My first reloading kit

[ahenry34]

I've been looking for a .22 Creedmoor for a while, they are really selling out in the US, are you looking to shoot around 70 grain bullets for long range? What rifle did you get?

As others commented for reloading I would consider used main equipment (press, powder scale / thrower, hand primer). I would buy new dies and a new case guage. I'm shocked to see the cost of brass and components here in the UK.

I would recommend trying a number of bullets to find what seems to work best in your rifle as well as to develop your load, powder weight and bullet seating depth. If you have friends that reload, don't be shy about learning the process and what may give you the best result.

Everyone I talk to says barrel life is going to be a real issue but I still want to get my hands on a .22 Creedmoor. I met the guys from Horizon Firearms that developed the round, they are selling very nice rifles but they are a little expensive. I am looking for a Ruger Gen II American Predator rifle which are priced at around $650 but are just not available.

I've been reloading for 40 years, I've taught a lot of people but once you find a great load stick with it.

Yes I also got on to Viking arms the uk distribution agent for Ruger to see if they could get me a 22CM but sadly no plans to bring it to the UK and Horizon has no presence here either

I went with a full customer stainless barrel 1:7 twit and 22 inch long bases on a Howa 1500
Chambered in 22:250

Planning on shootings the Hornady 80g ELD-X as this is the projectile used by Horizon in the U.S

Few guys on here have posted there loads so will likely work from there as a base

Barrel like is scientifically proven to be better either with heavier projectiles

A lot of people go for the 3500+fps using RS60 but I will be using either Rs62 or rs70 as I would really like to see 1500+ rounds though this rifle.

Plan to loading in batches of 100 and taking base to Ogive measurements every 100 rounds to measure throat erosion over that time. Will share all the data in a year or so once I’ve cooked the barrel

Have went ahead and ordered everything from Reloading Solutions. Went for a single stage press. Digital powder measure, LE Wilson trimmer and RCBS match dies

Will be on the hunt this week for some 243 brass to resize trim and tumble for the first range trim

 

[25 Sharps]

Yes I also got on to Viking arms the uk distribution agent for Ruger to see if they could get me a 22CM but sadly no plans to bring it to the UK and Horizon has no presence here either

I went with a full customer stainless barrel 1:7 twit and 22 inch long bases on a Howa 1500
Chambered in 22:250

Planning on shootings the Hornady 80g ELD-X as this is the projectile used by Horizon in the U.S

Few guys on here have posted there loads so will likely work from there as a base

Barrel like is scientifically proven to be better either with heavier projectiles

A lot of people go for the 3500+fps using RS60 but I will be using either Rs62 or rs70 as I would really like to see 1500+ rounds though this rifle.

Plan to loading in batches of 100 and taking base to Ogive measurements every 100 rounds to measure throat erosion over that time. Will share all the data in a year or so once I’ve cooked the barrel

Have went ahead and ordered everything from Reloading Solutions. Went for a single stage press. Digital powder measure, LE Wilson trimmer and RCBS match dies

Will be on the hunt this week for some 243 brass to resize trim and tumble for the first range trim

Why use .243 brass, why not just neck down 6 mm creedmoor brass?

I made a fair amount of 6.5 creedmoor brass from .243 when 6.5 brass was expensive and in short supply. Trimming is a pain in the ass and if you use quality brass it’s too thick in the shoulder area and you lose cases due to dimpling on the shoulder, thin American brass formed much more effectively.

Much simpler to neck down 6 or even 6.5 creedmoor to .22 creedmoor.

 

[ahenry34]

Why use .243 brass, why not just neck down 6 mm creedmoor brass?

I made a fair amount of 6.5 creedmoor brass from .243 when 6.5 brass was expensive and in short supply. Trimming is a pain in the ass and if you use quality brass it’s too thick in the shoulder area and you lose cases due to dimpling on the shoulder, thin American brass formed much more effectively.

Much simpler to neck down 6 or even 6.5 creedmoor to .22 creedmoor.

Yes your correct I assumed that 243 was th same case dimensions but 6.5cm is in fact identical and I have a few hundred rounds of once fired Norma so I will neck it down.

Will check neck thickness and may decide to turn the necks after if any issue with concentricity

I have enough brass to make it make sense over buying alpha or Patterson brass

 

[25 Sharps]

He’s your correct I assumed that 243 was th same case dimensions but 6.5cm is in fact identical and I have a few hundred rounds of once fired Norma so I will neck it down.

Will case neck thickness and may decide to turn the necks after if any issue with concentricity

I have enough brass to make it make sense over buying alpha or Patterson brass

No, it’s shorter so you have to trim back and brass that was formerly shoulder on the .243 case becomes the neck, body brass becomes the shoulder, if that makes sense. It works but it is a faff.

With the creedmoor brass run it through your .22 sizing die and you’re away. You may need to neck turn if you’re after every last drop of consistency but probably not needed.

 

[MTheaded but happy]

No, it’s shorter so you have to trim back and brass that was formerly shoulder on the .243 case becomes the neck, body brass becomes the shoulder, if that makes sense. It works but it is a faff.

With the creedmoor brass run it through your .22 sizing die and you’re away. You may need to neck turn if you’re after every last drop of consistency but probably not needed.

Have you done this yourself?

 

[25 Sharps]

Have you done this yourself?

No, but I have formed 6.5 creedmoor from .243 and .308, 25-45 from 0.223 and .280 from 0.270 so have half an idea on forming cartridges, the only issue that may arise for the OP is the necks may be a little thicker than required but as he has already mentioned neck turning he already has that covered. Annealing beforehand is a good idea for maintaining brass longevity but not essential.

If the OP was buying new brass forming from 6 mm creedmoor would be a better option as it is less of a reduction but as he already has the 6.5 brass it makes sense to use that.

 

[MTheaded but happy]

No, but I have formed 6.5 creedmoor from .243 and .308, 25-45 from 0.223 and .280 from 0.270 so have half an idea on forming cartridges, the only issue that may arise for the OP is the necks may be a little thicker than required but as he has already mentioned neck turning he already has that covered. Annealing beforehand is a good idea for maintaining brass longevity but not essential.

If the OP was buying new brass forming from 6 mm creedmoor would be a better option as it is less of a reduction but as he already has the 6.5 brass it makes sense to use that.

Forming 22 Creedmoor out of 243 brass would be a false economy . It requires fireforming . By time you've fire formed 100 cases , you've used , possibly , 10% of your barrel life along with all the consumables. A decent barrel is now in excess of a grand , so that 10% represents a little over a £100.

There's decent brass to be had , I'm using Gunworks, which is rebranded ADG . Yes , at £170 /100 it's expensive , but then all brass is .

 

[25 Sharps]

Forming 22 Creedmoor out of 243 brass would be a false economy . It requires fireforming . By time you've fire formed 100 cases , you've used , possibly , 10% of your barrel life along with all the consumables. A decent barrel is now in excess of a grand , so that 10% represents a little over a £100.

There's decent brass to be had , I'm using Gunworks, which is rebranded ADG . Yes , at £170 /100 it's expensive , but then all brass is .

There is only minimal fire forming as the FL die forms and sets the shoulder so it is just blowing the case walls out straight. You can use a very soft load for doing this so barrel wear is far less than it would be with a full house creedmoor load. And, I was doing this when consumables were cheap, think I was paying around 12p for S&B FMJ, 2p for murom primers and £35/lb for powder.

Now that creedmoor brass is more readily available it really doesn’t make sense. But necking down 6.5 to .22 does if you already have the brass.

 

[MTheaded but happy]

There is only minimal fire forming as the FL die forms and sets the shoulder so it is just blowing the case walls out straight. You can use a very soft load for doing this so barrel wear is far less than it would be with a full house creedmoor load. And, I was doing this when consumables were cheap, think I was paying around 12p for S&B FMJ, 2p for murom primers and £35/lb for powder.

Now that creedmoor brass is more readily available it really doesn’t make sense. But necking down 6.5 to .22 does if you already have the brass.

Necking down 6 or 6.5 to 22 would make more sense . High probability that the 6.5 would require turning.

I would wager that 243 to 22 Creedmoor would be more hassle than it's worth . It'll require 2 passes through the die , which in turn will push the thick brass from the shoulder into the neck . Increasing the risk of doughnuts. At factory length the 80 grain ELD is into the neck shoulder junction. It will require annealing and a high possibility of requiring neck turning. Then fireforming. =
243 brass =£ ?
Powder = £20
Bullets = £30
Primers - £15
Barrel - £70
To me , it makes no practical or financial sense even when using conservative costings .
Believe me when I say ' there was a lot of homework before I had mine built ."

M advice would be to buy 22Creed brass to start with .

 

[25 Sharps]

Necking down 6 or 6.5 to 22 would make more sense . High probability that the 6.5 would require turning.

I would wager that 243 to 22 Creedmoor would be more hassle than it's worth . It'll require 2 passes through the die , which in turn will push the thick brass from the shoulder into the neck . Increasing the risk of doughnuts. At factory length the 80 grain ELD is into the neck shoulder junction. It will require annealing and a high possibility of requiring neck turning. Then fireforming. =
243 brass =£ ?
Powder = £20
Bullets = £30
Primers - £15
Barrel - £70
To me , it makes no practical or financial sense even when using conservative costings .
Believe me when I say ' there was a lot of homework before I had mine built ."

M advice would be to buy 22Creed brass to start with .

I think you’re either missing half my post or agreeing with me, I advised the OP against forming .243 to .22 creedmoor and advised using 6.5 or preferably 6 mm creedmoor.

So not really sure why you keep telling me using .243 does not make sense - that is exactly what all my posts have said - without the need for the costings.

As above, when I first got a 6.5 creedmoor and brass was hard to come by, a lot of people were forming 22-250 or .243. At the time I was forming for around 30p a round, the brass was free from mates with .243s. The formed brass was being used at night when there was a good chance of losing a case in long grass or crops and you didn’t want to be hanging round or flashing torches about looking for it. So in this situation I chose not to use the expensive Lapua brass I used for target in the same rifle. Very much made sense for the time and the intended usage, makes absolutely no sense now!

That said I still have in use some of those cases today so I’ve definitely had my money’s worth out of them.

But, for the OP forming .22 creedmoor out of .243 makes zero sense which is why I suggested he doesn’t do it!

 

[MTheaded but happy]

I think you’re either missing half my post or agreeing with me, I advised the OP against forming .243 to .22 creedmoor and advised using 6.5 or preferably 6 mm creedmoor.

So not really sure why you keep telling me using .243 does not make sense - that is exactly what all my posts have said - without the need for the costings.

As above, when I first got a 6.5 creedmoor and brass was hard to come by, a lot of people were forming 22-250 or .243. At the time I was forming for around 30p a round, the brass was free from mates with .243s. The formed brass was being used at night when there was a good chance of losing a case in long grass or crops and you didn’t want to be hanging round or flashing torches about looking for it. So in this situation I chose not to use the expensive Lapua brass I used for target in the same rifle. Very much made sense for the time and the intended usage, makes absolutely no sense now!

That said I still have in use some of those cases today so I’ve definitely had my money’s worth out of them.

But, for the OP forming .22 creedmoor out of .243 makes zero sense which is why I suggested he doesn’t do it!

Agreeing, if you're advising against. But that wasn't clear in your post , #24 .
Crossed wires .

 

[25 Sharps]

Agreeing, if you're advising against. But that wasn't clear in your post , #24 .
Crossed wires .

Fair one, you probably missed post #22 in that case

 

[MTheaded but happy]

Fair one, you probably missed post #22 in that case

Nope , missed the point and I've used this week's allocation of words .

 

[UpNorthMI]

Forming brass seems a lot of work, I'm lucky and have access to the US suppliers, Midway sell brand new Hornady brass in .22 Creedmoor for $81.99 about £61 for 100 cases. Someone's making some money on the UK market! Maybe my next trip should be a suitcase full of .22 Creedmoor brass .... lol

New Hornady match ammo 80 grain is $2.20 a round, I estimate the US cost to reload using new brass is about $1.80 a round, if I can get my hands on a new rifle I will just buy 300 rounds to begin with. Off to search the rifle listings!

Good luck with forming and sorting out ammo,

 

[25 Sharps]

Forming brass seems a lot of work, I'm lucky and have access to the US suppliers, Midway sell brand new Hornady brass in .22 Creedmoor for $81.99 about £61 for 100 cases. Someone's making some money on the UK market! Maybe my next trip should be a suitcase full of .22 Creedmoor brass .... lol

New Hornady match ammo 80 grain is $2.20 a round, I estimate the US cost to reload using new brass is about $1.80 a round, if I can get my hands on a new rifle I will just buy 300 rounds to begin with. Off to search the rifle listings!

Good luck with forming and sorting out ammo,

The only issue with that is Hornady brass is generally crap.

Forming a different cartridge from another cartridge is a faff, I do it in .280 as once fired Norma .270 can be had for around £30/100, decent .280 brass is around £150/100 and hard to get hold of. It’s a case of annealing, necking up to .308 then necking back down to .284 leaving a false shoulder at the correct headspace for .280 (about 15 thou further forward than .270). If you don’t do this the cases stretch too much at the base on fireforming. My forming load shoots to a very similar point of impact to my copper stalking load and reliably under 1 moa meaning I can use the forming load for hunting or target and it’s not wasted. Similar process for the 25-45 to get correct headspace in my rifle- though it should be a case of necking up. Again the fire forming load shoots to similar POI and I use it for target, I have a sporting rifle comp with my club at Bisley Sunday and I’ll shoot that with the fireforming load.

The .22 creedmoor was being wildcatted before Hornady launched it, by necking down other creedmoor brass, as detailed above, it really is simple.