Case Head Separation Signs?

Scotty99

Well-Known Member
Hi,

I‘d thought I would tap into the collective reloading wisdom here.

These cases are 30-06 Bremmer cases that have been fired three times. The load is quite hot being 51.0 grns of VIT N150. The cases have stretched a bit and will require a bit of trimming if reloaded again.

My instincts tell me to bin these cases and reload a new once fired batch.

What does everyone think, am I right or jumping too soon?

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Check that your headspace isn't too short, benchmark against a brand new case or factory round if you need to.
 
Bin.

You can clearly see the stress marks just above the head of the cartridge.

A dental pick is a useful tool for stroking the inside length (this is rapidly turning into a Carry On sketch) to feel the damage that indicates case head separation is immanent.
 
I‘m not familiar with Bremmer brass, in fact I‘ve never even heard of it, but any decent case will take more than three firings even with hot loads before the case head will separate.
Any fired case has markings in this position, this is part of the game.
You really need to look or probe into the case to detect incipient case head separation.
 
...any decent case will take more than three firings even with hot loads before the case head will separate.
My experience is that fully FL-sizing to minimum spec size (as recommended in many reloading methods) coupled with firing in a chamber at the larger-end of specification size can indeed cause separation after a couple of firings. In this context, I'm not convinced that the 'hotness' of the load is the main thing - more the difference in length between the unfired case and the chamber.

My remedy was to adjust the setting of the FL die so that the sized cases were a better fit (i.e. longer to the shoulder) in the rifle they were intended for. I did this by stripping the bolt and offering a too-long case (i.e. on which the bolt would close only incompletely); then with a witness-mark on the die and the die set a turn or so above the shell-holder, I serially resized it while moving the die down, until the case allowed the bolt to close with just the slightest feeling of resistance - just enough so the bolt-handle couldn't drop under gravity.
Then, after readjusting the lock-ring on the die, I reserve that die for the specific rifle/shell-holder combination.

I also started using a borescope to check from the inside for incipient thinning of the case-walls - a good method, I think, of early detection: and one I would commend, particularly as electronic borescopes seem to be such good value for money nowadays.
 
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Heads on the two left cases are separating, right case looks like it too.
Shoot again and you'll likely put out a case head with rest of the case left in the chamber. Then you might need to buy a broken case extractor . Such fun.

Cases have been over resized, the shoulders pushed back too far repeatedly.

(Assuming you have a bolt action rifle.)

Solution is to just bump the shoulder back just enough to fit in your rifle's chamber... your rifles chamber is the guage. I unscrew and remove the firing pin/ spring assembly from the bolt. Then slightly resize a case, drop it in the chamber, and feel how hard or easy to cloe the bolt. If hard, turn FL die in 1/16 turn - that's about 0.004" - resize the case again, drop in chamber and see if bolt will close. If it does, done . If not, repeat.

If the bolt closes without effort, the case might be overly resized and the shoulder pushed down too much, leading to head separation.

I personally like to feel a very slight resistance at the end when closing the bolt (without the firing pin/spring). Then set the die and load. Chk a few reloads to make sure the bolt closes (without the firing pin!). I prefer a close fit of case to the chamber.

After firing for the next reloading, repeat the process. Brass elasticity changes (hardens) when fired so the next resizing might not bump the shoulder back the same. This easier than trying to measure that "desired" shoulder/chamber clearance of 0.004" to 0.002", such as using the Hornady guage/tool.

Trimming might be considered a different matter. Since brass flows when firing and resizing, routinely check case length and trim as needed.

The above works for me. Its not the only method that will work but you might give it a try. I reload a 30 Gibbs, a wildcat based on the 30/06 case. The rifle chamber was cut with a custom reamer so the rifle is the best "guage".
 
I'd try sawing one of the suspects in half longitudinally, file the edges clean, then look under magnification for thinning in this region, to positively confirm that this is a problem. The paperclip test is all very well, but can be falsely reassuring. Certainly if you can feel a groove with it, the cases are unsafe.

I agree that, if you are FL sizing you may be pushing the shoulder too far back compared with your rifle's chamber dimension.

Your rifle might even have excessive headspace. If possible ask a gunsmith to check it with go/nogo gauges. If it turns out to have excessive headspace (closes on nogo gauge), consult the gunsmith.

During firing the case obturates and grips the chamber very tightly. The only part that can stretch is that ring just above the case head, which it will do, until the head contacts the bolt face. This thins it out at that ring, and also means the overall case length grows. If frequent trimming is required it is a strong indication that the cases are being "stretched" just above the head.

The more usual case "stretching" requiring only occasional trimming is a different mechanism, where brass flows forwards from elsewhere in the case body.

For this to happen in only three firings is worrying. 30-06 brass should last many firings before head separation warning signs become obvious, like this. Or it could simply be that the brass is of poor quality.

You can check this scientifically using callipers and a body comparator, or, almost equally as well by using a roll of 3M Scotch Magic tape, which is approx. 0.0025" thick.

First measure headspace on an unfired case. Do this by first measuring the case OAL, from the head to the end of the neck.

Then add the tape, one layer at a time, to the case head, chambering the case each time, until the bolt becomes a little stiff to close. You don't need to remove the firing pin unless you are doing this with live rounds, for safety, it doesn't stick out until the rifle is fired. Now measure the case OAL with the layers of tape stuck on the head. The increase in length is the headspace of your unfired cases in your chamber. My suspicion is that this is quite large. Also divide this figure by the number of layers of tape, to "calibrate" the thickness of a single layer of your chosen tape. I do recommend Magic Tape as being very consistent and incompressible.

On first firing the case will stretch, in a ring just above the head, by roughly this amount. You can't avoid this on first firing, but you can reduce it on subsequent firings by adjusting your sizing die so that it only bumps the shoulder back by a minimal amount, say 2-3 thou.

Again, the tape method lets you do this in a controlled way. Back the die out a bit, say half a turn, resize a fired case, test in rifle chamber, it should not fit, stiff or impossible to close bolt. Wind the die in, bit by bit, resizing and testing the case in the rifle each time, until the bolt will close without resistance. Now add 1 layer of tape (2.5 thou, or whatever your "calibrated" tape thickness is). Bolt should still close without resistance. Now add a second layer of tape, i.e. 5 thou total. The bolt should now be stiff to close, if you have got the die set just right. Lock the lock ring (you'll need a locking type, not e.g. the Lee o-ring friction things).

The thread on a die is 14 threads per inch, i.e. 1 turn = 71/1000" 1/8 turn is 9/1000", so the adjustment needed is very fine, but it can be done surprisingly accurately, with a little finesse.

Test all your resized but unloaded cases in the rifle first for function, before loading them up. From now on, all being well, you have got your die set and locked. For your rifle, in your press, with the specific shellholder that you used. Change any of these things and you'll have to at least repeat the tape test, or re-adjust.

Sounds a palaver, but really it isn't.
 
Like what has already been noted, back out the FL die and that will _probably_ solve the issue.

I suppose the hint is to only size to feed reliably, no sticking on the way into the chamber and no more.

See also: Inspect Your Fired Brass to Avoid Catastrophic Case Failures « Daily Bulletin
Zediker discusses the symptoms and stretching but nothing on the "why" of excessive headspace and prevention, at least in that article. I'm familiar with Zediker's writing but don't have his book.
 
Hi,

I‘d thought I would tap into the collective reloading wisdom here.

These cases are 30-06 Bremmer cases that have been fired three times. The load is quite hot being 51.0 grns of VIT N150. The cases have stretched a bit and will require a bit of trimming if reloaded again.

My instincts tell me to bin these cases and reload a new once fired batch.

What does everyone think, am I right or jumping too soon?

View attachment 207140
One of the reasons for reloading is for accuracy. One of the factors is using brass that fits (has been fired in) a particular rifle chamber. Shoulder bump/minimal resizing keeps a close "custom fit" to that chamber with minimal headspace. And reduce case stretching and potential head separation.

The custom fit can be lost with FL resizing, especially with overcamming the press arm, as suggested in instruction guides (like the guide with my RCBS dies).

I have a go guage and a couple comparators. But the rifle chamber and bolt (w/o firing pin spring) is the fastest and easiest way for me to maintain a close case to chamber fit and head space. Keep it simple.
 
I neck size only with my 7x57 and that does a handy job of producing accurate shots (sub MOA at 600yds) while inflicting minimal wear and tear on the cases. I use PPU brass which is quite soft and cheapo, but using this method it stays usable for ages.
 
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