Knife sharpening angle

[bri2506]

I’ve got a work sharp knife sharpener and was wondering what people are setting there angle too. I’m only sharpening a mora but seems to get blunt quickly. Can’t figure out if I need more or less angle. I think it’s set at 17

 

[Shootgun]

20 degrees

 

[nic531]

I have a feeling that Mora set theirs to a very small angle, 13 degrees comes to mind but not sure


google is a font of knowledge (possibly)!

Mora knives have a standard blade angle of 27 degrees (13.5 degrees per side) for thicker blades (over 2.5 mm) and 23 degrees (11.5 degrees per side) for thinner blades (up to 2.5 mm), with a Scandi grind that includes a micro bevel for durability. For woodworking and carving, some models may have a Scandi grind zero, which lacks the micro bevel for a more aggressive and delicate edge.

 

[muddy42]

Sorry to be pedantic but a fixed angle sharpener like a work sharp or lansky is not the right sharpener for a mora or a scandi grind. Those sharpeners are great for a flat grind knife, but a scandi should be rubbed on a flat wetstone or sandpaper. The angle doesn't matter, you’re just using the existing profile as a guide.

 

[Haggis Hunter]

20 degrees as well for a couple of Mora knives (on Worksharp). I also have a strop so would strop it after its had a wee bit of use. I don't tend to be too rough with them so the edge seems to last ok. This is about the only way I can get a decent edge on a knife, which frustrates the hell out of me (my general lack of knife sharping skills).
hh

 

[Donkey Basher]

OK, so I’m a pedant, my Worksharp is set to 20 degrees for sharpening my Mora Companion knives - call it a secondary bevel if you like, it works for me.

 

[Jagged77]

I’d sharpen the Mora to 20 degrees a side, I don’t think the scandi grind is particularly well suited to general deer processing and once it gets properly dull or damaged it’s a full scandi resharpen. 20 degrees a side micro bevel can easily be maintained by something like a Sharpmaker or other sharpening systems

 

[bri2506]

20 degrees as well for a couple of Mora knives (on Worksharp). I also have a strop so would strop it after its had a wee bit of use. I don't tend to be too rough with them so the edge seems to last ok. This is about the only way I can get a decent edge on a knife, which frustrates the hell out of me (my general lack of knife sharping skills).
hh

This is why I bought a work sharp knife sharpener. It’s to help me hide my incompetence when it comes to knives sharpening. I darent buy a expensive knife though a good chance of wrecking it

 

[bri2506]

Cheers for reply’s everyone I’ll try at 20 degrees

 

[Scarpa]

Or as an alternative you could reprofile the edge to a partial convex grind using wet and dry paper over a mouse mat. I made a knife from a Fallkniven F1 blank and although the blade is a bit on the thick side it's processed a fair few rabbits and deer over the years. I strop it regularly to keep a nice razor edge and it doesn't seem to blunt quickly.

 

[ukfraser]

I like the tormek trick of colouring the bit you want to sharpen with a sharpie pen so when you put the blade on a wetstone you can see if you are sharpening at the correct angle. But a good strop works wonders.

 

[suburban bushwacker]

Stropping will only polish or enhance a sharp edge.
"there's not bore like a knife bore" Raymond Mears

 

[ukfraser]

Regular stropping helps keep an edge, i strop my axe and knives frequently during use and then again after use. I only need to sharpen with a wet stone about twice a year.

 

[muddy42]

This is the best way i have found to sharpen a mora/scandi. Secure the knife with a magnet held in a vice. Then find a flat piece of metal or korian or even wood that is about an inch wide. Cut a strip of sandpaper, say 150 grit. Press the sandpaper down with the wood on the knife. Use wd40 as lubricant. Find the angle by rocking the wood back and forwards then sand away. I generally just use 150 grit on both sides.

An outdoor gralloching knife needs a good point but doesnt need to be super sharp. It also needs to be robist enough to cut off feet, head and touch a bit of bone. Scandis are ideal for this because of their thick blade and acute angle. Thinner flat grinds are great for indoor butchery.