others the bolts were polished and left in the white.

BSA like Parker-Hale produced a Varmint model with a heavy barrel and no iron sights. Often the barrel is drilled and tapped a few inches forwards of the receiver ring for a front scope mount so that the Unertl, Lyman, Lichert, Redfield and Fecker type long target scope could be used. This type of scope was still so popular in the 1970's that Tasco even made a version they called the Model#707:-

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Now both of my own CF2's have the European stocks and oiled finish and the Williams Guide sights.

Just did a quick search for them on the Williams site and found this under open Sights:-

Please call 1-800-530-9028 to order Open Sights
Sizing, hole spacing and other factors greatly affect which sight you need. Our salespeople can help choose the right sight for your firearm.

There you go give them a call. Tell them it for your BSA CF2 and see what they say.
 
I own a .222 CF2 and a PH Midland in .308. The Beeza is by far the superior rifle. The old Mauser style (or is it Springfield?) action of the Parky is tough and reliable but feels extremely agricultural in comparison to the slick action of the BSA which in use I think, is a match for most quality European actions today.
It is a very accurate rifle as well. On the subject of barrel floating, mine is as it left the factory. It shoots repeated 1" groups at 200 yds with 40gr Federal V.shok ammo. The barrel does not float and it hasn't been thread cut. With the performance its giving now I don't dare touch it.
If a good CF2 came up in .308 I'd have it tomorrow.

Perhaps you might like to phone Joe at Gunshop East Barnet and have a chat with him

http://www.gunshop-eb.co.uk/Centerfiresportingrifles.php

As he has a .308 CF2 listed. I have not been down there for some time, not since I got my P-H 1100 Lwt from him and that's a couple of years ago at least now, so have not seen it but it must be worth a phone call. He is also listing on in 7x64. Have dealt with Joe for many years and in fact he is President of the club I was on the committee of.
 
Perhaps you might like to phone Joe at Gunshop East Barnet and have a chat with him

http://www.gunshop-eb.co.uk/Centerfiresportingrifles.php

As he has a .308 CF2 listed. I have not been down there for some time, not since I got my P-H 1100 Lwt from him and that's a couple of years ago at least now, so have not seen it but it must be worth a phone call. He is also listing on in 7x64. Have dealt with Joe for many years and in fact he is President of the club I was on the committee of.

Thanks for that, I'll give him a try.
 
No problem... tell him J-D's dad told you to phone.. he will know who that is and can moan at me next time I see him or not :D.
 
Ahhh I can hear fingers drumming from here. Can almost see the curtains twitching too............................ I must admit to not being the best person at waiting for new stuff to turn up :drool:.
 
BritHunter, I might need your help in an PH Enfield in the near future. Are you familiar with the Enfields as well as you are with BSA/PH rifles?

Something about the .303 British that any person in the Commonwealth must own. And I love the distinctive sound of the Enfield being cycled.

Mail man is here! I see him outside :)
 
Ahhh do you by chance mean one of these:-

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Supreme No4 conversion. Then there was these:-

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On the left ...No1 Mk111 Std with Monte Carlo butt added by myself to replace the std military one it came with. BSA 1916 action issued to the New Zealand forces.

Centre .......... No1 Mk111 Supreme. Again a BSA 1916 action this time with Australian markings.

On the Right ........... P-H targetised P-14. The barrel had been chopped back in this photo. This was shortly before it was retired due to the barrel being pretty much washed out. The stock is currently on a BSA Model C or D (not sure which due to the condition it was in) that had a new barrel fitted in 2010. The next phase was to get a replacement stock of the proper configuration. These are all gone now :cry: .

Or perhaps one like this:-

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BSA retailed by Wm Powell & Sons of Birmingham.

Any of those similar to what you are considering?

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BSA sporterised P-14 .................. Model E from between 1949-1953.
 
The ejector is a little weak spitting out cartridges (not empty cases), is that normal? I'm used to the fixed ejector on Mausers throwing them out a few feet. Otherwise, other questions are, is the diamond on the grip cap supposed to be white? Mine's black. Also, there are some handling marks and dings here and there, a little chip on the rosewood fore-end cap on the right side. The bolt cycles very smoothly and feeds fine. Rifle is very well balanced for an 8lb gun! Trigger.. wow.. amazing! So light it's incredible, better than my Savage Accu-Trigger. The safety is positive and easy to use. Magazine release functions too.

There's a lot of grease in this gun and some dirt and grime. I'm not sure about the history of this gun, whether it was used and stored away or what. But the mag plate has lots of grease as well as the mag well. Bore is excellent!
 
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Well it seems that a good strip and clean is required. With such muck and grease I would be using an old toothbrush and P-H 009 Nitro solvent. then wipe down with clean cloths or kitchen towels paying particular attention to the bolt face and the extractor and ejector as somehow I expect a lot og gunk there by the look of it.

Oh yes it's of 1982 vintage.

The stock can be cleaned up and made to look much better. The mark your asking what's this looks like a flaw in the walnut that has been filled. A Knott possibly. I seem to recall the diamond in the pistol grip is black on mine as well but cannot check to make sure .................................... sorry about that.

The bolt will look much better for a clean and polish. The bolt handle on mine got dull some years back but a polish with some solvol autosol soon brightened it up again.

The bore too a good clean and de-copper then you can start trying ammunition and finding what it likes and clean as you normally do. It's amazing how many do not clean their rifles properly I expect you will get quite a bit of blue out of that bore.

Once you get the rifle cleaned it will look much better with a light oiling to metal and wood. I see what you meant about the trigger guard and wonder how can someone treat a rifle so?
 
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