Ford Ranger MK2 ABS light

[charlieboy-shooter]

Very much appreciate help on the following as a simple job has turned into a right pain in the a----

ABS light constantly on once ignition is turned on and it does not go out.

Had the front off side CV gatior changed by a mechanic. Told ABS light constantly 'on' following his work. So apparently as the Front ABS sensor was open circuit he replaced it. Told me fixed, no ABS light. ( Did not have any ABS light on prior to mechanic's work)

I have only ever seen ABS light constantly on since collecting. He has had the truck back twice but being a Mazda truck ( Ford Badge) it is pre OBD so a OBD reader does not work. The mechanic has washed his hand of it as unable to fix with out the fault codes. told me he has checked the reluctance ring and it is fine and does not have a hair line crack as far as he can see.

I did the following weeks back so from memory.

In the diagnostic plug shorted TBS to Gnd to get the ABS flash code which I think was 13. my understanding 13 is right rear, not front so checked rear sensor = 1.3 k
I have checked all the ABS sensors, The replace one measures in the region of 1.28K ohms all others read 1.3K ohms. Checked rear harness from back seat plug to sensors all sensors read 1.3k
Same flash code of 13.
Checked voltages to plugs 4.2v from memory but all voltages to all plugs was the same (even if voltage mentioned is wrong).
unfortunately since turning the ignition on to measure the voltages at the plugs, when I do the flash code. I now get a series of flashes which may be 1 , 2 , 3 , 4 but has certainly changed from the 13 I believed it to be.
I don't know if I'm correct with this but as the light goes on as soon as the ignition is keyed on. I thought it must be a wiring issue. As if all was well the self check function for the ABS module would turn the light off and if it was the ring the ABS light would come on once driving. I have connected 1.3 K resistor's at all the plugs just to rule out plug to sensor connection issues but light came on as soon as ignition was turned on.
Have removed 60 A ABS module fuse and disconnected the battery. The 20A ABS fuse in the internal fuse box as listed does not have internal connectors so not used.
Have spent hours looking for the pin out from the ABS plug to module but can't find. Was hoping to ring all cabling from plug to sensors to rule out wiring / connector issues.

Any help or advice appreciated as MOT soon

Thanks

 

[Phil fox man]

this won't be much help as it looks like you have covered it all.put some black tape over the light and forget about it .cars are just to complicated for us old fckers.

 

[User00035]

Take it to an auto electrical specialist. Whatever it is they will be able to find it and either fix it or map it out/delete it.

 

[ruger77]

You can buy a Mazda to dl16 adapter should then be able to read codes on a old scanner not DOIP

 

[ruger77]

Had a look on eBay you need a 17 pin to 16 pin lead ,I had one but it’s hiding somewhere

 

[charlieboy-shooter]

You can buy a Mazda to dl16 adapter should then be able to read codes on a old scanner not DOIP

Had a look on eBay you need a 17 pin to 16 pin lead ,I had one but it’s hiding somewhere

Thank you ruger77.

What would be an old scanner a OBD1 ? or ?

I have the lead which I got off the mechanic. He told me he tried various diagnostic tools none of which would work. I witness him connect to one of his systems and it could not connect.

thanks

 

[ruger77]

Thank you ruger77.

What would be an old scanner a OBD1 ? or ?

I have the lead which I got off the mechanic. He told me he tried various diagnostic tools none of which would work. I witness him connect to one of his systems and it could not connect.

thanks

I used to scan the Ranger I had with an old snap on modus

 

[User00035]

As an aside, I had my Ranger remapped last week with a stage 1 tune. (They made an adblue issue go away at the same time...). The remap was worth every penny. So much better to drive now. Smoother, quieter and more responsive with no flat spots. And a very significant improvement in fuel economy. On that alone the remap will pay for itself in about a month.

 

[charlieboy-shooter]

As an aside, I had my Ranger remapped last week with a stage 1 tune. (They made an adblue issue go away at the same time...). The remap was worth every penny. So much better to drive now. Smoother, quieter and more responsive with no flat spots. And a very significant improvement in fuel economy. On that alone the remap will pay for itself in about a month.

Hi Finch,
What year is yours ? I suspect you're Ranger is much newer than mine if you had an ad blue issue. Mine was made in Thailand in 05 although it wasn't registered until 06 so it's Mazda despite the Ford badge. Unfortunately as far as I can tell due to it being classed as a commercial vehicle the OBD 2 standard was not applicable until much later on commercial vehicles.

I used to scan the Ranger I had with an old snap on modus

Trying to get the guys at work to scan the vehicle with IDS VCM tool now I have the lead but all the computers require an update so not working at the moment. Just my luck.
Although they suspect it still may not work due to the age of the vehicle. But at least I will know either way and may we'll have to go down the specialist auto electrician route.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[User00035]

Hi Finch,
What year is yours ? I suspect you're Ranger is much newer than mine if you had an ad blue issue. Mine was made in Thailand in 05 although it wasn't registered until 06 so it's Mazda despite the Ford badge. Unfortunately as far as I can tell due to it being classed as a commercial vehicle the OBD 2 standard was not applicable until much later on commercial vehicles.

Yes, my truck is 2019. OBD II came in in 1999 for private cars. Not sure about commercials but you've obviously looked into it pretty deeply so I'm sure you'll be right. I had a mate who had an '07 Mazda pick-up and he had a lot of trouble diagnosing a fueling fault because of the electronic system.
If you haven't already, I'd advise taking it to a auto electric/mapping specialist. Whatever problem you've got, the chances are they've seen it before on a similar vehicle and will know how to deal with it.
I had an electrical problem with my Ranger (a loom problem, nothing to do with the electronic management system) and I thought the Ford dealer I bought it from would know best how to find it, but they hadn't a clue. they were practically going to take the thing apart from the rear forwards and wiggle wires until they found the fault. Went to an auto-electrics specialist and they found it fairly easily having dealt with similar issues on those vehicles before.
Shame you don't live up here. I could point you to two workshops that specialise in your sort of problem. Be aware that if you use a mobile service you'll probably pay around £100 premium for the call-out.