What recipe do you use for the goulash? I could do with another recipe that the kids enjoy.
That’s such a nice question, because I only have an appreciation for this preparation because my Omi ( that’s German for grandmother) used to cook it regularly for all the little young people , myself included. It’s a thrifty dish made from what is often discarded .
A few more than 2o years ago when I was 21 years old , I realised that it was massively important to learn some of my Omi’s recipes before she died. So, when I went to stay with her for my usual summer factory/ workshop / industrial torture /woodworking/ metalwork holiday trip to Germany ( I was studying industrial design at university in the uk at the time ) I got her to teach me her most classic recipes that she was famous for cooking for all of her grandchildren.
What I learned from her still forms the backbone of my cooking to this day and always will. My Omi died in her sleep , peacefully , a few weeks after I went back to university. I got told of her death just as I was about to walk up onto the stage to be given my BA Hons certificate.
As an apprentice cabinet maker and later a student of industrial design , I worked in an HRH butchers shop boning out lamb carcasses that I’d collected from Highgrove estate with my boss before i went to college in the morning. I also had the privilege of working in 3 different high end private restaurants as a pot washer and general assistant in the evenings / night time , and as a result have seen and eaten food and ingredients that were absolutely amazing. In this time I also assisted some very gifted people such as the late C D Wright.
But, my Omi’s cooking will always remain the golden standard for me. She was never wealthy and worked all her life in service as a nanny, church cleaner and mother of 4 children.
Whenever I cooked with my Omi , she explained to me that anyone can cook with money; but, a good cook can make good food from what they haven’t got.
During the Nazi occupation of Germany, my Omi used to go out at night ( she would have been shot for this if found) and would sweep up the Rye grain that had been put out for the Nazi officer’s chickens and then mill it to bake bread from for her children.
Bottom line is this: fancy sh1t doesn’t interest or impress me, simple honest and humble food does. For me, Really good food comes from using ingredients that you have and can afford. My Omi was the master of that. I shared that recipe of my Omi with C D Wright and she loved it.
It’s very simple, I make my own smoked paprika powder, from ordinary peppers, but if you just buy some smoked paprika powder from Lidl you won’t go wrong ( by the way, smoked paprika powder from Lidl is better than some of the most over priced artisan crap I’ve seen friends buying for 10x the price) and I make my own fresh egg pasta, but some good chunky dried nothing fancy pasta will still be perfect. as I said before, it’s a thrifty preparation that uses not very much, it’s more about technique.
Take a load of venison or wild boar bones ( backbone or neck bones or shin or ribs are perfect a bit if all is better) connective tissues are your gold in this preparation, they will bring so much flavour binding and mouth feel to the dish and a glossy binding with the pasta. Then add some meat trimmings that would otherwise be used for mince, and brown them under a grill or on a fire .
Sweat some onions and garlic and peppers in some fat ( I use smoked wild boar bacon that I make myself but belly bacon is fine) don’t caramelise it, just let it all mingle until the onions are clear.
Put all the bones with the onions and garlic etc into a pressure cooker, a bit of the fat is good to add too, essential, just don’t add too much ( or you can use a slow cooker or casserole dish, but it’s not quite as good , not as fresh tasting) and add tinned tomatoes and a good couple of tablespoons of smoked paprika Powder ( assuming you are making a couple of kg) then a litre of stock ( I make my own from venison bone’s ( in a pressure cooker after having roasted the bones over a bbq or under a grill) add some rosemary thyme and bay and let it cook until you can wipe the bones clean with your fingers, the sauce should not be watery nor should the tomatoes be browned / caramelised . Let it cool a bit, remove the small bones and leave any that you can suck the marrow from. Then add some fresh thyme and garlic and serve with pasta and a garnish of more herbs and hard acidic cheese ; like cheddar or Parmesan or Appenzeller.
Kindest regards Olaf