Preparing new cases

freid

Well-Known Member
I'm just getting started in the art of reloading, and trying to keep it as simple and consistent as possible.

After much reading, I have settled on the approach of FL sizing cases to just fit in my chamber, but backing off the die and testing in small increments until the case fits in my chamber. This all makes sense to me, but begs the question of what you do with new factory brass, which has presumably been sized to some kind of factory spec? I just want to make sure what I do for the first loads is replicated on the 2nd, 3rd and so on.

I could run the new brass through FL sizing die to SAMI spec, and do the same for future reloads, but that would suggest working the brass more than necessary, and potentially create rounds that are undersized for my chamber.

What's worse - not being consistent with the 1st and subsequent loads, or undersizing everything?!

Alternative is to use once fired factory rounds I suppose?

I'm sure there will be many more questions...
 
I only full length size and set the dies up once, as per the supplied leaflet with the dies and never have adjusted. I full length size all new and fired brass, wet tumbling and drying the fired brass first to look after my dies. Sized brass is then trimmed, chamfered, visual checked and ready for priming and loading. Others neck size and bump shoulders back but I chose to keep it simple and only FL Size. As you said keeping it simple and consistent is key.
 
I full length everything to SAAMI and they still shoot to 6mm at 100m. So don't overthink it.

Sizing with a minimal shoulder bump is a good policy.

On new brass depends who made it. If it is Lapua I just shoot it. Other brands I would run them through the die.

There will not be much difference, too much is made of brass prep. We are not looking for world records at 1000m.
 
When I started with new brass ( lapua ) i didn’t touch it just loaded it let it fire form then bumped it back 2 thuw on the next loading. The next time i have new brass I will run the necks through an expander mandrel to set neck tension to my preference
 
What the above posts refer too ‘bumping the shoulders back’ opposed to full length sizing and overworking the brass ie setting up the die as per the instructions with the die bottoming out on the shell holder, you will need to invest in a headspace gauge set in which you can actually measure the amount you’re resizing the brass.. There are plenty of videos out there on this topic..
 
What the above posts refer too ‘bumping the shoulders back’ opposed to full length sizing and overworking the brass ie setting up the die as per the instructions with the die bottoming out on the shell holder, you will need to invest in a headspace gauge set in which you can actually measure the amount you’re resizing the brass.. There are plenty of videos out there on this topic..
I might of used wrong terminology i full length resize and push the shoulders back 2 thuw
 
Surely all you need to do with new brass is determine if your rifle’s bolt will close on the cases without force, and if it does crack on with primer, powder and bullet install prior to shooting (fire forming) them?

K
Yep - did that for years, if the bolt closed easily then carry on…. Then the need to ensure identical case length crept in……
🦊🦊
 
New lapua brass

I FL resize them all
Trim to length
Clean flash hole
Use a mandrel to whatever spec I want
Chamfer and deburr

Maybe ott for stalking but it vastly helps my load development
Agreed you can do an awful lot to new brass before installing primer, powder and bullet if that’s what floats your press.

My point is you can also keep it simple and as you should expect to be able to if the manufacturer has done their stuff correctly and your chamber is standard.

K
 
Agreed you can do an awful lot to new brass before installing primer, powder and bullet if that’s what floats your press.

My point is you can also keep it simple and as you should expect to be able to if the manufacturer has done their stuff correctly and your chamber is standard.

K
I was finding a lot of dented necks on mine , with brand new lap brass for my 6.5 284 and the 22-250

Also the sizes weren’t too bad BUT there was the odd one way out
 
I know this is probably over egging it, but new brass gets the full treatment so that brass is uniform as I can get it and some of the steps don't need doing again on subsequent reloads.
Deburr Flash hole.
Ream primer pocket.
Uniform primer pocket.
FL size not touching neck.
Neck size.
Trim to length.
Chamfer and deburr.
 
1. Check to see if the bolt closes on the new case.
2. Load it and shoot it
3. Repeat.
Unless I'm shooting benchrest.
 
I just deburr flash holes and run them through an expander mandrel to ensure consistent neck tension. All the other stuff comes after the first firing.
 
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