Calling all C50 users.

[big ears]

Hi
I’m often having issues with zeroing my C50 and wonder if anyone can help please.
The issue I’ve had is if I start at 25m and then extend to further out the correction seem not to work.
I wonder if it’s because I’m not changing the distance in the menu.
So question is.
I select profile, say A
Dial in 25m and use one shot zero feature. Long press to save.
Retreat to 50m. Do I now change the distance on profile A to 50m or leave it ant 25m and try one shot again?

Cheers for help

BE

 

[Dari]

I am not C50 but Alpex 4K user.

I have to admit that I don’t understand something here.

If you have zeroed your rifle at 25m in to centre, how do you expect that it will be spot on centre at 100m?

Naming your zeroing profile will just tell you, which one you are using. It will not adjust aiming point to compensate for bullet drop according to the distance in profiles name.

Once you have zeroed your rifle at certain distance, you need to know your ballistics to compensate for bullet drop.

There are some digital riflescopes with ballistic calculator which will adjust your aiming point in accordance with ballistic data. But you have to fill some ballistic parameters into menu and measure distance to the target with LRF before each shot. Distance can be also added manually in some cases (some Pulsar non-LRF scopes).



I hope that helps.

 

[big ears]

I am not C50 but Alpex 4K user.

I have to admit that I don’t understand something here.

If you have zeroed your rifle at 25m in to centre, how do you expect that it will be spot on centre at 100m?

Naming your zeroing profile will just tell you, which one you are using. It will not adjust aiming point to compensate for bullet drop according to the distance in profiles name.

Once you have zeroed your rifle at certain distance, you need to know your ballistics to compensate for bullet drop.

There are some digital riflescopes with ballistic calculator which will adjust your aiming point in accordance with ballistic data. But you have to fill some ballistic parameters into menu and measure distance to the target with LRF before each shot. Distance can be also added manually in some cases (some Pulsar non-LRF scopes).



I hope that helps.

Hi not really but thank you.

My bad explanation I’m sure.
If I zero at 25m to make sure I’m in the paper I then want to make it 1” high at 100m. This is about zero at 50m (then out to 100m) so first step is to zero at 50m. When I try the one shot zero at 50m the correction doesn’t work so I’m asking is that because it still is set at 25m in the profile and do I need to “tell” it that the shot was now taken at 50m?

BE

 

[shezza87]

No, you dont need to tell it but if you are re-zeroing at 50m it would make sense to change the distance shown on screen anyway.
One shot zero should work the exact same regardless of distance to the target.

 

[Kevgun]

Take no notice of the 25 metre input, I think its just a starting point for a ballistic calculator, if it was upgraded at some point. Take your bolt out and bore sight it, so that the target which can be seen down the barrel and adjust your cross hairs so that they both align, that should get you on the paper then fine tune from there.

 

[Kevgun]

I zero the ARES360 in 3 shots, it has a section where you are supposed to enter the zeroing range, because it was going to have a ballistic calculator and rangefinder add on, but it never happened, so i ignore the part where it says enter zeroing distance because it has no meaning other than a starting point for a ballistic calculator.

 

[Dari]

OK. This will have to be answered by C50 user, since I never had one in my hands.

Just for reference, the distance in the name of the profile in Alpex 4K LRF is there for user information at what distance the rifle has been zeroed.

I used the same name (A1-100m) when I zeroed the rifle at 70m, to be sure that I am on paper. Then I proceed to 100m with one shot zero. At the end I added 2cm by manually changing value of X axis coordinate.

The name of the profile is still A1-100m.

 

[User100]

The distance that you put in on the Profile A is just a label. The C50 doesn't make any ballistic adjustments if you then change the distance you put in on that label.

So, the main thing is to get it shooting at 1" high at 100m, which is what you want.

Then you need to decide how you want to label that setting. For my set up, I label it 43m, since that is the true near zero. Then I can use Strelok etc with 43m as the zero distance.

So, you have set up the primary distance in the C50 under Profile A.

If you then want to put in a second distance, say at 250m, you have to physically shoot that distance and set x&y to get the impact point you want. Again, you can label it whatever you want but the C50 records the x&y as relative to the primary distance, e.g. x=0, y=+8. The point of this is then if you make any adjustment to your primary distance settings, the second distance impact point will stay the same relative to that for the primary.

I'm sure that doesn't make anything any clearer either...

NB The above is the basic set up. I have not yet bothered to use the ballistic bit of the latest C50 update.

 

[Rutland lad]

Agree with above in general. Zero at 50m but label it ‘Profile A 100’ then re check at 100 and make fine adjustment IN THAT PROFILE. Then exit.

 

[big ears]

Thanks guys.
Not sure what happened as I had a simulation where the one shot of over corrected by twice.
I’m now thinking I may have changed the magnification which I know does alter click values