swapping scope between multiple rifles - any experiences ?

DaveNeal

Well-Known Member
So I've got a hikmicro 4k with lrf, currently on a t3x.

I also shot a 452, to be honest more than the t3x.

given the zero-ing memory settings on the scope, I can theoretically move the scope between the rifles, swap the zero settings, start shooting.

anyone else doing this, anything to look out for ? are QD/QR rings/mounting needed or preferred over an allen key ? single piece mount and leave the rings be ? any recommendations ?

cheers
 
First thing you need to do is have picatinny rails on both rifles
Then mark the position of the scope rings on the rail on each rifle when you zero so you can always put the scope back on each rifle in exactly the same place and pull the scope backwards when tightening the scope on the rail
When you swap the scope between rifles remember to change both the zero profile and the ballistic profile to suit the rifle you are going to use
Done properly, the results can be good, but don't expect to put the scope on your 452 after having fired a few shots with it on the 243 and expect to head shoot bunnies at 100 yards - it's never going to be as good as a scope fitted permanently to a rifle

Cheers

Bruce
 
slightly different but same principle, I was swapping optical and digital scopes on my only rifle but was never completly confident and lost confidence all together after a miss.
I bought a second rifle of the same caliber and now have one scope on each.
 
My stalking mate went through this recently on two Sauer 101 rifles (one .243 one .223) using INNOMOUNTS swapping between a Pulsar C50 and a Swaro Z8. It worked, but it was fiddly - the mounts had to be torqued onto the mount at exactly the correct torque and in the end it proved too much fuss, and he was never truly confident of it being bang on zero after each swap. Unless you’ve got Blaser/Mauser/ Schultz and Larsen type of QR mounts it seems to be they’re always a little off each time you remount.
Hence he went down the S&L route and swaps between scopes with complete confidence.
 
I've had the same experiences swapping scopes between a 243 and 223 T3x's both fitted with picatinny rails and the scopes on Sportsmatch quick release mounts.
When swapped they don't initially quite hold an accurate enough zero to give me the confidence for really precise shot placement
 
The single biggest problem with swapping a scope between rifles is confidence (or the lack of it) that it will hold zero on each rifle
IMO, confidence in the kit you are using is paramount to successful shooting
If you're not confident that you scope is zeroed on your rifle then why bother even taking the shot?
I think the fact that all of the responses above cite lack of confidence as the reason for not moving scopes between rifles should given a lot of thought

Cheers

Bruce
 
Technically no problem in swapping. Since there will be many "interfaces" it's far better to have quality components. Make sure the rails are properly attached to rifle action, and rings/mount to the scope. One piece mount preferred. Like said make sure the scope will be in correct slot.

Avoid QD unless you have rail from same manufacturer on both rifles, and can adjust the QD so that it's similar fit on both. Torque driver and regular bolts far better. I assume you will do the swap at home in relaxed environment, good lighting etc. Better yet if you write down the procedure and follow it by the letter each time. Otherwise if you e.g. keep few months between seasons, you could botch something up.

I'd rather pull the scope forward before final torqueing (primary recoil will move rifle rearward).
 
I’ve certainly had scopes & mounting systems where the scope & mounts could be taken off & replaced as often as I wanted without loss of zero but then putting it on another rifle? No way, thanks. Just get another scope for the 2nd rifle.
 
So I've got a hikmicro 4k with lrf, currently on a t3x.

I also shot a 452, to be honest more than the t3x.

given the zero-ing memory settings on the scope, I can theoretically move the scope between the rifles, swap the zero settings, start shooting.

anyone else doing this, anything to look out for ? are QD/QR rings/mounting needed or preferred over an allen key ? single piece mount and leave the rings be ? any recommendations ?

cheers
I'd say it mainly depends on how often you were looking to be swapping the scopes over, if its a case of twice a year and when you do it your happy to put it on a target to check it/tweak it a bit, a decent one piece Innomount on a picatinny rail should do you well for that purpose. I've got one myself and get on well with it.

But if your looking to go stalking then swap scopes and then go foxing without checking it, it may be slightly off and knock your confidence on it a bit and be a costly exercise as most decent one piece mounts seem to RRP around the £400 mark and you'd need 2 of them plus a rail if you don't have one already.
 
My dad does this with his 4k. Put rails on a tikka 223 and a begara 6.5cm. he then uses quick release mounts to swap it over. He marks where it goes on the rail and obviosly changes profile for each rifle. He hasnt had any issues and hes a serious technophobe. He is out foxing two to three nights a week with the 223 and then will swap it onto the 6.5 for stalking on the weekend, but just of late he has just left it on the creed and from the videos he sends the foxes seem to still be dying.
 
First thing you need to do is have picatinny rails on both rifles
Then mark the position of the scope rings on the rail on each rifle when you zero so you can always put the scope back on each rifle in exactly the same place and pull the scope backwards when tightening the scope on the rail
When you swap the scope between rifles remember to change both the zero profile and the ballistic profile to suit the rifle you are going to use
Done properly, the results can be good, but don't expect to put the scope on your 452 after having fired a few shots with it on the 243 and expect to head shoot bunnies at 100 yards - it's never going to be as good as a scope fitted permanently to a rifle

Cheers

Bruce
@mealiejimmy can you explain why you pull the scope back? I have always pushed my mounts/bases forward and tightened down.
My understanding is when the rifle recoils backwards the mounts have no where to go.
Cheers
 
I have no ties to the company, on a BAR mk3 that I use for wild boar hunting I use the quick release mount with Contessa base, alternate red dot and optics with zero loss Expensive but excellent

 
Yeah i've been doing this for the past two years or so. The point made above about pic rails having slightly different tolerances/variance in finish. For example I have a brittania rail on my .17 which I know is a fraction of a mm out compared to the spec on the tier one rails which I have on my .270 and .308 - therefore I would reccomend sticking the same type of rail ( if possible) on each rifle you are wanting to use.

Secondly, rings - the same applies - I am using tier one QD tac rings on both the scopes which I swap between rifles.

Thirdly, the principle of marking or remembering which 'slot' on the rail you are clamping on to and then 'PUSHING FORWARD' prior to clamping the QD mount on to rail.

With digital NV/Thermal scopes which offer multiple profiles, I have zero issues with swapping out between rifles without the need to check zero.
 
I swap Infiray Tube TD50L between 3 different riles. Using Warne QD mounts + one piece Weaver rails on all of them. No problem to keep drift of point of impact inside 1-1,5 moa
 
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I’ve been doing this with my Alpex 4k with tier one QD monomount for this season.

Although I’ve not been using it on a different rifle, I’ve just taken off & replaced with a day scope for targets etc & then put back on after…

I have found it holds zero to within a tenth of a mil, possibly 2 tenths so I’m happy that it’s good enough for stalking, not sure I’d be quite as confident taking longer range shots at foxes etc

I’m yet to try swapping it into another rifle but I’ll let you know how I get on.
 
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