Most practical field knife?

carthorse

Well-Known Member
Just wondering on knives for the field. I have loads, some cheap some expensive, I have a lovely Sog but it doesn’t hold an edge very long, have a one of those flip jobs with blade one end and safe gut blade the other can’t get on with it in the field with cold hands and low light keeps the edge well, probably down to lack of use, have a good mid range sheaf knife it’s an Elk, but it’s a bit difficult on opening up the carcass, and suggested knives or experience with a good all round field knife.
I found a brilliant knife I use in my larder great for skinning and general work, in morrisons and cost a princely sum of £6.
 
Try your Morrison's GP knife out in the field. Agree with @VSS I have a 110 and 112 which are both really good tools. I use a Swingblade for gralloching, hocking and skinning at times but find the blade too deep for work around the A'hole.
 
I use a fallkniven f2z. It’s great but the handle is too narrow and the blade a bit long. Awesome otherwise. They do a smaller one made for women that I keep meaning to buy. It might be the one.
 
The best value stalking knife Comes without a sheath , its the Victorinox 5" straight blade boning knife 5.6003.12 . I keep some in stock for larder work , what they lack is a sheath of real use in deerstalking , I make these in kydex though and they will last longer than the knife .
Downsides is the softer steel is easy to touch up ( due to its soft blade ) on a steel ( however a steel is near useless) on the knives i make they are just not going to touch the high hardness blades that run 62-63 RC
Is a Harder knife better ? Yes in the field it is the field it is ! But unless you really know what your doing with stones etc you will struggle unless you get it back to me that is ! For a Skilled stalker who hasn't had a mishap i expect over 100 mixed species of deer, often its more Just with a hard backed leather strop and if you can butter your sandwich you have the basics already .
 

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Try your Morrison's GP knife out in the field. Agree with @VSS I have a 110 and 112 which are both really good tools. I use a Swingblade for gralloching, hocking and skinning at times but find the blade too deep for work around the A'hole.
I may try and find a sheaf that my Morrisons £6 kitchen knife fits in and give it a go, at £6 a go I wouldn’t spend long looking for it it it goes missing. Sound very tight, but if it works then it’s all good!
 
Mora, EKA Swingblade get my vote, or do as I did, make your own.
If a leather sheath is required I have a friend who does some stunning work, pm see if you want his details as he is not on this forum
Cheers
Richard
 
Finnish Leuku for me - went to see the Northern Lights a few years ago and found a man making them locally and selling in the fuel station. Holds a savage edge, gives me the willies. Love the palm swell and it is a "wieldy" knife in and around the carcass. Also a big fan of the outdoor edge 3" razor cape (Cyclaire Knives) - I keep a gut hook on that (@ 80 deer in the last year and no appreciable loss of edge) for opening but can switch out for a traditional blade if needed. Bought that in the States then got back and realised that the 3" wasn't over here. I rang Cyclaire and they imported them for me with their next order - took 10 days. Really helpful. As it hasn't blunted after the last year, I suspect that the stock of blades I bought will outlast me and the handle.
Outdoor Edge flip'n'zip saw for the chest.
Outdoor Edge knives often have blaze orange on the handle, so less chance of forgetting/losing them when packing up. Easy to clean as well. Never put a knife you like in a dish-washer!
 
For roe, buck folder in your pocket

Same for sika and reds, except it’s nice to have a mora type knife for removing head and legs that kill your main gralloching knives edge
 
For roe, buck folder in your pocket

Same for sika and reds, except it’s nice to have a mora type knife for removing head and legs that kill your main gralloching knives edge
better still over a Mora ( the mora has no flex and it thick in section) is the victorinox 5.6003.12 Cheap " thin section" and a fairly low hardness ( meaning rarely chips ) Its made as a commercial boning knife . Mora are ok but they are not flexible and so chip on bone.
I promise all that these knives are actually made for the job . I don't make them or distribute them BTW but i do offer kydex sheaths for safe carry and of course you can wash the sheath out in soapy water .
I know there are hard plastic sheaths available from various Butchers supplies though they are more ideal for in larder use than field protection
 
Just wondering on knives for the field. I have loads, some cheap some expensive, I have a lovely Sog but it doesn’t hold an edge very long, have a one of those flip jobs with blade one end and safe gut blade the other can’t get on with it in the field with cold hands and low light keeps the edge well, probably down to lack of use, have a good mid range sheaf knife it’s an Elk, but it’s a bit difficult on opening up the carcass, and suggested knives or experience with a good all round field knife.
I found a brilliant knife I use in my larder great for skinning and general work, in morrisons and cost a princely sum of £6.
Funnily enough I have a few different knives myself. My lad bought himself some fancy ones. I made myself one, but it is more for show having an antler handle.
But the ones that are most used in and out of the larder are Victorinox, and various other brands of butchers boning knives.
A mate who culls a lot of farmed/park deer gave me a load of worn (but not worn out) knives and I simply put an edge back on them.
If you want to store them safely with little effort you can use some PVC waste pipe and a heat gun. To make a suitable “sheath” for a boning knife or two.
 
Its a great shape, but a mile too thick in the blade - unless you are planning to build a dugout canoe or something in your down time.
I use my PHK for all gralloching and also for skinning / carcass breakdown (I use a flexi boner (!) for the fine butchery)

It’s a great knife and I don’t really notice the think blade, other than when it’s sharpening time as you need to use a fairly steep angle of 30-35 degrees but it will go shaving sharp with ease - never going to snap it tho!!
 
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