This sounds like a good idea too. I've got various Loctite goo for bike stuff so all the ingredients are already here. It:s interesting that different material bullets perform better at different depths. I want to try some copper bullets out since I imagine that will be the future. Good work navigating the rabbitholes so I don't have to explore them quite so extensively! The next few weekends are going to be interesting I think!
Time to start reloading!
- Thread starter Gorgon
- Start date
No, data for standard cup and core bullets differs from mono metal bullets not interchangeable. You may also find data for short bullet such as a 70 grn Speer hp and decide as I did to use a 70grn Nosler Ballistic tip, pressures were way too high, reason why is projectile length. My chronograph velocity should have rung my alarm bell. In the end I reduced my powder charge and all is well.
Lol. You will spend ages faffing about trying all and sundry, I practically guarantee it
And I have absolutely no doubt you'll thoroughly enjoy it, and learn a shedload in the process. I know I certainly did when I started. Just find what works for you and treat reloading as an extension to the hobby and you won't go far wrong. I know some folk who enjoy the process of load development almost more than the shooting itself, and good luck to them. For myself, the stalk is everything, and as long as my loads perform well enough to humanely kill deer at the ranges I shoot them at I'm happy. Don't get me wrong though, I thoroughly enjoy reloading. I just don't like range work
Smellydog
Well-Known Member
My PH safari in 308 would not group with anything shot from it.
Despite a so called floating barrel on removing the stock there was a long witness mark along the barrel where it was vibrating on the stock.
I removed lots of wood and tried again.
One particular load now wanted to send it's bullets down the same hole!
Utectok
Well-Known Member
In my experience there is a lot of nonsense floating about regarding seating depth based on very little evidence. Put simply copper bullets need a jump 80-120thou lead will be fine at sammi COAL. Some believe they can tune a load with seating depth but it is very hard to find statistically valid evidence of this.
Foxyboy43
Well-Known Member
Yep, I’m with you on that one U.
For all practical hunting purposes I feel there is little to be gained in fiddling with seating depth but those new to the black art must always be aware of seating too deep and the associated pressure rise!
Smellydog
Well-Known Member
Foxy, darling, if a bullet is seated to deep it will look wrong.Yep, I’m with you on that one U.
For all practical hunting purposes I feel there is little to be gained in fiddling with seating depth but those new to the black art must always be aware of seating too deep and the associated pressure rise!
And if it doesn't look wrong nothing is going to blow up. Not with published data.
We is a long way away from dangerous pressures.
All our firearms, including the wee 22 are high pressure operating devices.
Simply use a low grade Loctite, easy.
Foxyboy43
Well-Known Member
Yep agreed Smelly - obviously to old buggers like thee and me but the post was intended as a cautionary heads-up for newbies who may not even be aware of what pressure can do.Foxy, darling, if a bullet is seated to deep it will look wrong.
And if it doesn't look wrong nothing is going to blow up. Not with published data.
We is a long way away from dangerous pressures.
All our firearms, including the wee 22 are high pressure operating devices.
Loctite or any other "Goo" do not belong in a rifle chamber.
I have presumed that seating depth affects to percentage fill as much as anything else, hence pressure changes.those new to the black art must always be aware of seating too deep and the associated pressure rise!
Yes, quite agree in principal.
With the Loctite method, you only need to use a small blob inside the case neck, insert bullet, never had any come out at this stage but if it does wipe excess away, when cartridge inserted into the chamber the bullet is pushed deeper into the case spreading the Loctite deeper into the neck. Important to leave the Loctite to cure/set before removing cartridge.
Only use a low stick Loctite, then if you do get any ooze the cartridge will not be glued into the chamber and any excess would be easily cleaned out. (You tube demonstrations available).
Whilst the Loctite could possibly ooze into the chamber, never say never, I have not ever experienced this, but only my experience.
Both bullet and case reusable.
Utectok
Well-Known Member
In the good old days we simply used a blanked cleaning rod to measure chamber with the firing pin out and bolt closed… mark with tape….. then load a cartridge with a bullet very long without any powder or primer and let the lands push the bullet into the case as you close the bolt… then measure again with the cleaning rod. That’s your jam COAL length simples no loctite or other material used
Utectok
Well-Known Member
Of course you don’t actually need to take the firing pin out really as it shouldn’t protrude when the rifle is cocked but just in case?
Best thing is find someone with good experience in your area ( a mentor ) who can get you set up with the process , although there are books available and i recommend getting them and reading through . The bullets you have chosen are good for the job and are not really fussy about jump to the start of the rifling so a good start ( at least while lead is still legal )
work on not touching the rifling but off it and the bullet should have contact with the full neck of the case ( basic hunting bullets as described are very jump tolerant ) . start with new brass or that that has been only fired from your rifle , this will help by not bringing in problems .
BUT BUY A BOOK ON THE RELOADING PROCESS AND READ IT .
the best way was and still is to do this with the pin spring removed . Any pressure on closing being too long this can be easy to spot with some layout blue leaving a signature , i with your dummy round ( brand new sized case ) . I factory hunting rifles with regular bullets and a modern factory gun jump length actually makes very little difference in my experience though , if its some place near (for practical proof of this try and set a 58 grain 243 to touch the rifling in a 243 ( you will spill all the powder out before you get anyplace even near touching ). Touching or close to touching the rifling is in my experience a bad idea in a stalking rifle used in bad weather and dirty conditions ( we are not bench rest shooters shooting for score ) indeed these guys simply avoid shooting in dirty conditions / wet weather
gelert
Well-Known Member
Do you have an ogive tool and a decent set of calipers and a way of measuring the lands such a Hornady lock n load OAL gauge and maybe a sharpie?
This is really the only accurate way of measuring a bullet length consistently comparable to where the lands is in your rifle.
I would start with finding the accurate powder weight first. Typically, but not always the closer you are to max seems to give better results, or certainly the higher side of the table chart.
I go with increments of 0.5 first, then adjust accordingly. Once I'm happy with the charge weight, I'll start playing with seating depth.
What might be more important is if you have a magazine, the loaded cartridge cycles and fits properly with no issues.
Bavarianbrit
Well-Known Member
But if the case has no primer fitted then still it will work with a protruding firing pin going into the empty space where said primer sits.
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