Reloading for beginners

[BigFrank]

So much conflicting advice……I bought a 2nd hand kit last week…Lee classic cast and loads of accessories.
I bought 100 fired once cases and 100 new, PPU. Fully resized the used brass, with lube…and neck sized the new cases, no lube….all fine.
I have trimmed them all and deburred/chamfered.
now getting conflicting advice regarding lube or not…and neck sizing seems to be an issue with some.
I assumed that once fired brass..from my rifle..would only need neck sizing..without lube….apparently not!
unless I get a definitive answer I’ll try everything and record the results and find my own way forward.
would be great if someone could post a simple idiots guide to reloading for beginners.
thoroughly enjoying it though

 

[User00040]

Try reading a manual.

 

[BigFrank]

Did..read 2…Lee and Hornady..but thanks for the advice..would not of thought of it.

 

[Rory]

The Lee manual is pretty comprehensive read for 1st time reloader. I read it before starting my first reloads. I can also recommend 'gunblue490' on YouTube for some great insights (though he does ramble on for some, there's a ton of knowledge). Also, the Hornady reloader series on YouTube is pretty helpful, though orientated towards the Hornady kit.
In short - lube - yes, always, but sparingly, no matter if neck or full length sizing. Start with small batches so if something goes wrong, you can catch it quickly and are not ruining an entire box of cases.

 

[Laurie]

I assumed that once fired brass..from my rifle..would only need neck sizing..without lube….apparently not!

You can often get away with neck-sizing only, but ONLY if your loads are mild. With most tapered/bottle-necked case shapes, the shoulder moves forward appreciably on each loading / firing sequence with normal pressures and within a couple of loadings, you have hard chambering and even harder primary extraction followed by bigger problems if you carry on in subsequent cycles.

You don't say what cartridge / what kind of rifle / shooting purpose. These all influence practices and answers. Most people loading for sporting rifles, but also many loading for minimum dimensions match rifle chambers, full-length size as a matter of course. The 'trick' however, lies in the sizer die setting in the press in that the aim is to 'bump' (set-back) the shoulder position just enough and no more. The default (die bottom edge hard on the shellholder position at press ram TDC) often sets shoulders back far too much.

So far as neck-sizing lube goes, it depends on the die type. The Lee Collet Die works by gripping the case neck and squeezing it onto a mandrel, the collet tines closing and reopening before the case moves vertically against them. It doesn't need or want case-lube, although the collet and its operating collar should be lightly lubed. Other NS dies whether bushing, or conventional but with an oversize body section that push the case-neck into a smaller section area to reduce it should have the necks lubed, titanium carbide coated bushings being a possible exception.

 

[MarinePMI]

So much conflicting advice……I bought a 2nd hand kit last week…Lee classic cast and loads of accessories.
I bought 100 fired once cases and 100 new, PPU. Fully resized the used brass, with lube…and neck sized the new cases, no lube….all fine.
I have trimmed them all and deburred/chamfered.
now getting conflicting advice regarding lube or not…and neck sizing seems to be an issue with some.
I assumed that once fired brass..from my rifle..would only need neck sizing..without lube….apparently not!
unless I get a definitive answer I’ll try everything and record the results and find my own way forward.
would be great if someone could post a simple idiots guide to reloading for beginners.
thoroughly enjoying it though

You should always lube the cases when FL resizing. Period. Otherwise you will get a case stuck in the die. This should be stated in your manual, and it's basic reloading steps.

As to neck sizing; generally speaking you don't have to lube the case, since the die (in theory) is not really touching much of the case body. Still, it's a good idea to lube regardless, especially around the body of the brass, when neck sizing. It's just good insurance against a stuck case.

As others have said, you need to go back and re-read your reloading manual. It's a lot to take it, so don't be shy about going back and reading it many times, as you become familiar with the terms and equipment.

 

[ashray]

please double check your charge weight and check every case for the primer,is it seated correctly and facing the correct way! fill your case with the desired amount of your chosen powder and check the batch of filled cases ,are the all filled to the same height? load the bullet having check the powder before you seat the bullet,do not compress the powder if it crunches the powder when you seat the bullet you have too much powder or you have seated the bullet too deep, lots too learn but take your time, follow the instructions in a manual and you will be fine.

 

[Foxyboy43]

Hmm. Welcome to the dark side! Pretty much all you need by way of an idiot’s guide with many pictures for the hard of thinking is on this site already:-

Overview of the Reloading Process - From Spent Case to Loaded Round

This is intended as an overview of the reloading process explaining the steps required to turn spent brass cases into new loaded rounds. It is aimed at those people who are unfamiliar with the reloading process but if any old hands want to chip in with alternative suggestions then please do - I...

www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk

Assuming you are a hunter/stalker shooting at normal ranges - out to say 300yds the simple case resizing process is:-
* for new/someone else’s brass - full lengh resize and use lube including inside neck (sparingly);
* for your brass (already fired in your rifle) - neck size only - no lube required (Until such times as round is difficult to chamber then full-length as above).
If however you are a long-range target shooter you will almost certainly wish to full-length resize so first buy the biggest ever anorak you can find, the colour is immaterial; but that is a whole new rabbit burrow just beckoning…

ps
Always remember you are making a small grenade which you will be detonating a few inches from your nose - soooo always follow the manufacturer’s powder charges data starting low and working up until you find your required velocity/accuracy - which you inevitably will. You will have many more questions as you progress - this site has a lot of very knowledgeable and generous with their time members
Stay safe

 

[User00040]

Did..read 2…Lee and Hornady..but thanks for the advice..would not of thought of it.

Be worth repeating the exercise as you would answer yourn own questions.

 

[Bavarianbrit]

I add a measured powder amount to the case then pop I the bullet backwards point down into the neck when it goes back into the loading block, that's my optical check before I go on to powder up the next case, a sort of error proofing for me.

 

[Warbucks]

Hi Big frank.
You do not need any lube when using the Lee neck sizing die -------all my 22-250 & 243 are neck sized until eventually (6-10 firings) the shoulders need bumping back, then they get full length sized.
You do need lube for full length sizing, and i gradually work the handle back and forwards until the first case has go through successfully ( as you can still get a lubed case stuck) then away you go.
Another thing that isn't needed is to clean the cases, mine just get neck sized and loaded, after a period of loading the first failure is usually the primer starts to go in loose and i suppose you can have a split neck that you will feel the bullet seat easier than normal, i either of these's situations i throw the case away, -------im getting over 10 loadings with both theses calibers.

Dave (warbucks)

 

[takbok]

Good guide here:

https://ramshot.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/WesternPowdersHandloadingGuide8.0_WEB.pdf

 

[Miki]

Be worth repeating the exercise as you would answer yourn own questions.

Don't worry about our 'Slash' @BigFrank, now the nights are drawing in he's somewhat lonely sitting there in his old wing back chair infront of the fire, generally getting wound up about 'the youth of today' and hoarse from shouting at the wireless.
He knows more about shootin' and reloadin' than anyone else and likes to come out with these superior, snappy one-liners often just to impress his little band of followers.
Pearls of wisdom he calls them or 'free advice', which to be honest, is not really in his nature to give away.
Be grateful, that's what he wants, and to be 'liked'....

 

[jcampbellsmith]

So much conflicting advice……I bought a 2nd hand kit last week…Lee classic cast and loads of accessories.
I bought 100 fired once cases and 100 new, PPU. Fully resized the used brass, with lube…and neck sized the new cases, no lube….all fine.
I have trimmed them all and deburred/chamfered.
now getting conflicting advice regarding lube or not…and neck sizing seems to be an issue with some.
I assumed that once fired brass..from my rifle..would only need neck sizing..without lube….apparently not!
unless I get a definitive answer I’ll try everything and record the results and find my own way forward.
would be great if someone could post a simple idiots guide to reloading for beginners.
thoroughly enjoying it though

Indeed, there are several reasons for the conflicting advice -
There is very little formal training of reloading.
Ask 100 people what their reloading process is, and you will get a 100 different answers.
Some folk think neck sizing is good, others think it's bad.

Good luck.

JCS

 

[BigFrank]

Be worth repeating the exercise as you would answer yourn own questions.

That’s the best reply I have had on here..thank you so much

 

[BigFrank]

Thanks everyone. I am shooting .243 for roe dear, usually 100yds,..occasionally out to 150yds.
I am following the procedures in the Lee and hornady manual. However, some on YouTube and here are advising against neck sizing..and some are advising on full resize every time..regardless of new brass, once fired brass from another rifle or my own rifle.
I was just trying to establish some basic ground rules to keep me on the right track.

 

[Muir]

I no longer neck size but for two specific situations not relevant to this discussion. I FL resize everything.
You are worrying too much. Follow the step-by-step recommendations in the Lee book and make ammunition. ~Muir

 

[User00044]

Don't worry about our 'Slash' @BigFrank, now the nights are drawing in he's somewhat lonely sitting there in his old wing back chair infront of the fire, generally getting wound up about 'the youth of today' and hoarse from shouting at the wireless.
He knows more about shootin' and reloadin' than anyone else and likes to come out with these superior, snappy one-liners often just to impress his little band of followers.
Pearls of wisdom he calls them or 'free advice', which to be honest, is not really in his nature to give away.
Be grateful, that's what he wants, and to be 'liked'....

Be worth repeating the exercise as you would answer yourn own questions.

Honestly, just get a room .

 

[finnbear270]

Also of value here,Overview of the Reloading Process - From Spent Case to Loaded Round
And, some powder "crunching" is allowable in SOME compressed loadings.

 

[Foxyboy43]

Also of value here,Overview of the Reloading Process - From Spent Case to Loaded Round
And, some powder "crunching" is allowable in SOME compressed loadings.

As at post #8 - but an endorsement is always well received!