Removing a scope: do Optilocks return to zero?

Sako75Hunter

Well-Known Member
I have (the separate base + ring type) Optilock scope mounts on all three of my rifles.

I've never had any problems with them loosening due to recoil, but having seen on SD that it can happen, I'm thinking of treating all the threads (apart from the tiny screws that clamp the actual rings) with Loctite blue 243 to rule out any possibility of movement, and for peace of mind.

Just wondering if I were to do this, how close to zero the scopes are likely to be when they're remounted on the rifles?

Any experience relating to this appreciated.

PS: on the two centrefires there's the Sako wedged dovetail, on the rimfire it's an 11mm parallel type.
 
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I’ve taken off a complete scope & rings and refitted the complete setup (no dismantling) torqued the base clamp screws up to what they were and zero had shifted 1 click right.
However, if you intend to dismantle rings from bases etc….?
DG
 
I’ve taken off a complete scope & rings and refitted the complete setup (no dismantling) torqued the base clamp screws up to what they were and zero had shifted 1 click right.
However, if you intend to dismantle rings from bases etc….?
DG
Thanks Davy, that's interesting to know.

Yes, I'd be taking out the screws that join the bases to the rings too, so maybe that would throw things out by more than just one click (hopefully not too much more though?).
 
I don’t like Optilocks per se and have had them come loose with recoil. As a general practice I mark my scopes in situ with an HB pencil if I am removing them - it’s not perfect but it helps and rubs off with wear or a rubber if bothered by it. As for Loctite, I would and have used it in Optilocks before. Use the purple low strength stuff by preference because you stand a good chance of actually getting it off if needed without stripping all the threads.
 
I don’t like Optilocks per se and have had them come loose with recoil. As a general practice I mark my scopes in situ with an HB pencil if I am removing them - it’s not perfect but it helps and rubs off with wear or a rubber if bothered by it. As for Loctite, I would and have used it in Optilocks before. Use the purple low strength stuff by preference because you stand a good chance of actually getting it off if needed without stripping all the threads.
The purple one is 222 loctite, if I remember right?
 
I've usually had to adjust the windage a few clicks if I've had to remove and remount the Optilock bases for any reason but to be fair I've never had them come loose of their own accord.
 
If it’s not broken…
Very true.

What I'll probably do is order a tube of purple 222 Loctite and have it there, and if I have to re-zero a scope for change of ammo, or if I ever have a problem, then I'll use it. Not before.

Glad I asked on here though, 'cos otherwise I would have got the blue one instead.

So thanks again for all the advice SD! 👍👍👍
 
Very true.

What I'll probably do is order a tube of purple 222 Loctite and have it there, and if I have to re-zero a scope for change of ammo, or if I ever have a problem, then I'll use it. Not before.

Glad I asked on here though, 'cos otherwise I would have got the blue one instead.

So thanks again for all the advice SD! 👍👍👍
Here’s a hack that works for me.
Slack off the rear mount screw on the side opposite to your bolt handle. Don’t touch anything else, remove the screw, coat the threads with nail varnish and torque it back up. Repeat with the front screw and then put a blob of nail varnish over the heads.
Remove the screws on the other side and put a little varnish on the threads only then torque them up.
Remove the scope and rings, nail varnish on the threads that join ring to base and replace the scope.
If you only open the screws with no varnish on their heads and slide the rings backwards you should be able to slide them back on and torque them up with very little change of zero, it’s the 2 wind age screws that cause the shift.
I prefer to use nail varnish both because it breaks clean when you try to remove the screws later and because I’ve a wife and 2 daughters so there’s always lots around.
 
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Here’s a hack that works for me.
Slack off the rear mount screw on the side opposite to your bolt handle. Don’t touch anything else, remove the screw, coat the threads with nail varnish and torque it back up. Repeat with the front screw and then put a blob of nail varnish over the heads.
Remove the screws on the other side and put a little varnish on the threads only then torque them up.
Remove the scope and rings, nail varnish on the threads that join ring to base and replace the scope.
If you only open the screws with no varnish on their heads and slide the rings backwards you should be able to slide them back on and torque them up with very little change of zero, it’s the 2 wind age screws that cause the shift.
I prefer to use nail varnish both because it breaks clean when you try to remove the screws later and because I’ve a wife and 2 daughters so there’s always lots around.
I have to admit I'm struggling to understand these instructions dunwater, probably because it's been a long day and my brain is shutting down.

When you say 'remove the screws on the other side', what do you mean? The screws clamping the bases to the dovetail are only on one side: the one where the bolt handle is, or am I missing something? (Probably, as I say the old bonce is refusing to do any more for today.)
 
Took a set of optiloks off recently with scope in situ, refitted and test shot, POI was bulls eye. Would not rely on it, but if torque is identical, they ‘should’ return to zero.

In general, even with dedicated QR mounts of high quality, I’d never trust a return to zero without testing a shot first on paper
 
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