Small Larder Solutions !!

After out-growing a couple of drinks chillers and then a double-door commercial stainless chiller, I set about a solution to my needs given that I had limited space and needed to deal with well over 100 deer per year, including some rather large ones!
First step was to buy an old walk-in chiller box which cost me £280 but had no chiller unit. It wasn’t huge but fit neatly into the corner of my garage. The external dimensions are 1.8m long, 1.2m wide but only 2m tall ! The height was my biggest concern!
I managed to secure 50% funding from the East of England Wild Venison Project to purchase the Monoblock chiller unit, Stainless Trestle, Scales and an Elecric hoist. That got me up and running!
My next concern was that the unit would struggle to support the weight of several heavy deer.
My solution was to build an external frame over the chiller which could take the weight. I managed to get some 4”x2” Aluminium box section which was ideal (and free!). Next came the dilemma of how best to use the available hanging space. I decided that a ‘race-track’ shape design would be best and would also help to access particular animals. This would then be secured to the external frame through the roof. I looked at various rail systems and track runners but they all took up valuable vertical space. My solution was to secure the rail from below, thus keeping the actual hanging point as high as possible. I have a couple of friends who are pretty good with steel fabrication which helped!
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So far so good, but I also had a problem with lifting large beasts on my own. Extending the external frame gave me somewhere to attach the hoist and lift, but I still had to somehow get the beast through the door and onto the hanging rail. I ran out of inspiration for a while and coped by wheeling large animals into the chiller on the tressle, but I could only really cope with one at a time.
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(Note the chest spreaders which are standard plastic waste pipe cut at 45 dgree angles - very cheap and dishwashable!);)

After much pondering, a removal slide-rail idea came along! Local friend was again tasked with the production of some rather snazzy slide hooks! The rail is supported by the
externalframe leg and slides out so that the door can be closed after use .

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The ultimate test of the finished article came in the form of a 45 stone red stag which was still 300 lb larder weight! The clever bit here is to hang a larger animal by the pelvic bone and not the hocks which saves an awful lot of height required.

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So there you have it! You don't necessarily need a huge game larder to deal with large deer.
Just a bit of thought and determination!

MS:D
 
Do you find you need to lubricate the rail/sliders? do you use wax or ptfe spray or is there a preferred catering product?

When I was engineering manager for a large meat processing plant we tried lots of differant lubricant for the rollers but in the end keeping them clean was the answer. We used food grade white parrafin to clean them. Failing that Food lube sprays are readily available. Can't imagine how many deer you would need to be doing before this became a problem.

Ezzy
 
When I was engineering manager for a large meat processing plant we tried lots of differant lubricant for the rollers
Ezzy

Ah, it was because there are no rollers that I asked the question. Stainless to stainless under pressure can be sticky in my experience. Have you never had a stainless nut weld to a bolt? Most inconvenient!

​Alan
 
Do you find you need to lubricate the rail/sliders? do you use wax or ptfe spray or is there a preferred catering product?

I tried some lard! It turned into a bit of a sticky mess!
I then put a slight camber on the inside of the flat bar hooks and polished them with some very fine wet & Dry paper. They seem to run fine. I give them a good wash frequently so and lube would come off anyway. I was going to look into sourceing some food grade grease though for my sausage stuffer gearing so any recommendations would be good for me also!
MS
 
I then put a slight camber on the inside of the flat bar hooks and polished them with some very fine wet & Dry paper.
MS

Yes, removing the mechanical lock of any square edges would be my first approach as a metalworker.

I have found Renaissance wax which I make up from microcrystalline and polythene 'A' wax and white spirit very good on a stainless ring to aluminium pole curtain. Although the rail contacting part of the slider is never going to contact the carcass if there is a specific edible/non toxic product available...But maybe Ezzy will provide a link to his food lube.

I tip a bit of talcum powder in to my bags of stainless nuts or bolts to prevent them binding...might save someone a headache...

Estate larder rail was a similar setup found keeping everything clean was enough never actually lubricated.

I have seen a number of different rail and sliders systems this one is the first I have seen with this combination of round tube rail and flat strip sliders hence my query. Was your "similar set up" the same in this respect?

Alan
 
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Yes, removing the mechanical lock of any square edges would be my first approach as a metalworker.

I have found Renaissance wax which I make up from microcrystalline and polythene 'A' wax and white spirit very good on a stainless ring to aluminium pole curtain. Although the rail contacting part of the slider is never going to contact the carcass if there is a specific edible/non toxic product available...But maybe Ezzy will provide a link to his food lube.

I tip a bit of talcum powder in to my bags of stainless nuts or bolts to prevent them binding...might save someone a headache...



I have seen a number of different rail and sliders systems this one is the first I have seen with this combination of round tube rail and flat strip sliders hence my query. Was your "similar set up" the same in this respect?

Alan

Yes as far as I can make out from the photographs it was, the flat bar was bent in a U shape so that it fitted over the round bar slightly bigger so that could be easily lifted on and off the bar but not so big that it could move about on the bar other than in the direction intended if that makes any sense.
 
So that begs the question why did you decide against the track that is shown on that page, or did you find those hooks after you had gone for your tube design? That track system would have given you a few millimetres more head room...
 
So that begs the question why did you decide against the track that is shown on that page, or did you find those hooks after you had gone for your tube design? That track system would have given you a few millimetres more head room...

Cost and availability as well as I wouldn't have been able to do the removable door bar section. Also, the round bar still takes a normal 'S' hook if I get dozens of deer, rabbits, etc...
MS
 
Thank you for posting and your answers...sorry for the third degree...it all makes perfect sense now!

I had been considering a flat bar on edge say 50 x 15 for the track/rail which would be easy to bend or using a sliding door track with rollers which wouldn't! Back to the drawing board methinks...

Alan
 
Hi. Looks brilliant.
Any chance you could post a photo of the supporting frame. I've just got a similar chiller part funder by the DI and have been trying to decide the best way of installing some rails.
​Cheers
 
MS - Did you consider using rollers as seen on that website you put a link to? If you had to do it again, are the any things you would change?
 
MS - Did you consider using rollers as seen on that website you put a link to? If you had to do it again, are the any things you would change?
Not really. Rollers are ok but would need a lot more height above the rail especially through the door frame. The slide hooks work well enough and require no maintenance other than cleaning. Keeping the rail high up is higher priority in a relatively low chiller. A 240v hoist would have been better but nowhere could I find a compact one to suit. That one is 12v ands runs off a battery with a solar trickle charger.
It all works well!
MS
 
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