Return to zero scope mounts

All you need is a very good rail and correct positioning on the mounts on the rail. Mounts on my N470s are excellent. I use Burris Zee signature mounts and leave them on my scopes. Just take bolts out and slide off rail. This is where you find out if you have a good rail. I mark the exact positioning on the rail with a marker pen. You can use a torque wrench but I just tighten up by hand. I just cannot understand why Burris Zee signature rings are not used more widely.
D
Ditto, I use a combination of Burris Signature Zee rings on the scopes & Burris Weaver bases on the rifles. Locktite the screws for the bases.

Fit the rings so that they can only go on the bases in the same place each time - the bases have pairs of slots so I set the rings up to use the two that are furthest apart - this also helps you fit the scope back on as one ring will slide on before the other.

Start by fitting the bottom half of the rings & before tightening the screw up fully push the front one forward so the screw is against the front edge of the slot then tighten - this provides you with the datum for future fitting. Rear screw doesn't have to be pushed forward so I give that clearance in the slot. I don't torque these but tighten by hand until I can feel there is no more movement.

The Burris Signature Zee rings have plastic inserts so will 'self align'. Put the scope into the bottom half of the rings (with whatever insert you want to give additional elevation etc.) then do the screws up on the top half of the ring just enough to hold it but so that you can move the scope back & forth to get eye relief & rotate to remove cant.

Then carefully do the screws up in a corner to corner order i.e. top left, bottom right, bottom left, top right. Start off looking at gaps between the two halves of the ring & then feel for just a bit of resistance on each screw before going to the next, keep going round the screws until they are all tight - again I don't torque but 'feel' by hand.

I run a variety of scopes on different rifles using this system, including for air travel, and have never had any issues with loss of zero. Just make sure that when you refit the scope you push it forward so the screw in the front ring indexes in the datum face in the slot of the front base & away you go.
 
Should add, the above will work just as well with a rail instead of individual bases but I'd suggest a dab of white paint, nail varnish, or whatever to indicate which slot you are using a small your datum on the rail.
 
DB s post is spot on and I do the same. The idea of lapping rings is beyond me. The inserts on the Zee rings ensures everything centres. Also eliminates need for MOA rails. Apart from my Leupold which is in adjustable bases and rings all my scopes are mounted in Zee rings.
 
I found the optilock mounts on my sako 75 returned pretty much to with in 1/2moa when using torque settings.
Had my tikka out and switching scopes, found a system and protocol of torquing up the rings in a set order that enabled return to zero to with in 1/2moa and repeated it 5 times to make sure it did-so have confidence in doing it.
I have have multi scope/rifle combos with optilocks, both Tikka and Sako as well at optilock picatinny bases. Never have I had to re zero after they been taken of then reinstalled.
 
I’m going to have to (partially) disagree here.

I think they may work well if only used rarely. I found the ones I inherited on a bought gun got very slack very quickly, and were extremely difficult to troubleshoot and return to consistency. In the end I got rid of them and went to a rail with Recknagel mounts, and never had any problems.
The front swinging mount similar to a Redfield one but it has an allen screw on the base plate to tighten up the play for a tolerance exists even with their manufacturing process.
 
Hi its on a Tikka T3x with a picatinny rail on top i have a thermal mounted on it for foxing but i want to try different powders and different grn heads so thermal isn't the best scope to try
I don’t have a problem developing loads for thermal use at the range.
Usually start at 50 yards then go to 100 yds.
Using hand and foot warmers as targets.
Ken.
 
I don’t have a problem developing loads for thermal use at the range.
Usually start at 50 yards then go to 100 yds.
Using hand and foot warmers as targets.
Ken.
Some I shot today to bring the shots down a little from the first shots on the top target.
Kb.
 

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I don’t have a problem developing loads for thermal use at the range.
Usually start at 50 yards then go to 100 yds.
Using hand and foot warmers as targets.
Ken.
I did the same on Friday. A few more shots at 50m than I would have liked (6) on the left target then out to 100m. The first 100m shot on the right target was the top one, the second, the bullseye 🤗

IMG_5616.jpeg
 
I have the The Sauer HexaLock mounts on my 101, I've found no change in zero when swapping between my two scopes.
 

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