Labrador Problem -

[Merlyn]

I would be doing the training in a highly controlled environment.
One where he wouldn't have much opportunity to run away.
The recall back to you should already end with the dog going into the sit position in front of you. This is just the basics. Work on this and give a food reward, like a piece of cocktail sausage. This can be done in a hallway or alleyway down the side of the house, free from other distractions and difficult for him to carry on with his game.
You must get the "Upper Hand". Every time you go through a door or gateway, make him sit. You go through first, then call him, make him sit again when he's through. You are the pack leader, not him, you call all the shots.

This! Recall, sit, treat. Every time. Over and over and over and over and over, till he just does it without prompts. By that, I don't mean do it again and again but anytime, anywhere, anywhen.

 

[tgb]

Like some folk have said previously, speak to a professional, maybe get a few lessons and something to work on! Might cost a few quid but will save a lot of time in the long run!

 

[Norfolk Deer Search]

Training a dog is simple repetition and with a lab it’s easy!

 

[sako85708]

It could be a combination of many small things.
Possibly it is just the teenage rebellious stage that the dog might just grow out off.
If ur very confident u had the basics properly installed before he started playing up.
If u are 100% sure ur basics are properly installed it will likely cure itself.

Otherwise a combination of wot foxy, Bo, Dunwater and Vss have said.

The 1 problem at 1yr old will be a bugger to chase down.
Joe Irving the famous spaniel trainer used to say the best thing u can do with a pup is chase it down and catch it.
Then it never learns u can't catch it.
If ur going to chase it down need to pick ur battles and pick a small field/contained area.

But we'll worth going back to the most very basic.
Lots of heel work, stopping when u stop, sitting and letting u go through gates/doors 1st.

If a dog is running circles, try standing in the corner off a field or on a narrow path ( wether fenced or high vegetation. I used to use forestry wheel ruts) so the dog physically can't get past u.

Does it sit/stay?
If so sit it up and walk 100, 200,400m as long as it sits/stays and recall ( when ur in a tight area) it should bomb back too u and can't run circles.
Do it numerous times to get it running hard.
But only if it is recalling when it can't run circles.

Even throw in some high value treats.
Wether chicken smoked sausage etc

Another thing which may work is put the long line on plus ur slip lead, take ur slip lead off.

I seen a few folk mention tiring dogs out.
I'm never a great believer in it.
A its bloody hard to do.
B all ur doing is making u have a fitter dog which is still not trained.

Mental stimulation can be more tiring than physical.
Ideally could do some dummy work or trying to find/hunt hard for scented dummies to tire it physically.
But if not recalling well it probably won't recall well with a dummy either.

At last someone that knows what he's talking about

 

[countrryboy]

Bowland blades said - Its not the Dog ! -

I'd suggest this is likely the case. In my experience the owner inadvertently causes a problem which then compounds with the dog behaving abnormally and getting away with it which is compounded even more by the owners attempts to rectify the problem. End result is a disaster. But...it can be remedied if the right remedial trainer is involved.

As to dog clubs for help...Hmmm...I don't know about you guys around the corner but in Oz I'd run away from dog clubs if seeking specialist help. One on one with a pro trainer is what I'd suggest. Spend the bucks and save the dog.

I'd say for clubs, all depends on the club/trainer.

With my very 1st couple ofd

 

[norma 308]

I would be doing the training in a highly controlled environment.
One where he wouldn't have much opportunity to run away.
The recall back to you should already end with the dog going into the sit position in front of you. This is just the basics. Work on this and give a food reward, like a piece of cocktail sausage. This can be done in a hallway or alleyway down the side of the house, free from other distractions and difficult for him to carry on with his game.
You must get the "Upper Hand". Every time you go through a door or gateway, make him sit. You go through first, then call him, make him sit again when he's through. You are the pack leader, not him, you call all the shots.

Best bit of advice so far
As soon as the backside hits the ground reward but not a treat every time touch is also a reward
For deer work I dont use whistles or voice if I can help it I use hand signals or my displeasure is a low growl or Shish . I didn’t start my deer training until 16 months only then as my old girl sadly passed or it would have been 24 months as the pup was immature she’s still very bouncy until we go work mode ! Slowly slowly sometimes backward then two steps forward