Fitting a moderator - what are the steps?

I've seen somewhere on the site recently that rifles need re -zeroing after a mod: such as a Wildcat has been taken down for cleaning. I have never done this. Have others had problems with this?
 
Just wondering if I can tap into the huge fund of knowledge here. I am a complete moderator novice but have variations for my .243 and .270. My question is a simple one - can I use the same mod on both rifles? I'm sorry if this seems like a stupid question but I am a deerstalker not a ballistics expert.
 
Paul,

It may depend on the make of the moderator. Now I am fairly new to them myself and have a Wildcat P8. Now with a Wildcat for your application a .25 cal one would do both. I due to a mix up in the shop ended up with a .243 one but it works on the .25-06 and the 6.5x55 but will not allow a .277" bullet to pass through it. As you might have noticed on the forums not all like the Wildcats but it was what was available locally and some replies when asked were a little late coming so I had already purchased it by then. I do like a moderator to be strippable but that's just me.

Edit:-

Oh Oldkeeper I have not noticed it with mine however as we are having issues with the rifle it's normally fitted too liek the POI varying a large amount when a Bi-Pod is used it's not the best test as yet. I have started using it on a 6.5mm rifle but have not needed to strip and cleaned it since doing so so the jury is out.
 
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Hi Paul

I have never had to re-zero my rifle after cleaning any of the strippable A-Tec moderators I use, I cant see any reason why you should have to do so with a Wildcat either.

One moddy for both your 243 and 270 no problem, the Jager Ranger, T8 among others will work just fine, some designs are more tolerant than others though. I have used the same A-Tec moddy on both my 243 and 270 in years gone by.

ATB

Tahr
 
willie_gunn as stated in a previous thread go for the largest thread size your barrel will allow in metric with spigot if possible and go caliber specific,
the more you leave on the barrel at the muzzle the better, recently seen a .308 that had stretched the 1/2unf thread ok the rifle had been shot without mod fitted but it did have a thread cap on it and the gun and mod had been through the proof house,
as your barrel is not stainless you would be looking to remove mod after each outing to avoid unnecessary corrosion issues and you want a mod that will not need the rifle re zeroed every time this is done,
as there are a few out there that cause this problem ,

ASE jet-z are bomb proof although they do add a bit more length than the reflex type mod,
i have recently gone back to the T8's after trying a few strippable mod's just got rid of a wildcat P8 after every couple of shots the end baffle kept on coming loose no matter how tight you made it,
although i do currently use a northstar on a .243 they lack a bit of sound reduction
Do a few searches on other forums plenty of info
 
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One moddy for both your 243 and 270 no problem, the Jager Ranger, T8 among others will work just fine, some designs are more tolerant than others though. I have used the same A-Tec moddy on both my 243 and 270 in years gone by.

Tahr,

Well on the Wildcat P8 a 0.277" bullet will not pass through the baffles so 6.5mm (0.264") is the biggest that can be used. The makers say it's Ok for the .25 cal I didn't bother re-checking about the 6.5mm after all it's only another 0.007". At a later date I will either get a new baffle stack or acquire another moderator. Depends on finances at the time.
 
From personal experience, the most important thing is to be careful who you get to do the screwcutting. Steve Kershaw had to sort mine out after A.N.Other had done a far from satisfactory (and potentially dangerous) job. He was very quick, reasonably priced and happy to talk things through on the phone. The only delay will be with the proofing. I'm still getting to grips with my Northstar, but no complaints so far.
 
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