Sako Optilock bases: different types?

[Sako75Hunter]

This is an old thread I know, but does anyone know if you can fit long action based to a short action without any problems? I've got a Sako 85 and have just bought some off a chap without realising I should have asked first! Any wisdom would be appreciated.
Initial fitting shows the side clamps are not quite straight when tightened up...

That's exactly the arrangement I have on my Sako 75 in .223. The rifle came with long action bases so I've been using them ever since without any problems whatsoever. So long as they work with the scope you have to give the right eye relief, why not? If you look at my profile pic you can see what my set up looks like.

Just one point: I always have the front base pushed forward as far as it will go, which obviously helps with this situation too.

 

[KentCountryGent]

That's exactly the arrangement I have on my Sako 75 in .223. The rifle came with long action bases so I've been using them ever since without any problems whatsoever. So long as they work with the scope you have to give the right eye relief, why not? If you look at my profile pic you can see what my set up looks like.

Just one point: I always have the front base pushed forward as far as it will go, which obviously helps with this situation too.

Thanks for getting back to me! That Makes sense, although when I did the same and pushed the front base all the way forward the side clamp wouldn't tighten very far and it stood proud from the base - did you find the same? Because of that I moved it back to about 1mm in front of the ejection port. I would obviously like to have a greater saddle distance though so I might move it forward again...

 

[Sako75Hunter]

Thanks for getting back to me! That Makes sense, although when I did the same and pushed the front base all the way forward the side clamp wouldn't tighten very far and it stood proud from the base - did you find the same? Because of that I moved it back to about 1mm in front of the ejection port. I would obviously like to have a greater saddle distance though so I might move it forward again...

It's a long time now since I set it all up, so I can't remember all the details. The reason I keep the front bases pushed as far forward as possible on my two Sakos is that i reckon that being wedged on the taper (as well as clamped, of course) makes it all less likely to move with recoil, a problem that some people with optilocks have experienced.

 

[antsa]

Size selection is pretty straightforward if you read the guides. The images below are from the packaging. In current instructions info for rimfire bases, ringmounts and specific S20 gear are included.

Mounting method was always described as pushing the rear base stop pin fully forward into the slot in the receiver and placing the forward base so that its rear edge lines up with the front edge of the ejection port. Having recently purchased a new set of rings I found that this procedure has been modified:

Cheers

 

[Sako75Hunter]

Anyone using optilocks should take note of the recommended fitting method outlined in the Sako document shown in antsa's post above.

The front base should not only be set as far forward as it will go (ie wedging it tight on the taper), it should actually be lightly tapped into that position with a plastic-headed hammer or such like. Otherwise it risks working its way loose with recoil.

 

[KentCountryGent]

Size selection is pretty straightforward if you read the guides. The images below are from the packaging. In current instructions info for rimfire bases, ringmounts and specific S20 gear are included.

Mounting method was always described as pushing the rear base stop pin fully forward into the slot in the receiver and placing the forward base so that its rear edge lines up with the front edge of the ejection port. Having recently purchased a new set of rings I found that this procedure has been modified:

Cheers

This is so helpful Ansta - thank you

 

[Dalua]

Anyone using optilocks should take note of the recommended fitting method outlined in the Sako document shown in antsa's post above.

The front base should not only be set as far forward as it will go (ie wedging it tight on the taper), it should actually be lightly tapped into that position with a plastic-headed hammer or such like. Otherwise it risks working its way loose with recoil.

I noted this curious change of instructions on a previous thread, and they have perhaps good reason to haev changed them

However, I have not altered the arrangement of the Optilocks on any of my SAKOs - principally because I have never noted the any rearward drift in the front mount on my various rifles - at least insofar as such drift would manifest as a slackening of the base-clamping screw.

Has anyone else noted this as a problem?

 

[Sako75Hunter]

I noted this curious change of instructions on a previous thread, and they have perhaps good reason to haev changed them

However, I have not altered the arrangement of the Optilocks on any of my SAKOs - principally because I have never noted the any rearward drift in the front mount on my various rifles - at least insofar as such drift would manifest as a slackening of the base-clamping screw.

Has anyone else noted this as a problem?

I definitely recall a few people on SD having serious problems with optilocks shifting under recoil, often curing it with such solutions as drilling into the action and fitting a pin.

 

[sundog]

I've never noticed any movement of optilocks on my rifles, 308, 270, 6.5x55, 222. Not massively recoiling cartridges granted but no movement whatsoever. I set them up the 'old' way and even taking a scope off and putting it back on again they are pretty much bang on with no change in point of impact. In fact that's one of the things I like about optilocks.

One thing I've always thought about Sako rifles is that the front dovetail should be parallel. The rear one is great; tapered with a recoil stop but the front should be parallel to allow adjustments for length of scope. I know that the tapered front dovetail allows you to adjust for windage but on a properly machined action that surely shouldn't be necessary.
Have I got this completely wrong and talking bollocks if so fire away

 

[KentCountryGent]

I've never noticed any movement of optilocks on my rifles, 308, 270, 6.5x55, 222. Not massively recoiling cartridges granted but no movement whatsoever. I set them up the 'old' way and even taking a scope off and putting it back on again they are pretty much bang on with no change in point of impact. In fact that's one of the things I like about optilocks.

One thing I've always thought about Sako rifles is that the front dovetail should be parallel. The rear one is great; tapered with a recoil stop but the front should be parallel to allow adjustments for length of scope. I know that the tapered front dovetail allows you to adjust for windage but on a properly machined action that surely shouldn't be necessary.
Have I got this completely wrong and talking bollocks if so fire away

Are the dovetails not parallel? Surely they must be otherwise if the front scope base moved forward or back wouldn't this bend the scope tube to one side or the other? Or maybe I'm talking bollocks! Made me worry though as on my 85 I have pushed the front base as far forward as it will go on the dovetail and torqued it up. Sits properly in the bottom half of the rings so seems aligned...any thoughts?

 

[sundog]

I believe that the tapered front dovetail allows you to adjust windage. The further on to the dovetail the base goes the further right ( from memory) the POI moves. I put a scope on optilock ring mounts and set the mounts up as far apart as I could on my rifle and ran out of clicks on my scope when I went out to zero it. Only when I bore sighted it did I realise why I had run out of adjustment. Rookie mistake ****ed me off at the time as I hadn't taken tools to sort it.

I see what you're saying about bending the scope but the plastic inserts do allow some movement in many directions before you snug the screws up. Check your scope, you may find the windage clicks are away to one side though it probably doesn't matter much unless it annoys a head maggot!

 

[KentCountryGent]

I guess I will have to try and zero it and will find out...I'll let you know!

 

[antsa]

I noted this curious change of instructions on a previous thread, and they have perhaps good reason to haev changed them

However, I have not altered the arrangement of the Optilocks on any of my SAKOs - principally because I have never noted the any rearward drift in the front mount on my various rifles - at least insofar as such drift would manifest as a slackening of the base-clamping screw.

Has anyone else noted this as a problem?

I too use the "old" method on my centerfires (.222, .223, .260 and .308). I've never had a problem with the Optilocks. Of course it is bit of a bugger having seperate rings and bases. I understand the rational behind the concept: the same rings can be mounted on different bases making for simpler production. I can recall reading somewhere years ago of a bloke who had his rings and bases laser-welded together. This is something I would like to do if I could find someone who does this sort of thing.

Cheers

 

[User00040]

I definitely recall a few people on SD having serious problems with optilocks shifting under recoil, often curing it with such solutions as drilling into the action and fitting a pin.

Clearly an inferior workaround.

TIG welding them on should work...

Here are some original (pre-Beretta takeover) 1-inch low, windage adjustable scope mounts, which also happen to be for sale here:

For Sale: - Vintage Sako (60's, 70's) 1 inch scope Low mounts

Hi all, Up for sale are some vintage Sako (pre-Beretta) one piece LOW mounts for a 1 inch tube. Will fit any Sako dovetail and is windage adjustable. one of the screws is a replacement (came to me like that) a little burred on the originals but for mounts over 30 years old they are in good...

www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk

 

[llwynog]

I know we all love our Optilocks, but their solution for attaching the ring to the base is terrible.

 

[Storkie]

I just bought a Sako 75 action 3 standard barrel 7 08, was just looking at bases and wondering if I would need short or long. Looking at the posts above Sako 75 lll is shown in short & long columns. Is it a choice as dont the rings dictate the scope size, do they give that much difference in mounting position? I suppose going into a shop and see what works is what people used to do any help greatly appreciated. Mounting a pulsar digex C50 to it if that makes much difference to bases, I think most use Medium rings for this scope…

 

[20-250]

I just bought a Sako 75 action 3 standard barrel 7 08, was just looking at bases and wondering if I would need short or long. Looking at the posts above Sako 75 lll is shown in short & long columns. Is it a choice as dont the rings dictate the scope size, do they give that much difference in mounting position? I suppose going into a shop and see what works is what people used to do any help greatly appreciated. Mounting a pulsar digex C50 to it if that makes much difference to bases, I think most use Medium rings for this scope…

You need short action bases.