Gun Cabinet Bolts

Luke.243

Well-Known Member
Hi all. Can someone recommend me the best Police compliant bolts to fix my gun cabinet to the wall please.
 
Not sure there are "compliant" bolts as such. You just need to make sure it is properly fixed at all points to the wall. Masonry rawl bolts from places like screwfix will do the job. You want them about 3 inches in my opinion. Suppose it depends exactly what type of masonry you are drilling in to.
 
I used Chem set (something like Fischer P380 resin) and Chemical anchors like Fisher FTR stud - all for sale at you local Toolstation or Screwfix. I am a builder and it is exactly what we use to fix wall plates for new roofs, your cabinet wont be going anywhere unless the wall comes with it! A tube of resin and 4 studs should not set you back much more than £20.
 
Hi all. Can someone recommend me the best Police compliant bolts to fix my gun cabinet to the wall please.

What you really should be considering is not the quality of fixings but rather a "compliant" material/structure to attach the cabinet to. In this regard do not shy from shuttering and pouring concrete to get it right!

K
 
Probably my incompetence but I've never had much luck with expanding bolts of any type. Had great success with chemical/resin fixings and threaded bar though. Those shouldn't be going anywhere soon! You can either buy the proper studs such as these: Fischer FTR M Threaded Stud M12 x 160mm or a length of decent diameter threaded bar and cut to the right lengths (sometimes useful but make sure you can still get nuts and washers on after you've cut the bar - might be worth threading the nuts on before you cut to prevent any burs getting in the way).
 
What chemical fixing do you use? Do you mind putting a link up to it? I'm planning on 're doing mine. You wouldn't be able to move it without some serious tools anyway but not the point lol
 
Probably my incompetence but I've never had much luck with expanding bolts of any type... ).

Ditto. Some fail, the robust ones are often just a quarter turn between "nipped up" and dismantling chunks of brickwork as they over-expand. [perhaps I have been unlucky in my choice of house quality...] What I have found to work an absolute treat is Thunderbolts. The real benefit of these beauts is that you can offer your box up to the wall [I favour a corner where at least one wall is structural/exterior] and whilst you hold it in situ, drill one hole into both the back and side of the cabinet with a steel drill bit [cabinet door open, drilling from inside of box]. Now, follow that up with an appropriate masonry/SDS bit to a depth that matches the Thunderbolt. Torque those two bolts into place. [Thunderbolt threads are an interference fit wrt the hole drilled in brickwork] Cabinet is now locked in place until all other fixings are completed. Now steel drill three or four more holes in back and side of cabinet and repeat process. Thunderbolt - galvanised hex flange head masonry anchor | Unifix
 
Last edited:
your bolt choice is dictated by what you are bolting to you should not use hilti or rawl type fixings in breeze type blocks. After helping numerous friends fix cabinets I would recommend you use 10mm diameter screwed rod with a chemical anchor this is the easiest to secure in most situations do not tighten the nuts until the resin has gone off
 
Concrete screws/bolts have always been my choice for this kind of job, once the correct size hole has been drilled you just screw them into the wall and they cut their own thread and if needed you can unscrew them without any fuss
 
Thunderbolts are great for no nonsense fixings, I fitted around twenty old tyres to a concrete slipway for fender use with them, BUT I would still advise using Chem & stud or Rawl expanders for cabinets.
 
Masonry rawl bolts long enough to go through plaster/board/breeze block with 2.5/3 inches of bite. The FEOs arent structural engineers. They will give a good heave on cabinet to ensure its fixed. Thats it.
 
Back
Top