gun safe mounting

spartan7510

Well-Known Member
Appreciate some advise, just moved home. Usually I anchor my safe to concrete wall with rawlbolts without issues. However in the new house the outside walls are brick (assume single course) followed by cavity and what appears to be a soft ash type breeze block and then the dry-walling on the inside. Anchor bolts would rip the breeze block to pieces (I can drill into it with wood hole saw). Trying to extend past the drywall, breeze block to the outside brick wall would require extensive drilling and Im not comfortable with this option.

I assume the breeze block is considered to be fabric of the building. What can be used to secure the safe to breeze block?
Butterfly bolts?
Or would this work?: Lightning Masonry Bolt M8 x 130mm

Be grateful some tips here.
 
Appreciate some advise, just moved home. Usually I anchor my safe to concrete wall with rawlbolts without issues. However in the new house the outside walls are brick (assume single course) followed by cavity and what appears to be a soft ash type breeze block and then the dry-walling on the inside. Anchor bolts would rip the breeze block to pieces (I can drill into it with wood hole saw). Trying to extend past the drywall, breeze block to the outside brick wall would require extensive drilling and Im not comfortable with this option.

I assume the breeze block is considered to be fabric of the building. What can be used to secure the safe to breeze block?
Butterfly bolts?
Or would this work?: Lightning Masonry Bolt M8 x 130mm

Be grateful some tips here.

I think you know the answer but don't want to do it which is fair enough. Are there any internal piers you could use?
Hard to give people a direct answer with out seeing it also my way would be from an fab engineering potion.
M8 is a bit light in my book but that is me...

Tim.243
 
M12 through the breeze blocks resin anchored into the bricks and epoxy resined back and base solid as .Breeze blocks wont secure anything on their own .
Good luck with that. If you want to cause damp etc by bridging the cavity. The last thing you want anywhere near guns.

Resin anchor some stud into the breeze block. And if you have a concrete floor you can put some into that too.
 
Get some chemfix and then set the bolts into it before it goes off , whats the floor build up ? Some more holes drilled.into the cabinet and if timber floor board use some toggle bolts , of fit a noggin between the joists and screw into that or screw directly into a floor joist depending on which way the joists go ? For some extra support rather than only the wall
 
7 years still dry so must've done something right.

I would do something similar using the outside B/W through the cavity with studding and then spread the area with a steel plate to the soft inner skin then fix the box to that...however this old house I am in is 9" solid also I do lots of metal work so it would just be a normal day of sorts...
Tim.243
 
You can get 130mm rawlplugs with their own screws as a set get them and drill the blocks and insert using a large "penny" washer and the same into the floor if a screed or the bolts you mentioned into joists. It will hold it as good as anything. Burglar will probably have a battery powered angle grinder and cut the door of anyway, and quicker. best of luck.
 
Only thing I would say is that the guidelines specify 10mm bolts. I hate fixing to thermalite type blocks, they're horrible! I'd probably use toggle bolts myself.
 
Thunder bolts is what you want to use, i wouldnt bridge the cavity its there for a reason. The breeze block will hold more than you think. My cabinet is bolted to the concrete floor using 2 thunder bolts, my fao questioned if it would be strong enough i told him it was the same size and amount of bolts holding up the 11ft galv gate outside and he could feel free to jump on the end of it and see what happens. Was more than happy
 
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