Scope mounting and Zeroing

[Rusty Gate]

Undo the rings, turn the bottom half 180 degrees and re tighten, sounds like they are sitting of centre. Hopefully this will sort things out for you.

Whole ring 180, there matched pairs

 

[Rusty Gate]

Undo the rings, turn the bottom half 180 degrees and re tighten, sounds like they are sitting of centre. Hopefully this will sort things out for you.

Whole ring 180, there matched pairs

Hi guys, I’m looking for some advice.

I am trying to zero my rifle/scope however even with the wind age adjustment fully right, my rounds are landing 2” left of centre at 100yards.

Vertical adjustment is ok.

I have a Zeiss Duralyt 3-12x50, mounted with Tier one medium mounts on a weaver/Picatinny rail. The scope rings are torqued as per Tier one instructions.

Group size is currently just over 1 MOA, but, these were taken with a hot barrel tonight as I was running out of time before I needed to get home. I already know this shoots better than that so accuracy isn’t in question.

what should I be checking for scope alignment?

Thanks

Do have a look to see if the bases on the non clamped side can clamp fully on the edge if the rail without the tip of the ring clamp fouling on rail/action first. You might not be clamped up cental on your rail.

 

[Hook'N'Bullet]

I had this with my burris. Swapped the front and rear mounts around and all was dandy

 

[HandB]

This is the flashlight method that I use to assess this sort of problem:

1. Position a vice with padded jaws on a sturdy table near a wall.
2. Clamp the rifle in the vice level both ways and with the breech pointing at the wall (bolt removed).
3. Shine a small flashlight down the muzzle towards the wall and place a vertical strip of masking tape about two feet long where the dot of light lands.
4. Using a large spirit level and black marker draw a true vertical line on the masking tape that passes through the dot of light (mark that dot on the tape with a cross in biro).
5. Centre the reticule in the scope by using the mirror method (press the objective lens to a mirror in a brightly lit room and adjust cross hair so it overlays its shadow).
6. Clamp the scope in the rings with a small spirit level balanced on the top of the elevation turret to ensure it is horizontal left to right.
7. Shine a powerful flashlight through the front of the scope and turn the focus ring until the reticule is in focus projected on the masking tape.
8. If the scope is aligned with the bore in the left to right axis you should see the crosshair intersect with the vertical line on the tape.
9. If the cross hair is on or below the biro mark then the mounting rail has useful tilt built into it.
10. If it is above the biro mark by the distance in which the scope centreline is above the bore then the mounting rail has no tilt.
11. If it is above the biro mark by more than the distance in which the scope centreline is above the bore then the mounting rail has the wrong kind of tilt.

 

[DDMS]

Thanks for the help guys. It looks like the rail isnt inline with the bore. After various trials of swapping parts around, i have ended up shimming the scope to get the scope central. Boresighted the scope at 25 yards (Through the kitchen doors to the bottom of the garden). With Windage adjustment central it is near enough dead centre over the target.

I have a new rail coming and a set of windage adjustable rings on their way. Going to have a look at getting this set up over the weekend.

Thanks for the help and i will update once completed.

 

[cjm1066]

My go to rifle is a Whitworth (Interarms MX10). I use Leupold mounts which have windage adjustment, the scope was visibly off line before I adjusted the mounts. It grates every time I have a close look (thanks for remining me!) but after 30 years holding zero, has proven itself. In my case the receiver was drilled slightly off line.

 

[09mutley05]

Hope you get this sorted, it can be very frustrating, a word of warning when using shims, be very careful not to over tighten. I had a friend scope up an air rifle with a new scope when I first got into shooting. He said he had to shim it up using old photographic film cut to size, to sort out the elevation. All was fine until I sold the air rifle and wanted to keep the scope. Had a big crimp in the under side where he’d over tightened the rings were almost touching. Scope was worthless then really.

 

[DDMS]

Hope you get this sorted, it can be very frustrating, a word of warning when using shims, be very careful not to over tighten. I had a friend scope up an air rifle with a new scope when I first got into shooting. He said he had to shim it up using old photographic film cut to size, to sort out the elevation. All was fine until I sold the air rifle and wanted to keep the scope. Had a big crimp in the under side where he’d over tightened the rings were almost touching. Scope was worthless then really.

Thanks. YeahI’ve made sure they aren’t over tightened.

Waiting for the new rings to arrive so I can correct them.

 

[Cyres]

Ok this is what you need to do. You need to buy a set of Burris Zee signature rings, the ones with plastic inserts. Second you need to centre both turrets. Then bore sight your weapon with scope mounted in rings and this should give you some idea of how much out the rail is. Remove scope and adjust scope to centre line using appropriate plastic shims.

When I fitted my Photon on my .243 it was nearly 10" left so corrected by using 2 10" inserts on my signature rings. Put it almost spot on and only needed a few tweeks. Best thin is the reticule is pretty well optically centred.

D

 

[ejg]

Some rails just have a bit of play left-right when screwing onto a rifle. I presume in this case it is similar.
I start by setting the windage of the scope to it's centre position. (count clicks left to right and halve) then loosely fit the rail and fit the scope provisionally. There should be a little slop left right in the loose rail. Test if the slop is enough to be able to bore sight. On a cheap rifle I would consider to just epoxy the rail onto the action.
Start by waxing the rail screws, apply some bedding compound or steel epoxy onto the rail, fit the rail only so tight that it can be moved with a little force, quickly fit the scope and adjust (by knocking/push rail left or right) until bore sighted with the centred scope. Then leave to cure fully... 12-24hr.
After the epoxy has cured one can removed the rails screws one at a time and screw down with Loctite medium.
You scope should now have all the travel left right available to zero. All for the cost of a few drops of epoxy.
If you want to protect the action for the future, just apply some release agent or shoe wax to the action before gluing the rail.
edi

 

[DDMS]

So I have changed the rail for a Brittania Rail and the centre line is spot on for bore sighting. Looks like the rail I had on was slightly off centre.

I am now central on the horizontal axis but I’m 3” high (cross hairs) at 10m. For a 100m zero with a .243, how high or low should I be at 10m?

I have got myself confused and can’t work out if the cross hairs should be high or low at 10m.

Thanks for all the help so far.