freelander td4

sir-lamp-alot

Well-Known Member
just a quick one chaps clutch has just gone on my old 307 and im thinking about just scapping it and getting somthing else as to be honest it isnt worth that much and ive just come across a td4 freelander on a 04 plate with 118k on the clock what do owners of these think of them ive heard the petrol models are to be avoided but what about the deisels
 
just a quick one chaps clutch has just gone on my old 307 and im thinking about just scapping it and getting somthing else as to be honest it isnt worth that much and ive just come across a td4 freelander on a 04 plate with 118k on the clock what do owners of these think of them ive heard the petrol models are to be avoided but what about the deisels

Check water ingress into the load area from faulty rear door seal, (nightmare to replace). Open the tool storage area in the load floor and check for water or damp. I could never keep mine dry. Well known design fault. Mine was a Td4 with auto box. Walk away from any petrol ones.
I had a 53 plate from new and did about 80k. before selling. The engine's a BMW unit and gave me no trouble other than a blocked breather somewhere near the injectors
 
As blaven said the rear doors leak like a sieve I drilled holes in my tool storage area as it would be half full of water. Mine had similar mileage and needed new clutch. You'll besurprised where they will go.
 
just a quick one chaps clutch has just gone on my old 307 and im thinking about just scapping it and getting somthing else as to be honest it isnt worth that much and ive just come across a td4 freelander on a 04 plate with 118k on the clock what do owners of these think of them ive heard the petrol models are to be avoided but what about the deisels

Bought mine (TD4) on 97k, Y plate 2001, for £1500 3 years ago - now on 132k apart from service parts I have had to fit a new clutch pedal master cylinder (common 'fault' although one could almost class as a serviceable part as it lasted 110k £119) drivers door central locking unit (£15 off ebay), an abs sensor (£20) and am about to fit a rear near side window wind assembly (£16) - thankfully they now do this as an assembly so you do not have to fiddle around needing 16 fingers to get each bit in place - well worth the extra £7 compared with just the cables and plastic bits.

Did 42mpg when I first bought it, down to 39mpg now.

As per others I have drilled 8mm holes to alleviate the tool box problem - jack is in a plastic tool box inside and not rusting anyway so I live without using it.

I am still on the same set of tyres, which were new when I purchased, but I expect to replace them this summer.

Overall - very reasonable per mile costs with modest off road capability when needed.
 
The Freelander 1 is a great truck, but it has its potential issues. Window regulator cables are mild steel rather than stainless, so this is a known problem. As mentioned, the tailgate seals can leak, but this is most often due to a buildup of crud and a good clean and silicon grease will sort it. If you see a hole drilled through the storage bay floor this was done to empty it of water!

VCUs CAN fail, but it's a couple of hundred quid to replace with a reconditioned one, along with the bearings. Servicing is dead easy, although the TD4 air filter is a sod to get to. Make certain the crankcase breather filter is clean too, as Blaven mentions. The tailgate handle micro-switch can fail too, meaning you can't open the tailgate. There's no internal handle, so the only way to open it is to remove the tailgate trim from inside (I know, I've done it) and release the tailgate lock manually. HDC can have an intermittent issue if the wiring gets damaged, but as this is almost always due to someone messing about with the gear-lever gaiter it's not an inherent fault. Gearboxes have a reputation of being soft, but this is almost certainly due to service intervals being ignored.

The TD4 is the one to go for, but if you find a 1.8 petrol that's had the cylinder head gasket modification done, there's nothing to worry about. It's the same K-series engine that the Rover 214, 216, etc had, and it's a decent enough engine if looked after properly.

My 2004 Td4 went for £2k with 129k on the clock and still drove like new. That was over 4 years ago, and it's still going strong.

All in all, it's a superb truck, with seriously good off-road ability (again, I know. I've done it!)
 
Think I'm right in saying the Td4 is the BMW engine, I had one for 6 yrs, covered 50,000 mls with no probs. Sold it to a mate and it's now on 115,000 still sweet as a nut. Should have kept it really but not an off road vehicle.
Steve.
 
Think I'm right in saying the Td4 is the BMW engine, I had one for 6 yrs, covered 50,000 mls with no probs. Sold it to a mate and it's now on 115,000 still sweet as a nut. Should have kept it really but not an off road vehicle.
Steve.

If it is the same emgine as that used in the Rover 75 then it is indeed a BMW M47 engine in detuned form. The crankcase breather can be an issue as it seems to ahve been missed off the servicing shedule, in the 75 it was, and once they block the engine evacuates it's oil all over the engine and bay. The crankshaft pulley is also prone to failing as it has a damper. A couple of techs worked out a new map for the 75's that takes the engine to 160bhp safely not sure if this wold work on the Freelander. These are discussed fairly often on the MG-Rover forums and i think you will find they have a Landrover section.
 
If it is the same emgine as that used in the Rover 75 then it is indeed a BMW M47 engine in detuned form. The crankcase breather can be an issue as it seems to ahve been missed off the servicing shedule, in the 75 it was, and once they block the engine evacuates it's oil all over the engine and bay. The crankshaft pulley is also prone to failing as it has a damper. A couple of techs worked out a new map for the 75's that takes the engine to 160bhp safely not sure if this wold work on the Freelander. These are discussed fairly often on the MG-Rover forums and i think you will find they have a Landrover section.


Yup. It blows the oil out of the dipstick hole. Leave it long enough and it will contaminate the alternator leading to failure.
 
when I first came to the castle we had one here, but it was soon gone.

about as reliable as a chocolate fire guard with an open fire.

bob.
 
I have a V reg petrol - apart from replacing the usual (pads, shoes, tyres etc) she has done just over 100k now with only the need to replace, wait for it, 2 rubber exhaust hangers....

There but for the grace of God go I, it seems......... :D
 
got a 05 td4 commercial ideal for carry dogs an guns not had any trouble with it an it goes round my grounds winter an summer no probs mrs foxxer got a td4 es again no probs with that either [ touch wood]
 
I can't say enough good things about mine. It's a 52plate td4 commercial done 211k still going strong on same engine and box, brilliant little truck. Just drop the oil and change the oil filter every 8-10k. Get a BMW breather as the landrover ones go. Swap the front and back tyres round when it's starts scrubbing going round corners, and get a set of silicone hoses made as the turbo hose has a habit of splitting. Shame no car manufacturers make a small 4x4 van anymore.
 
Hoses used to be a service item carried by most good motor factors and car spares shops but today it seems everyone expects them to last the lifetime of the vehicle. had to replace the main oultet coolant hose on the MG last year as it started to leak at £50 I thought it was a bit dear but it had to be replaced. Pig of a job to get at but the hose had lasted 16 years. Have replaced a few more since then as aprecation as they are all of the same age.

The nighbour had to have the turbo hose on her Freelander on a 52 plate last year as it split. Her Freelander has been good even though neglected as she does not service it really or have it done she did have the oil and filter changed this time and she travels a fair bit around the country towing a horse box.
 
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