sako finnfire p94s
- Thread starter Ben rodge
- Start date
And has the LIJAA tightened your groups much. My sporter, with Eley Match is as near perfection as one would would wish for, but there again the pursuit of perfection is endless!Yes, love my Finnfire and never had a problem with the paperclip. I've now fitted a Lilja match barrel to my rifle so have a spare 16" screw cut varmint barrel if anyone's interested.
?
I had a couple of Robin's prototype ones, but they did not present the rounds at the correct angle and jammed. I hadn't realised he had got them working now...last I heard (August 2018) he was still waiting to receive the new batch and I presumed as I hadn't heard from him that they did not work either...
will remind him again.
Sako Quad/Finnfire II magazine dimensions needed
Can some kind soul please measure the length (front to rear) of a Sako Quad or Finnfire II magazine (which are the same)? They're longer than the P94S magazines that I currently make so they can accommodate the 17HMR in the Quad but I reckon I can still make them cheaper than factory
www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk
Story of my life with these, I have now spent out £50 on two Mark 1-s from @spandit, and one second hand one from @Going Ballistic Ltd which unfortunately was knackered and also does not cycle with the Eley and CCI hollow points I have...well it does for 3 if you only put 4 into it...Maybe I should just bite the bullet and buy a new magazine which would make a change from the Finnfire doing the bullet biting!
Alan
Richard Pope of Swift Precision did me a blued 16" barrel in .17HM2 along with one of his Nightingale moderators .....very nice.
Although it's not on the rifle much as we ain't got that many rabbits where I shoot now..... and the .22 is actually more fun.
Fizz
Although it's not on the rifle much as we ain't got that many rabbits where I shoot now..... and the .22 is actually more fun.
Fizz
Good to hear...and that 'splains the lack of contact then...will get in touch with him again. Third time lucky!
Alan
Ahh - The pursuit of perfection.
To be honest I've always been a little disappointed with the accuracy of .22 rimfire when compared with centrefire. Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking the .22lr, it's an excellent tool and tremendous fun at an affordable price, I've used it in many forms for over fifty years and for some jobs it just can't be beaten such as various precision pistol events like rapid fire, free pistol etc. where benchrest accuracy comes second to technique. Also as a rabbit and small pest harvester with subsonic ammunition and a moderator it's second to none.Yes, I can shoot a rabbit at 100 yards with a .22lr but with my 6mmbr I could decide in which eye to shoot it, why can't I do the same with a .22? The answer is of course, the ammunition. It's a massed produced 130 year old design and long ago reached it's practical point of perfection. General perceived wisdom is that the best match ammunition was produced in the early to mid 90's and certain batches of that era are much sought after.
With a centrefire you can tune the load to suit your rifle/barrel, with a rimfire it's not so easy, you can chop and change your ammunition to suit your barrel or go the barrel tuner route.
Serious match rifle shooters can arrange to take their rifle to Eley and, under carefully controlled conditions, rifle clamped in a solid rest in a tunnel range can try many different batches of the best match ammunition (not cheap at more than £20/100)
The variation in the various batches is, quite frankly amazing, remember this is from rifles costing £2,3,4k.
So - Is the Lilja barrel more accurate? Yes, marginally. Was it cost effective? - No not really. Do I regret buying it? - No not at all - Trying to wring the best possible result out of my rifles is just another part of the sport I enjoy. If I was just after controlling the rabbits I'd be quite happy with my semi-auto, it does the job very well.
This is 5 rounds with the Lilja barrel through the same hole at 25 yards, the new round won't fall through the same hole:
This is 5 rounds at 200 yards with my 6mmbr - can be covered with a pound coin:
I'd like to say, yes, It'll shoot sub 1" groups very time - Unfortunately it's only sometimes.
Alan, I've sent you an e-mail, sorry for the lack of response. I have been through so many variants of this damn magazine to get it working right (think you had version 3, now on version 66), it's taken a long time. As pinkfoot says, they now seem to work well and for anyone else who bought one of my unreliable originals, by dismantling the magazine and increasing the feed ramp angle a bit should make them work but I am intending on sending out new versions to all who were on the original order - each one takes about 4 hours to print and assemble and I don't want to put all that effort in if they're still not going to work. If they are now reliable, then I will need to start paying in order to sell them on this site
Hi Alan,
I got your drawing and some piano wire. New spring works a treat although the chap on the bench to my right is complaining about having to dig my brass out of his left ear'ole!
Now onto my next project, building a salt- bath annealer with digital temperature control as I seek lower SD's and tighter groups for my long range obsession.
I got your drawing and some piano wire. New spring works a treat although the chap on the bench to my right is complaining about having to dig my brass out of his left ear'ole!
Now onto my next project, building a salt- bath annealer with digital temperature control as I seek lower SD's and tighter groups for my long range obsession.
Good news then, and all thanks to @8x57 's little needle about the Finnfire's weak point! I would never have known or gone looking for the solution...
I will be interested to hear of the results of your salt bath system...I had abject failure when I tried to use a molten Lead annealing system...I ruined a load of perfectly good brass trying to get the temperature and timing right...I just kept plugging the case mouths with lead couldn't get it to flow out again
I didn't have a temperature controlled bath...just a Camping Gaz stove, a stainless dog bowl and an InfraRed Thermometer. The thermometer was a good idea because although lead melts at 327.5˚C its boiling point is 1749˚C so unless you have a thermometer you could be well over case stress relieving temperature.
I ended up using soap as a tell tale (it turns black at around 400˚C) and rotating the case with an electric drill...if you have a happy hour to spend I wrote it all up and there was an interesting discussion following...
www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk
Alan
I will be interested to hear of the results of your salt bath system...I had abject failure when I tried to use a molten Lead annealing system...I ruined a load of perfectly good brass trying to get the temperature and timing right...I just kept plugging the case mouths with lead couldn't get it to flow out again
I didn't have a temperature controlled bath...just a Camping Gaz stove, a stainless dog bowl and an InfraRed Thermometer. The thermometer was a good idea because although lead melts at 327.5˚C its boiling point is 1749˚C so unless you have a thermometer you could be well over case stress relieving temperature.
I ended up using soap as a tell tale (it turns black at around 400˚C) and rotating the case with an electric drill...if you have a happy hour to spend I wrote it all up and there was an interesting discussion following...
Stress Relief Annealing cartridge brass
I have been exploring the subject of cartridge case annealing...well more accurately it is Stress Relief rather then full Annealing temperatures that most reloaders advocate for cartridge case necks. Full annealing of brass (not cartridge cases) when you are working it in the workshop, is...
www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk
Alan
Hi Alan,Good news then, and all thanks to @8x57 's little needle about the Finnfire's weak point! I would never have known or gone looking for the solution...
I will be interested to hear of the results of your salt bath system...I had abject failure when I tried to use a molten Lead annealing system...I ruined a load of perfectly good brass trying to get the temperature and timing right...I just kept plugging the case mouths with lead couldn't get it to flow out again
I didn't have a temperature controlled bath...just a Camping Gaz stove, a stainless dog bowl and an InfraRed Thermometer. The thermometer was a good idea because although lead melts at 327.5˚C its boiling point is 1749˚C so unless you have a thermometer you could be well over case stress relieving temperature.
I ended up using soap as a tell tale (it turns black at around 400˚C) and rotating the case with an electric drill...if you have a happy hour to spend I wrote it all up and there was an interesting discussion following...
Stress Relief Annealing cartridge brass
I have been exploring the subject of cartridge case annealing...well more accurately it is Stress Relief rather then full Annealing temperatures that most reloaders advocate for cartridge case necks. Full annealing of brass (not cartridge cases) when you are working it in the workshop, is...
Alan
After various deliberations I completed my salt bath annealer and as far as I'm concerned it could hardly be better.
Whilst there have been various statements bandied about the internet, mainly, I suspect, by the ill informed armchair rumour -mongers stating everything that will or will not work - salt bath most certainly does work, easier and more consistently than flame based solutions and one hell of a lot cheaper than the £1400 induction device being peddled by AMP.
AMP have recently openly stated that SALT BATH ANNNEALING DOES NOT WORK.
I can show that it does.
If you are interested in building a bath system just let me know and I can send you details.
I responded to your post in my stress relief annealing thread copied below...
It would be useful for every body if you posted details of your set up...Kit, process and your conclusions/results. If you started a thread with Salt Bath Annealing it would come up on a search easily in the future...
It does sound interesting.
The questions I have are mainly as a result of my failed attempt to use a molten lead bath as the heat source.
What temperature are you aiming to take the case neck and shoulder to?
How do you monitor and control the temperature of the salt?
How do you gauge when the case has reached that temperature?
How do you monitor the temperature drop in the salt bath each time you introduce a case?
Is the temperature drop insignificant...ie the heat reservoir of the salt and the input heating element is sufficient to get back up to temperature within the annealing cycle time / between subsequent cases?
Do you have to wait between each case for the heat to be regained, or can you just continue through the batch as fast as you can dip them?
Do you find any salt residue inside the cases? If so how is it removed?
Alan
Follow up re. @spandit 's magazines. Sorry a bit delayed response....it arrived just before we went away travelling for 6 weeks so didn't get a chance to try until the last couple of weeks... and I have now had it working beautifully...the first full load the elevator spring caught inside but once the surface inside was smoothed off (one minute with a roll of emery paper) the feeding has been exemplary. Very pleased.
I took my ejector spring out to match with one I was making for someone, and discovered that the one in my rifle was slightly different than the drawings I posted earlier...it was from Ø 0.024" wire and was also a bit longer overall at 0.920". I don't know if it is an OEM one or not but decided to match it rather than work to the measurements on the image.
The nearest roll of Piano wire I have is Ø 0.026", so fortunately very close to my original...I put one of my new ones back in and it is working fine so far.
Alan
I took my ejector spring out to match with one I was making for someone, and discovered that the one in my rifle was slightly different than the drawings I posted earlier...it was from Ø 0.024" wire and was also a bit longer overall at 0.920". I don't know if it is an OEM one or not but decided to match it rather than work to the measurements on the image.
The nearest roll of Piano wire I have is Ø 0.026", so fortunately very close to my original...I put one of my new ones back in and it is working fine so far.
Alan
Long shot, I don’t suppose you are still on here, my ‘paper clip’ has finally gone (I bought the rifle new and I dare say it’s shot easily 20,000 rounds) but the ejector wire literally broke last week, I’d like to buy a spare!?
I'm afraid Alan died some time ago. His spring diagram is here sako finnfire p94s
Similar threads
