Sako lead free 6.5 x 55 ammo

[quis1]

I had a real issue today with the sako ammo on reds.
Had three rounds on one beast to put it down first was a head shot point of impact was square in the back the head but bullet followed skull under the skin and came out in the bottom jaw blowing it to bits, second shot heart lung good clean hit travelled in and out the other side with very little expansion, third shot placed through the neck finally dropped the beast little expansion but tore through the spine.

This was 6.5 x 55 120grain sako power head blade.

Not had any issues on roe allways had clean single shot kills out to 200m. This was some
What closer around 120m. Seemed to of had better expansion on roe also.

Any suggestions on alternative ammo that will get the job done.

 

[andyk]

How soon after the second was the third shot?

If I had a badly head shot beast, I’d be shooting until I was happy it was definitely not going anywhere.

The point I’m making is it’s not abnormal for something to take 5 seconds to realise it’s dead with a heart shot so if you (understandably) necked it 2-3 seconds afterwards, you can’t draw much of a conclusion (timings aren’t precise, I’m just making a point).

 

[ColinJ]

The optimum bullet weight for the Swede was always 140gr. No idea how that translates to modern non-toxic ammo. Is 140gr an option?

 

[quis1]

From what I am reading need to go lighter.
No expert here so I am sure someone can tell me.
Been using 120g for years in lead with no issues really good knock down.

 

[6mmarc]

Yes 140 grain is an option for the sweed I’ve just got some hornady ecx to load up and try I’ve only used S&B factory 130s so far good on roe and Chinese not great on the reds

 

[quis1]

Yes 140 grain is an option for the sweed I’ve just got some hornady ecx to load up and try I’ve only used S&B factory 130s so far good on roe and Chinese not great on the reds

Guide I was out with said he was getting better results with 110grain in the estate 270’s same maker.

 

[6mmarc]

So like most I guess I’ve heard lighter and faster is better with lead free I’m just not sure myself I’ve seen different things on line and some have gone heavier with decent results in certain calibers I’ve got 120s for the sweed too just not tried them yet

 

[HonestJohn]

Shot many roe and reds with 6.5x55 with Sako powerhead blade in 120g, probably the best performing non toxic bullet I’ve ever used.

I think you were just unlucky

 

[quis1]

Shot many roe and reds with 6.5x55 with Sako powerhead blade in 120g, probably the best performing non toxic bullet I’ve ever used.

I think you were just unlucky

Been fine on the roe. But no expansion was really happening, was cold and windy. Never had issues with lead at all.

 

[HonestJohn]

Been fine on the roe. But no expansion was really happening, was cold and windy. Never had issues with lead at all.

But do remember that traditional shot placement doesn’t work with non-toxic ammo, you have to put it in front of the shoulder, not behind it.

 

[Donkey Basher]

But do remember that traditional shot placement doesn’t work with non-toxic ammo, you have to put it in front of the shoulder, not behind it.

Better tell that to this guy then - & the pricket I shot before him - 200 yards for this one & he went about 5 yards, 325 yards on the pricket & he dropped on the spot.

Sako Powerhead blade 308 162gn.

 

[big ears]

Whilst what you describe must have been a pretty harrowing experience I do not think changing the bullet is the answer. Particularly if it worked on Roe.

What the issue is here, and the elephant in the room, is that head shooting on wild deer is wrong and will go wrong as you describe.
The second shot not working in part is probably due to the first shot failing and an adrenaline spike in the animal.

My advice for what it is worth is stop head shooting, chest shoot only and ideally pin them through the shoulders or use a hilar shot.

 

[Chris Richardson]

From what I am reading need to go lighter.
No expert here so I am sure someone can tell me.
Been using 120g for years in lead with no issues really good knock down.

There you have it ! Leads a better choice

 

[Mike1979]

Whilst what you describe must have been a pretty harrowing experience I do not think changing the bullet is the answer. Particularly if it worked on Roe.

What the issue is here, and the elephant in the room, is that head shooting on wild deer is wrong and will go wrong as you describe.
The second shot not working in part is probably due to the first shot failing and an adrenaline spike in the animal.

My advice for what it is worth is stop head shooting, chest shoot only and ideally pin them through the shoulders or use a hilar shot.

I think there have been plenty of debates on here about head shooting but classing it as wrong is your opinion and not one that everyone will agree with.

I will tend to avoid head shots in most cases but will also take them when appropriate (and that is a subjective choice). We all make our choices and when we make a mistake deal with the consequences.

 

[Chris Richardson]

Whilst what you describe must have been a pretty harrowing experience I do not think changing the bullet is the answer. Particularly if it worked on Roe.

What the issue is here, and the elephant in the room, is that head shooting on wild deer is wrong and will go wrong as you describe.
The second shot not working in part is probably due to the first shot failing and an adrenaline spike in the animal.

My advice for what it is worth is stop head shooting, chest shoot only and ideally pin them through the shoulders or use a hilar shot.

Chest and neck shots go wrong too

 

[FISH BOY]

Been using 120gr Sako Blades out of my 6.5CM for the past couple of years - have to say I really like them. Mainly fallow, with only a few 40 yard runners - they remind me of a 243 100gr lead soft point.

Only ever recovered one which shows good expansion - 80yard unaware pricket.




Ps - I’ve had your first shot, missing the back of the skull and skimming down the face - thankfully the sorrel just froze so was able to put one swiftly in the boiler room dropping it on the spot.

Check zero and stick with them - you might of just had one of those days.

 

[big ears]

I think there have been plenty of debates on here about head shooting but classing it as wrong is your opinion and not one that everyone will agree with.

I will tend to avoid head shots in most cases but will also take them when appropriate (and that is a subjective choice). We all make our choices and when we make a mistake deal with the consequences.

Chest and neck shots go wrong too

Best practice still states chest shot on a broadside animal if I’m not mistaken .

As you say lots of debates on head shots, usually from new members trying to prove things. I tend to listen to the ones with the most experience.

Experience will tell you that a chest shot well placed rarely goes wrong in such a catastrophic way as shooting a jaw off. Any shot can go wrong but the reasons are usually down to the shot taker rather than anything else.

As you say each to your own but I choose to follow best practice.

 

[Chris Richardson]

Best practice still states chest shot on a broadside animal if I’m not mistaken .

As you say lots of debates on head shots, usually from new members trying to prove things. I tend to listen to the ones with the most experience.

Experience will tell you that a chest shot well placed rarely goes wrong in such a catastrophic way as shooting a jaw off. Any shot can go wrong but the reasons are usually down to the shot taker rather than anything else.

As you say each to your own but I choose to follow best practice.

That’s lovely but I’m not new to the game and I’ve seen brisket shots front legs clipped and neck shots that haven’t hit the spine none of which are nice to see , you do you’re “ best practice “ I’ll do what I know works

 

[big ears]

That’s lovely but I’m not new to the game and I’ve seen brisket shots front legs clipped and neck shots that haven’t hit the spine none of which are nice to see , you do you’re “ best practice “ I’ll do what I know works

You need to read my post. Chest shots go wring because if the shooter not the bullet. Badly considered shots by those not willing to let them pass is often the reason.

I include head shots in that bracket too. With one exception park deer controlled cull

 

[Dunwaters]

I’ve been using that same load for a few years now with zero problems.
You got unlucky, the angle on the first shot was slightly off, so the bullet deflected instead of penetrating the bone. The second shot would have killed it and your third shot is the option I would have chosen for the first. A near miss of the spine would still have dropped it.
Copper doesn’t “ dump” energy by fragmenting like some of the traditional bullets, personally I love it, but it does penetrate much more than you may be used to.