Rusty Gate
Well-Known Member
Poor fit, send both back. That’s how products get recalled or updated.
I was curious about these but now mind made up
I was curious about these but now mind made up
One shot zero my arse!
- Thread starter Smellydog
- Start date
Smellydog
Well-Known Member
So, I'm about to go zero, new question!
Now it's a light set up, do I use the mod again?
I'm going to give it a go.
Tangent question.
Rather than remove the mod every time, what if the mod and muzzle get a squirt of light oil and a quick rod with a mop from the breech?
Now it's a light set up, do I use the mod again?
I'm going to give it a go.
Tangent question.
Rather than remove the mod every time, what if the mod and muzzle get a squirt of light oil and a quick rod with a mop from the breech?
Got my Zulus a few days ago, I like the unit, seems well made. The instructions and information you get with it however are hard work to say the least! As has been mentioned previously, they cost a bit and there has been thought put into the unit itself. So how about putting a little more effort into the information and instructions.
If the fog lifts today i am hoping to try zeroing - mounted it on a rim fire for bunnies. However, just about to check if it has mounted properly before i try the zero!!!
If the fog lifts today i am hoping to try zeroing - mounted it on a rim fire for bunnies. However, just about to check if it has mounted properly before i try the zero!!!
Smellydog
Well-Known Member
So, it's sorted. All zeroed ( still took numerous shots) and the reticle is centered, bit high but centered and just looks better.
I also test five reloads and all good there.
I'm no target shot by the way ignore the flyer.
I'm quite happy now. I've made the shortcoming right and everything is solid.
Now the long term field testing can commence.
I also test five reloads and all good there.
I'm no target shot by the way ignore the flyer.
I'm quite happy now. I've made the shortcoming right and everything is solid.
Now the long term field testing can commence.
Off you go again trying to belittle people
Haven’t you learned your lesson yet with a ban from the airgun forum
Getting banned from the airgun forum just highlights the difference in attitudes of the moderators on here where robust discussion is allowed compared to the snowflakes over there
Also, my comment to overlay was truthful - he doesn't own, nor has used a Zulus.
Therefore his opinion is uninformed.
He, of course, like everyone else, is entitled to his opinion and I am entitled to express my opinions on his lack of knowledge and experience of the product he is slagging off
Cheers
Bruce
Also, my comment to overlay was truthful - he doesn't own, nor has used a Zulus.
Therefore his opinion is uninformed.
He, of course, like everyone else, is entitled to his opinion and I am entitled to express my opinions on his lack of knowledge and experience of the product he is slagging off
Cheers
Bruce
Overlay
Well-Known Member
Bruce
I’m certainly not uninformed, an SD member and others on here stated the sight couldn't be fitted to shoot a group out of the box my statement was that WHY would anyone buy a scope that isn’t fit for purpose.
Ohh just shim, alter the reticule blah blah blah - it was not fit for purpose. And needed work , it was brand spanking new.
I’ve always held you as I thought a non bias Nv guru but not so sure now, I don’t know a lot about NV but I do know about common sense and buying sub standard kit.
Your coming across as an influencer rather than as previously thought - a brilliant help to people with NV problems
I haven't slagged anyone off just following up on the statements of inferior equipment from other peoples mis fortune of having purchased not fit for use equipment, I do not claim to be the expert
In a glass scope, the shooters field of view, with the reticle at its centre, is adjustable via the windage and elevation controls within a larger circle of light defined by the diameter and focal length of the objective lens and the distance from the erector assembly
In a digital scope, light transmitted through the objective lens is focussed into a circle the same size as the diagonal size of the sensor at the location of the sensor. The sensor location is fixed, so the reticle has to move to allow the scope to be zeroed
In the vast majority of cases, that process results in the reticle not being in the centre of the display,
How far from the centre of the display is a function of many variables including bullet trajectory, height of scope above the bore, chosen zero range, angle (if any) of the scope mount relative to the bore
Given the large number of combinations of those variables there will inevitably be some circumstances where the position of the reticle when the rifle is zeroed is so far away from the centre of the display as to be unacceptable to the user
As an example, I have an Arken Zulus with a 35moa mount on my Tikka T1X 22 rimfire rifle and when zeroed at 50 yards, the centre of the reticle is slightly above the centre of the screen (the exact values are X=13, Y=45)
I have tried the 0moa mount and with it fitted I cannot move the reticle low enough on the screen to zero the rifle. If I want to use the 0moa mount I would need to shim the rear of the scope.
Does that make the 0moa mount a faulty product - I don't think so, because many people quite happily use that mount and get their rifles zeroed with the reticle in an acceptable position and would not be able to zero their scope with a 35moa mount.
Similarly, even though it will not give acceptable results for some users, that does not make the 35moa mount a faulty product because it works perfectly well on my particular set up
The point is, that with this type of scope, and depending on your particular combination of rifle, ammunition and zero distance, shimming may be required to get the reticle acceptably close to the centre of the screen - and as I said earlier Arken have gone further than any other manufacturer of similar scopes to try resolve this issue by providing a choice of mounts
As for bias and being an influencer, I plead not guilty.
I am impressed (as are many others) at the price/performance of the scope and I want potential buyers of NV to know about the product and highlight it advantages and disadvantages so that they can make an informed buying decision
I have no commercial or financial involvement with Arken, although I, and others do give them feedback about the product and the positive and negative comments coming from the user base.
This has led to several firmware updates and in no small way led to Arken deciding to supply a range of mounts
I would make the point that Arken are the only company whose products I have used who have ever responded to feedback from the user base.
Try telling PARD, HIK or Pulsar about issues with their products and suggesting improvements - you may get an acknowledgment to your email, but that's all you'll get
I would strongly dispute claims that the scope is not fit for purpose - there are hundreds of satisfied users compared to a handful of moaners.
However, as is often the case, the vast majority of satisfied users tend not to come onto forums like this and sing the praises of the kit and it's the moaners whose voices are disproportionally heard.
Cheers
Bruce
In a digital scope, light transmitted through the objective lens is focussed into a circle the same size as the diagonal size of the sensor at the location of the sensor. The sensor location is fixed, so the reticle has to move to allow the scope to be zeroed
In the vast majority of cases, that process results in the reticle not being in the centre of the display,
How far from the centre of the display is a function of many variables including bullet trajectory, height of scope above the bore, chosen zero range, angle (if any) of the scope mount relative to the bore
Given the large number of combinations of those variables there will inevitably be some circumstances where the position of the reticle when the rifle is zeroed is so far away from the centre of the display as to be unacceptable to the user
As an example, I have an Arken Zulus with a 35moa mount on my Tikka T1X 22 rimfire rifle and when zeroed at 50 yards, the centre of the reticle is slightly above the centre of the screen (the exact values are X=13, Y=45)
I have tried the 0moa mount and with it fitted I cannot move the reticle low enough on the screen to zero the rifle. If I want to use the 0moa mount I would need to shim the rear of the scope.
Does that make the 0moa mount a faulty product - I don't think so, because many people quite happily use that mount and get their rifles zeroed with the reticle in an acceptable position and would not be able to zero their scope with a 35moa mount.
Similarly, even though it will not give acceptable results for some users, that does not make the 35moa mount a faulty product because it works perfectly well on my particular set up
The point is, that with this type of scope, and depending on your particular combination of rifle, ammunition and zero distance, shimming may be required to get the reticle acceptably close to the centre of the screen - and as I said earlier Arken have gone further than any other manufacturer of similar scopes to try resolve this issue by providing a choice of mounts
As for bias and being an influencer, I plead not guilty.
I am impressed (as are many others) at the price/performance of the scope and I want potential buyers of NV to know about the product and highlight it advantages and disadvantages so that they can make an informed buying decision
I have no commercial or financial involvement with Arken, although I, and others do give them feedback about the product and the positive and negative comments coming from the user base.
This has led to several firmware updates and in no small way led to Arken deciding to supply a range of mounts
I would make the point that Arken are the only company whose products I have used who have ever responded to feedback from the user base.
Try telling PARD, HIK or Pulsar about issues with their products and suggesting improvements - you may get an acknowledgment to your email, but that's all you'll get
I would strongly dispute claims that the scope is not fit for purpose - there are hundreds of satisfied users compared to a handful of moaners.
However, as is often the case, the vast majority of satisfied users tend not to come onto forums like this and sing the praises of the kit and it's the moaners whose voices are disproportionally heard.
Cheers
Bruce
jthyttin
Well-Known Member
You are quite unfair comparing stuff.
On the one hand you have thermal that costs several thousands of pounds, on top of hich you buy a mount specific to your rifle. On the other hand you have scope that is about the cheapest on NV market, and you're not contesting whether it works or not. Just go to a smith, anyone decent will solve your mounting problem (and fix the stock of your Blaser in the process, if needed).
I have to assume that you don't understand, many if not most in the active UK NV community come from the time that they HAD TO BUILD THEIR OWN since there were not decent options available at the price they could afford. Now, it might take some fiddling (like shimming or bedding) to get a commercial product installed at the level you want, be it 100% (usually not available w/o fiddling in any product) or "close enough for government work". And all this w/o modifying the product itself, keeping full warranty etc.
Pellet Pinger
Well-Known Member
I use a Neiload aftermarket mount that i already had but for a regular rifle/picatinny you need the long mount.
Overlay
Well-Known Member
Just to be sure I don’t have or have had any NV or thermal problems, I’ll let you work that one out, any thing that crops up is replaced
Bruce has in the past helped me out a lot setting Nv up with advice etc and I’m always grateful for that
I like the pard 007 because it’s very easy to install and transfers to multiple rifles and because the mounts are not pard or the scopes they work perfectly, no faffing about, it just works no range finder, no auto reticule adjustments no nothing it allows you to see in the dark hours and it’s a cheap buy that works for an alright purchase, I have 2 pulsars as well they have never been a problem neither have the thermals
I couldn’t care two monkeys about any night vision whether it’s been hand built or processed in the thousands it’s irrelevant, if it can’t be used as supplied and or needs additional work to set it up apart from the norm, is it really worth the money, you decide, I know what I will do.
I have no intention of falling out with anyone, but at the end of the day, for NV it’s my money and definitely my choice end of
You go with whatever you prefer
Well, I’ve been out to check the Zulu’s zero on the Finnfire again this afternoon having the action out of the stock to flush the trigger yesterday after it started sticking. 
Just a couple of clicks adjustment at a pinged 63yards, updated the zero distance data in the app and downloaded the table to the scope.
(Question for Bruce here… pinging the zeroing target at 63 yards, I’m a bit puzzled why it should place the aim point just above the horizontal? Not enough to make a difference to my poa/poi though)
Found some small pieces of chalk to aim at, pinged those at 105 and a longer one at 173yards and, FMOB, I got strikes on both.
Well, I’m impressed! It was a bit windy with the wind just about quartering from back left so I wasn’t expecting much and not trying too hard… but I have to say it blew me away!
Cheers
Fizz
(No shims were inserted in the making of this post)
Just a couple of clicks adjustment at a pinged 63yards, updated the zero distance data in the app and downloaded the table to the scope.
(Question for Bruce here… pinging the zeroing target at 63 yards, I’m a bit puzzled why it should place the aim point just above the horizontal? Not enough to make a difference to my poa/poi though)
Found some small pieces of chalk to aim at, pinged those at 105 and a longer one at 173yards and, FMOB, I got strikes on both.
Well, I’m impressed! It was a bit windy with the wind just about quartering from back left so I wasn’t expecting much and not trying too hard… but I have to say it blew me away!
Cheers
Fizz
(No shims were inserted in the making of this post)
jthyttin
Well-Known Member
I think you'd just to need to find a kind soul, that takes your rifle, puts on the £400 Arken and fiddles with it a little to get it zeroed and reticle centered. They're called gunsmiths.
The other option you compared Arken to, costs £4000 with the additional mount that you still need to be able to specify (this info is based solely on the thread, I have no experience with T-Ceptor) so by your definition it wouldn't work out of the box either.
Yes the above is hypothetical and you don't have to do anything. But those are the comparable options. You could also pay twice the Arken money for something like Digex, and find out your barrel is not properlu mated to the action andyou run out of adjustment. Or a dayscope.
nun_hunter
Well-Known Member
I've used both the 35MOA mount and currently the 0MOA extended mount and had no issues at all. Both mounts were pretty close to centre for windage (the reticle looks centred in the screen) and now with the 0MOA mount the reticle is in the centre of the screen on the vertical axis.
No issues zeroing in 2 shots and no shimming needed for me.
When it works people don't talk about it, but when it doesn't then there's a whole thread and "loads of others" too that have had issues.
Fizz, was 63 yards the zero distance shown by the Zulus LRF and also the zero distance in your ballistic data ?Well, I’ve been out to check the Zulu’s zero on the Finnfire again this afternoon having the action out of the stock to flush the trigger yesterday after it started sticking.
Just a couple of clicks adjustment at a pinged 63yards, updated the zero distance data in the app and downloaded the table to the scope.
(Question for Bruce here… pinging the zeroing target at 63 yards, I’m a bit puzzled why it should place the aim point just above the horizontal? Not enough to make a difference to my poa/poi though)
Found some small pieces of chalk to aim at, pinged those at 105 and a longer one at 173yards and, FMOB, I got strikes on both.
Well, I’m impressed! It was a bit windy with the wind just about quartering from back left so I wasn’t expecting much and not trying too hard… but I have to say it blew me away!
Cheers
Fizz
(No shims were inserted in the making of this post)
View attachment 352018
How level was the rifle when you zeroed?
The Zulus does incorporate up or down angle in the calculation of the aiming point, so if you were not level, the aiming mark could be slightly above the centre of the reticle
Cheers
Bruce
Morning Bruce,
Yep, I pinged the distance with the scope when zeroing and updated that in the app before transferring the table.
I take your point about the up/down angle though… I was more focused on getting the cant level and didn’t look at the other side of the screen. When setting up I did find a reasonably level bit of ground but there was still the difference in height between the target board just above ground level and the rifle on the Workmate.
Good stuff…..impressive bit of kit
Cheers
Fizz
kenbro
Well-Known Member
So, reading previous posts the settings for the Bal. Calc. Should use the readings from the range finder even if these are known to be incorrect?
Our certified 50 yd range is measured at 57 yds by Zulus straight and level.
On the 100 yd range it’s a different story all together.
Anyone else checked for accuracy of the RF?
No regrets about choosing it.
Cheers, Ken.
Our certified 50 yd range is measured at 57 yds by Zulus straight and level.
On the 100 yd range it’s a different story all together.
Anyone else checked for accuracy of the RF?
No regrets about choosing it.
Cheers, Ken.
Yes, my zulus LRF is slightly out. @ 100yds it reads 104. @ 212yds it read 217. However, yesterday I shot my .243 at 200 and 300 yd gongs using the Zulus LRF and Holdover method and hit both. Both hits would have killed a Fox. So I think it works.
