Sauer 100 Misfiring
- Thread starter Bugsy
- Start date
Ttocs
Well-Known Member
I’ve had exactly the same issue with my 22 Hornet; a little detective work revealed I was searing the primers too deeply. However, I’d start with a bolt strip and clean - the last thing you want is a sticky firing pin that sticks when you pull the trigger then “drops” when you touch the bolt handle - nasty hang fire with a bolt partially or fully open! There’s a lot of powder/energy in a 270 - I’d take the rifle and some of your reloads to a competent gunsmith
for a health check.
N
for a health check.
N
It was the stripping of the bolt I was hoping somebody could say either “ there a bugger “ or “ there no to bad “ .. YouTube has a few videos on Remi’s , Rugers , and sako but no Sauer , I’m quite hands on with stripping the rifle but I don’t want to break a pin or damage the bolt and can’t get a part for months . I prefer to take advice first rather than stamp on and regret later.
I looked at the seating of the primer but it looks fine , do you use a hand primer , how did you solve the problem of not setting the primer to deep . Cheers
Somwetimes I do and I’m taking on what you are saying .Just got a text from a gunsmith to look at it tomorrow at a cost of a £120
it will be a simple problem I bet , dear knows 
Dunwaters
Well-Known Member
Disassemble and clean out the bolt first if you can, use a degreaser and get right into the firing pin channel. If your gun is anything like the 202 its a fairly close fit, it doesn’t take much to interfere with firing pin travel.Somwetimes I do and I’m taking on what you are saying .Just got a text from a gunsmith to look at it tomorrow at a cost of a £120
An occasional squirt of WD40 is more than enough lube.
Ttocs
Well-Known Member
The primers I was using were REM 61/2 which are quite soft. I solved the problem by not driving them as hard with my Lee hand primer - I now seat them by feel rather than until the handle goes click.
if the Sauer 100 i
bolt is exactly the same as a Mauser M18 bolt they’re very easy to strip. Looking at the bolt from the rear, grip the body of the bolt and rotate the end cap clockwise about 30 degrees - the end cap should pop out complete with firing pin. Removing the firing pin is a little more tricky and involves clamping the firing pin and drifting out the retaining pin with a punch (I’d leave that to a gunsmith if it’s required). However it’s easy enough to compress the firing pin and flush out the endcap. Having said that, the most likely problem is cack around the firing pin hole in the bolt face - give this a good flush and mop/brush with a cleaning rod, pipe cleaners etc.
if the Sauer 100 i
bolt is exactly the same as a Mauser M18 bolt they’re very easy to strip. Looking at the bolt from the rear, grip the body of the bolt and rotate the end cap clockwise about 30 degrees - the end cap should pop out complete with firing pin. Removing the firing pin is a little more tricky and involves clamping the firing pin and drifting out the retaining pin with a punch (I’d leave that to a gunsmith if it’s required). However it’s easy enough to compress the firing pin and flush out the endcap. Having said that, the most likely problem is cack around the firing pin hole in the bolt face - give this a good flush and mop/brush with a cleaning rod, pipe cleaners etc.
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Stalker-of-the-deer
Well-Known Member
Need help with a sauer 100 xt bolt?
Hey guys I just received this rifle, and will be posting about it soon. Trying to break the bolt down and clean all the grease out. For the life of me I can not figure it out lol. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
forum.nosler.com
That link shows a sauer 100 bolt bring taken apart. Loos like you push a pin out on the side the whole thing comes apart
Ttocs
Well-Known Member
Yes, once you’ve removed the pairing pin/end cap, there’s a pin holding the firing pin but it’s under tension. Before attempting to remove the pin the whole end cap and pin section will need to be clamped to take the tension of the spring - the pin can then be pressed out with a parallel pin punch. The pin is a small round spring pin and it would be very easy to bugger it.
Excellent
I’ll have a go when the rifle is back .. cheers really appreciate everybody’s help .
Travelled up road to the Gunsmith to pick up the rifle last night and got the rundown on what was wrong . He showed me how to take it apart and it’s really easy . It was a combination of poor workmanship , dirt , grease , small metal filings , and lastly small particles of polystyrene all inside the bolt . When the firing pin was taking out of the bolt there was another 2mm pin retaining the actual firing pin which hadn’t been set in properly and was scraping the inside of the bolt , it was over greased with the dirt sticking to it along with the metal filings and the very small parts of polystyrene. He took pictures of the stripping down as he went and gave me good feedback as to what he had done to address the problems including re- blueing the parts that showed signs of wear . It was amazing the difference in closing the bolt now and even how smooth it is , so I might have paid 120 quid but am happy with his service . So this weekend will tell if all’s well on the Sauer . Cheers
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