Can anyone do me a skull mount in north Devon?
- Thread starter Andy_J
- Start date
Any idea what he uses to get them that white??
deerstalker.308
Well-Known Member
Peroxide will achieve that, it’s no dark art
Apparently it is!
I’ve just tried peroxide, and it’s not had much of an effect.
I’m almost certainly doing something wrong…
deerstalker.308
Well-Known Member
The biggest issues with getting long term white without grease being released is to totally degrease the skull in acetone, this takes time and involves chemicals most normal folk won’t have in their garage, but even without doing that standard boil, pressure wash and then (I use) hairdressers peroxide as it’s gloopy and paints on well, ideally then leave it to dry out properly in the sunshine and white is what you get.
deerstalker.308
Well-Known Member
It’s also worth doing a first boil pick clean and then start with fresh clean water and detergent for a second boil, I think a lot of folk just chuck it back in the old water at this point, I hear a lot of folks talking about boiling for the shortest time possible just long enough for meat to peel off, but to release trapped grease generally takes considerably longer (not just at boiling temperatures, but just “hot” for prolonged periods, have a Google about degreasing skulls using hot water baths and washing detergents,
Most likely peroxide.
For my short nose cuts I boil with a bit of dishwashing liquid added, then cover in kitchen roll soaked with 12% peroxide for a couple days which gets them very white.
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deerstalker.308
Well-Known Member
It works if you take your time, on the bigger ones it’s harder as it’s not always easy to submerge the top back of the cranium so if there’s ever a “bad” bit on mine that’s where it will be, roe and munties etc are infinitely easier, albeit swings and roundabouts as the reds are easier and withstand pressure washing much better.
With the hairdressers peroxide, do you just use the paste as is, or do you add an ammonia source?
deerstalker.308
Well-Known Member
This sort of stuff, I boil first to cook meat off, then clean water with either dishwasher tab or washing up liquid in, clean thoroughly then while still wet pain on this stuff and leave it sitting in a bucket or on a tray for however long it requires, sometimes I wash it off after a day, have a look, maybe pressure wash or pick off anything missed (gristle becomes more apparent after peroxide) then reapply and leave if needed before finally washing thoroughly and allowing to dry (sunshine best, in winter I hang them up over a plug in oil radiator to provide marginally quicker drying time.
Cream Peroxide 12% 40Vol
A universal cream peroxide available in various strengths dependant on which colouring and bleaching results you are achieving.Available in 1000ml or 4 litre sizes. For professional use.
www.hairandbeautydepot.com
deerstalker.308
Well-Known Member
Worth also adding, it’s much better to skin and remove eyes and as much brain as possible before cooking, along with any larger chunks of muscle you can be bothered to remove, the cleaner the head to start with the better, this reduces the amount of grease and nastiness in the water and allows for better heating of all nooks and crannies
For getting a skull looking good long term mate the prep work is just as important as the whitening stage. I macerate, degrease until completely gone and then a peroxide bath. Skulls typically take 2-4 months to complete but they stay looking that way for many years and is far superior to boiling. I stopped boiling years ago now.
devon deer stalker
Well-Known Member
I mix the peroxide with climbers chalk, that creates a good gloopy paste that gets in all the nooks and crannies and then leave in the sun for 24 hours, wash off and dry in the sun
Don't read that question too quickly.....
Hi Matt, I met you earlier this year. I’ll PM you for a cost, do you just take from frozen? I have some rotted out skulls and some frozen. I actually don’t mind my skulls being slightly tatty in colour, but some of the antler is soft at the points under velvet… any tips for storage?
Heyup mate, I hope youre well. For best results it's always best to get them to me either fresh or frozen fresh. I happily take heads from any kind of condition though and can still get good results, it just takes a bit more work. You'd be amazed how many people bring me heads that have been rotting in a bucket for weeks and are crawling with maggots
. I also get quite a lot of heads sent to me that were "cleaned" donkeys years ago and get sent to me for a freshen up.Ahhh… so you’ve seen the collection in my garden then
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