Monkey Sticks !!

The stance of the guy in post #2 is perfect. So many people use sticks that are far too short for them and end up relying on their back muscles rather than their skeletal structure for stability. Muscles start to lose strength after 5 seconds, after which the lactic acid builds up and the shakes start. The perfect stance is to be standing up straight and then lean forward slightly to take up the recoil. If you're bending down to look through your scope then your sticks are too short! You should be able to stand on 'point' without getting tired for considerable periods of time when using these sticks as I have had to do many times. Be critical with yourselves guys. You could end up with more deer in the larder!
 
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Very lazily I bought a set of these home made sticks which have turned out to be much too short and very heavy, so on with making my own like I should have done to start with. Couple of questions:
1. why not mount with the rear V behind the face ie right at the back of the stock so as to avoid one side of the rear V bothering you in front of the face?
2. why is it advantageous to grip the front sticks only- not the front part of the stock- I will be shooting a stutzen so I think better off holding the stock?
3. Earlier posts referred to using silicon sealant to reduce noise- I'm not quite sure exactly where they meant to put it?
Thanks
 
Very lazily I bought a set of these home made sticks which have turned out to be much too short and very heavy, so on with making my own like I should have done to start with. Couple of questions:
1. why not mount with the rear V behind the face ie right at the back of the stock so as to avoid one side of the rear V bothering you in front of the face?
2. why is it advantageous to grip the front sticks only- not the front part of the stock- I will be shooting a stutzen so I think better off holding the stock?
3. Earlier posts referred to using silicon sealant to reduce noise- I'm not quite sure exactly where they meant to put it?
Thanks

What I have done is to cut the rear B&Q sticks of mine a lot shorter than the fronts, the shortened rears sit in the wrist part of my stock.

I don't use a width cord but only a front to back cord, my reason for not using a width cord is I quite often open them very wide allowing me to bring the gun around flat. Then I bring the gun up to shooting height.


If you watch a lot of videos of people putting there guns on sticks then the muzzle is often pointing up 30-40 degs

Tim.243
 
Hey MS this is the best thread ever on how to make quad sticks!
A friend made one mod' to enclose the bases in rubber cycle inner tube instead of using bolts to make them a tad quieter and he carries them with a finger in between to stop any clacking. I've found that crinkly camo tape works pretty well to quieten em down
A BIG thanks for your ace step by step instructions. As I lost my first set somewhere during a senior moment, am about to make a second set!!! K
 
I use quad sticks for 2 years now and they are brilliant. My first pair were bamboo canes, but since a few months I have them made from the green garden canes.

My last buck took me 45 minutes to get a shot, standing and waiting for the buck to show and have a back stop. all the time I had the rifle ready and aimed. As the rifle is so steady on the sticks the shot over 160 yards was no problem.

I'm so hooked,
Hans
 
Great thread - I made some then pimped mine a bit when I spotted some u section 20mmx20mm alloy in b&q so I cut a section of this shortened the front sticks and set the ends in this a bit of pipe insulation and camo tape over and it's done so I now have a flat front rest and the normal V for rear - means I can move the front end either way an in ch or two without moving the sticks - this has been named the crutch version by "friends"

dry powder

richard
 
Fishpond could you post a pic or two so we can better see what you made?
I forgot to mention that my mate's version had no need for a cord between the tops because the inner tube rubber around the bases gives enough tension for the tops to part naturally far enough to fit the required working length of the rifle.
Simplicity of construction and its rapid deployment seems to be the key! K
 
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Here you go this is part way through construction I cut 15cm of the 20x20mm U section drilled two 6mm holes in the middle 35 mm apart centre to centre and then inserted some 6mm diameter aluminium tube and cut it to length - they are in place in the photo (you could use the normal 5mm threaded bolts which you can use to join the sticks - see bottom edge of lhs photo) but I figured this would be smoother and allow me to use smaller bolts to fix it together and less likely to undo. So then I glued some 12-14mm wooden dowel inserted 3" in the open end of the garden canes with gorilla glue so that it was stronger to drill through - once set I drilled 6mm holes centred about 1cm from end of the top of the sticks - rounded the ends of the drilled sticks with a file or disc grinder then align holes with those in the U section, insert aluminium tubes to fix the ends of the sticks into the U section and fixed in place with some 3.5 mm threaded bolts, washers and nylock nuts check the sticks can open as required at this point - further filing may be retired- cut off the excess bolts and file smooth then bit of heat shrink tube over the ends of the U section followed by pipe insulation fixed with insulating tape then camo tape over the top. The U section shown is a reject as you can see I didn't drill the holes accurately and the result is the tubes which will go through the top of the sticks arent parallel! It's a lot easier to do than write it��
 

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ARRGGHHH! JIM LAD!nice one well done,,,,i,m only joking i would be tempted to get a little blow up parrot and priming bulb.;)as long as it works mate thats all that matters,,atb doug,
 
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Here you go this is part way through construction I cut 15cm of the 20x20mm U section drilled two 6mm holes in the middle 35 mm apart centre to centre and then inserted some 6mm diameter aluminium tube and cut it to length - they are in place in the photo (you could use the normal 5mm threaded bolts which you can use to join the sticks - see bottom edge of lhs photo) but I figured this would be smoother and allow me to use smaller bolts to fix it together and less likely to undo. So then I glued some 12-14mm wooden dowel inserted 3" in the open end of the garden canes with gorilla glue so that it was stronger to drill through - once set I drilled 6mm holes centred about 1cm from end of the top of the sticks - rounded the ends of the drilled sticks with a file or disc grinder then align holes with those in the U section, insert aluminium tubes to fix the ends of the sticks into the U section and fixed in place with some 3.5 mm threaded bolts, washers and nylock nuts check the sticks can open as required at this point - further filing may be retired- cut off the excess bolts and file smooth then bit of heat shrink tube over the ends of the U section followed by pipe insulation fixed with insulating tape then camo tape over the top. The U section shown is a reject as you can see I didn't drill the holes accurately and the result is the tubes which will go through the top of the sticks arent parallel! It's a lot easier to do than write it��
OMG! Illegal modifications!:shock:
That actually looks really good and I'm going to try it for myself.
We'll just have to rename them 'Monkey Fish' Sticks!:lol:
MS:thumb:
 
No they will always be monkey sticks to me - what you can't see is that I tried to put a lip on each end of the flat front piece by sticking a wedge of the dowel under the shrink tube but it's easier to do this by compressing the foam pipe insulation with the insulating tape before the camo tape over the top. Forgot to mention the u section came from B&q and they also sell the tubing. If i made another set I might increase the distance between where the tops of the sticks are joined as it would increase stability I think.

Richard
 
Excellent instructions. Made them last night in under 1 hour with bike inner tube. Testing them today.

Thanks MS.
 
i have a variation on a theme i do not use the metal/plastic coated sticks but the solid plastic ones they are the same price i also do not use the string to secure them i got four exhaust hanging rubbers from the garage these offer you a lot more flexibility in use and only require a bit of washing up liquid to enable them to slide in to place i also use a army green bungee to keep the sticks from falling away in use and for securing whilst carrying
 
Just made a pair of these this afternoon. Need to experiment with sizes and getting set up but they're rock solid when aiming.

Thanks MS for the guide :)
 
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