CR2 battery

The No1 App in Europe for Hunting Area Management - MyHunt
I went on evil bay,sorted the brand I fancied and bought a strip they are cheaper,and last longer than buying in pairs at Super markets, and free delivery no problems.

BC.
 
CarlW said:
I just use Duracell CR2s in a few things and they seem to work well.
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I have been using these but only get 6-9 months at best out of them. I personally think there may be a issue with the LFR causing battery to drain faster but sending back to Swarovski isnt an option as out of warranty. The best battery for long life I have found so far is the Tracer from Bushwear but wondered if anything better was out there?
 
I have been unimpressed with Duracells in my LRF binos.

I think the LRF takes a large pulse of current, and even when the cell seems to be OK, after a number of pings it becomes noticeably less able to cleanly range and discriminate when using some of the more sophisticated modes e.g. brush mode, bullseye mode, or continuous ranging. Even though the battery indicator says it is still OK.

I have found that these Panasonic photo batteries hold up much better, they "provide long-lasting, reliable power to your photography equipment, coming recommended by a number of well-known digital camera manufacturers such as Canon, Nikon and Fuji. Although they are the perfect batteries for cameras due their ‘Rapid Flash’ technology"

I think this means that they can better provide bursts of heavy current, for e.g. rapidly cycling camera flashes, or I suppose powerful laser rangefinders.

These things: Panasonic CR2 Lithium Photo Battery | 2 Pack

Plus they cost only £3 for two, plus postage.

My binos take the larger CR123 size which have almost twice the capacity.

These are what I use: Panasonic CR123A Lithium Battery | 1 Pack

"Panasonic CR123A batteries have a low internal resistance, providing fast flash recovery times for digital cameras."
 
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Scandially said:
2X Duracells CR2 £6 from most Supermarkets.
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I have tried these and the Duracell’s simply don’t give longevity. They are poor and a few weeks after replacement of a Duracell battery the reliability of the RF depletes especially in cold winter months. As most of my stalking is in winter and very regular, I was looking for advice other than Duracell.
 
Try removing them after every outing. I have just replace mine in my Leica RF after probably 6y and it was still OK.
 
You can only pack so much chemical energy into a specific size package.
The size of the CR2 battery limits how much chemical energy it can contain.
I don't think you'll find much, if any difference between Duracell and any other brand, although I'd give the Panasonics a try

Cheers

Bruce
 
I think there can be big differences. For example I got a big pack of own-brand CR2032 coin cells from Lidl, which are fine for my 'scope illumination, which is low current, but when I had to replace the cells in my car and van keyfobs (Seat and Fiat) they simply didn't work at any distance. At first I thought the Seat fob was broken so took it to the dealer expecting a very expensive bill for a new one with re-coding. But the dealer just replaced the cell with the branded sort that Seat issue and it sprang back into life. Charged me £10 though, lesson learned.
 
mealiejimmy said:
You can only pack so much chemical energy into a specific size package.
The size of the CR2 battery limits how much chemical energy it can contain.
I don't think you'll find much, if any difference between Duracell and any other brand, although I'd give the Panasonics a try

Cheers

Bruce
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CR2 are typically about 800 mAh. CR123 1400. Big difference, and probably higher peak current as well. Glad my binos. take the CR123, which also power my very bright LED torch, so even when they aren't working so well in the rangefinder they get transferred for torch duty to use the last bit up.
 
Sharpie said:
CR2 are typically about 800 mAh. CR123 1400. Big difference, and probably higher peak current as well. Glad my binos. take the CR123, which also power my very bright LED torch, so even when they aren't working so well in the rangefinder they get transferred for torch duty to use the last bit up.
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A CR2 battery is 15.6mm diameter x 27mm long = 5161 cubic mm volume
A CR123 battery is 17mm diameter x 34mm long = 7718 cubic mm volume
So, a CR123 has about 50% more volume than a CR2 and that's where the difference in capacity comes from
Note that this comparison is only valid for 3 volt non rechargable lithium batteries
3.7 volt Rechargable lithium batteries have lower capacities than the equivalent size non rechargeable batteries
A Panasonic CR123 3 volt non rechargable lithium battery has a capacity of approx 1400 mah
The best 3.7 volt rechargable lithium batteries have capacities around 750-850mah

Cheers

Bruce
 
cjs66 said:
No problem with the Duracell CR2 in my rf bins. In about 4 years mine has been changed once.

cjs
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How often do you use you binoculars and how much are you out in the winter months please? Just wanted a comparison to my usage. It may be mine are faulty and draining the power more than normal

Thanks
 
DEER STALKER said:
How often do you use you binoculars and how much are you out in the winter months please? Just wanted a comparison to my usage. It may be mine are faulty and draining the power more than normal

Thanks
Click to expand...
Recreational stalker, so on average at least once a week all year round. They're Leica if that makes a difference. My mate has the same and he's had no battery problems too.

That's if they are the CR2 and not the CR123? Bruce has got me thinking now...

cjs
 
DEER STALKER said:
Tracer CR2 from Bushwear ordered.
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Deben don't make cells. Hopefully they are decent ones underneath their "Tracer" wrapper. As I said, I have been severely unimpressed with the ubiquitous overpriced Duracell offerings that are so easily available. I'm not sure that they actually make their own lithium primaries.

I prefer to buy cells that are actually made by the manufacturers who put their name on them and tune and grade them according to expected use. Of whom there are not that many. But that's just me.

I would not dream of using a rechargeable version in an expensive LRF that is designed for the 3 V of a primary cell, not the 3.7 V or more of most rechargeables, with lower capacity. For torches certainly, but even with heavy use, particularly target shooting where it also gets lent out a lot, a single decent CR123 can last a year before I notice it not quite having the same edge.

BTW, the military ranges that I usually shoot on, with reactive targets (not the precise gallery ones) often have a wildly inaccurate idea of where the targets actually are according to their crib sheets, likewise informal zeroing ranges as in check zero before a stalk. its 100 yards. or maybe another at 200. Even a gong at 300. Sorry but no. The 100 yard target is only 90 yards. The 200 is 180. That gong is not even 270. Did you just pace it out ? This does make a difference, if you want to be precise.

A very simple thing, set up say a bicycle reflector maybe clipped onto your sticks, at the shooting position, walk out to the target position and range back. You will get a very solid ping from the retroreflector and be able to set things up very precisely. At extreme distances use e.g a big trailer board triangular reflector or even a huge vehicle warning triangle. No ambiguity.
 
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