A top quality 9" 2mm blade will make short work of most things, the wall thickness of this pilling rig end is 40mm + the hard face 
@Mickeydredd
@Mickeydredd
Locked gun cabinet removal
- Thread starter Mickeydredd
- Start date
Post some pictures of your safe on here and I bet a member will have the identical safe. If so ask them to kindly provide the lock fixing positions and you can drill the lock fixings out.
Also a quick YouTube search will be of considerable assistance.
I might have a spare set of cabinet locks and keys.
D
Also a quick YouTube search will be of considerable assistance.
I might have a spare set of cabinet locks and keys.
D
There are certain designs of mortise lock key which work for multiple locks.'Fire brigade keys' are one example which open multiple types and there are other skeleton key options. Mortise locks are one of the less secure lock types as there are a relatively low number of possible configurations of keys. Not as bad as filing cabinets/money lock boxes though.
Angle grinder and cut out the locks on the door side. They're only a couple mm steel so will take minutes to cut
enfieldspares
Well-Known Member
I'd asses this in stages.
1) Is the cabinet still "in spec" for s1 and s2 weapons? If not then unless you want it for document storage or for air rifles it might as well be written off. So can be opened or removed with any safe and sane but ultimately destructive method. And if not still "in spec" it may have external hinges that can have their pins knocked out so as to remove the door that way.
2) As others say can it safely be prised off the wall? Which in any case if you do decide to replace it you are going to do. Then when prised off the wall can it be cut open from the back? Allowing you to, if you wish, remove the locks that way and if desired replace them and repair the cabinet by making good and welding back the removed portion from the back? Which portion will of course be protected when the cabinet is bolted back on to a wall.
3) Is the "spec", size and cost of a similar replacement of the cabinet MORE than would be the cost of having a locksmith open it for you and/or provide new keys or new locks? So maybe get a quote?
4) Is the "spec", size and cost of similar replacement such that it is less expensive for a hole or holes can be cut through the door and the locks accessed and door opened and the door then removed as it was designed to be removed. Then i) a new door made or ii) a full face plate welded over the door covering the whole door or iii) fill and refinish the removed section with a welded in piece? The welds then dressed up to become invisible? Just as a car body repairer would do?
Lastly a picture might help you identify the maker and a call to them might yield a beneficial result of a less expensive "fix" such as a new door as mentioned at 4) i)
1) Is the cabinet still "in spec" for s1 and s2 weapons? If not then unless you want it for document storage or for air rifles it might as well be written off. So can be opened or removed with any safe and sane but ultimately destructive method. And if not still "in spec" it may have external hinges that can have their pins knocked out so as to remove the door that way.
2) As others say can it safely be prised off the wall? Which in any case if you do decide to replace it you are going to do. Then when prised off the wall can it be cut open from the back? Allowing you to, if you wish, remove the locks that way and if desired replace them and repair the cabinet by making good and welding back the removed portion from the back? Which portion will of course be protected when the cabinet is bolted back on to a wall.
3) Is the "spec", size and cost of a similar replacement of the cabinet MORE than would be the cost of having a locksmith open it for you and/or provide new keys or new locks? So maybe get a quote?
4) Is the "spec", size and cost of similar replacement such that it is less expensive for a hole or holes can be cut through the door and the locks accessed and door opened and the door then removed as it was designed to be removed. Then i) a new door made or ii) a full face plate welded over the door covering the whole door or iii) fill and refinish the removed section with a welded in piece? The welds then dressed up to become invisible? Just as a car body repairer would do?
Lastly a picture might help you identify the maker and a call to them might yield a beneficial result of a less expensive "fix" such as a new door as mentioned at 4) i)
palmer_mike
Well-Known Member
What do you mean by ‘in spec’?
enfieldspares
Well-Known Member
The accepted specification for gun cabinets changed some good few years back. What was acceptable previous to that now isn't. Yet see the link below regarding "older cabinets". However most police forces nowadays likely demand cabinets that conform to, or exceed, BS7558 (1992).
Firearms security handbook 2020 (accessible)
2.1 The security of firearms, section 1 ammunition and shotguns within a dwelling can in most cases be achieved using a cabinet designed for this purpose. New cabinets should conform to the requirements of BS7558 (1992) (see Annex C for examples on points of construction). The cabinet should be fixed to the structure and located to frustrate attack or identification by persons visiting the premises. Many older cabinets will be built to perfectly satisfactory standards and if satisfactory, need not be replaced.
So if the cabinet has been in the house for some time it may be that it is of a earlier once acceptable construction or design style or pattern that is now not acceptable. So no longer "in spec".
This is why in some auctions you will see a gun cabinet listed as "suitable for air weapons" as some detail such as external style of hinge or metal thickness or position of locks no longer meets the current required specification.
Key Specifications (BS7558)
- Material: Sheet steel, minimum 2mm thick, with continuously welded seams or bent construction.
- Hinges: Internal. If external, use hinge bolts, blocks, or anti-lever bars.
- Locks: Internal, 5-lever locks (BS3621 standard) or high-quality hardened padlocks with staples.
- Ammunition: Store in a separate, lockable container, either attached or integrated, built to the same standard.
- Full-Length Cabinets: Require two locks, one-third and two-thirds up the door.
Last edited:
But there is no legal requirement to have a cabinet at all.The accepted specification for gun cabinets changed some good few years back. What was acceptable previous to that now isn't. Yet see the link below regarding "older cabinets". However most police forces nowadays likely demand cabinets that conform to, or exceed, BS7558 (1992).
Firearms security handbook 2020 (accessible)
www.gov.uk
2.1 The security of firearms, section 1 ammunition and shotguns within a dwelling can in most cases be achieved using a cabinet designed for this purpose. New cabinets should conform to the requirements of BS7558 (1992) (see Annex C for examples on points of construction). The cabinet should be fixed to the structure and located to frustrate attack or identification by persons visiting the premises. Many older cabinets will be built to perfectly satisfactory standards and if satisfactory, need not be replaced.
So if the cabinet has been in the house for some time it may be that it is of a earlier once acceptable construction or design style or pattern that is now not acceptable. So no longer "in spec".
This is why in some auctions you will see a gun cabinet listed as "suitable for air weapons" as some detail such as external style of hinge or metal thickness or position of locks no longer meets the current required specification.
Key Specifications (BS7558)
- Material: Sheet steel, minimum 2mm thick, with continuously welded seams or bent construction.
- Hinges: Internal. If external, use hinge bolts, blocks, or anti-lever bars.
- Locks: Internal, 5-lever locks (BS3621 standard) or high-quality hardened padlocks with staples.
- Ammunition: Store in a separate, lockable container, either attached or integrated, built to the same standard.
- Full-Length Cabinets: Require two locks, one-third and two-thirds up the door.
Other storage solutions are available.
Bavarianbrit
Well-Known Member
Makita do these saws.
Fit a hacksaw blade into it and perhaps you can slide it in the gap on the back surface abutting the wall (if there is one) and saw the bolts off as they are usually near the corners for max holding power.
Fit a hacksaw blade into it and perhaps you can slide it in the gap on the back surface abutting the wall (if there is one) and saw the bolts off as they are usually near the corners for max holding power.
I have one skill! It just so happens to be picking open safes.
I'm useless at everything else.
Sonicdmb73
Well-Known Member
That comment made me think of this.
shakey jake
Well-Known Member
Whats access to the rear like? Id try a pry bar first if access allows, plugs or expansion bolts fail pretty easy, chem fix might be too much
long_range_rob
Well-Known Member
If it’s a bratton sound contacting them can prove helpful. I saw one opened in ten minutes with two bits of bent brazing rod and some knowledge
No access unfortunately
shakey jake
Well-Known Member
What about above? Pry the top off and drop a wedge down?
Disc cutter in a house wont be a fun time
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