Using a butchers saw

[TheOldTool]

Hi, after some tips on the useage, I have brought a smaller one, around 300mm blade, the teeth face forwards, but its a real struggle to use.

I am a furniture and cabinet maker so have fantastic sturdy benches and vices for working wood and the primary rule there is to have an immobile workpiece....or you are never going to get an accurate cut.

This is not easy to do on a big round slippery carcass on a lightweight table ( compared to my woodwork bench which is a 2 person lift! )

Any hints and tips? Thanks

 

[User00056]

It's easier to reverse the blade and cut on the rearward stroke, I've always found

 

[The Singing Stalker]

Rearward cut, and, I presume you are cutting the meat first, with a knife, so that you are not using the saw to cut meat and blocking the teeth?

 

[Apthorpe]

Not a very serious tip and one more from the agricultural carpentry end of the spectrum, but you could use your woodwork bench and immobilise the carcass on that, by nailing it down if necessary.
I very seldom use a saw on a carcass, occasionally a cleaver or hatchet.

 

[Red Dragon 2]

Was a butcher for years, never had a problem using a saw forwards, are the teeth too big?

 

[TheOldTool]

Will check the teeth size, thanks for the replies

 

[75]

Go gently - less pressure than you'd probably think... And try and cut "down" things if they are hanging; so you have the blade at about 45 degrees (tip down) rather than blade horizontal. That way you're not pushing the carcass backwards and forwards causing it to swing around.

 

[muddy42]

I prefer a fine toothed woodworking saw. Its infinitely easier to clean than a butchers saw

 

[Ranger22]

I find new blades can be a pain, once it’s been used a couple of times it’s fine. I always cut on the forward stroke with mine

 

[Freeforester]

Hi, after some tips on the useage, I have brought a smaller one, around 300mm blade, the teeth face forwards, but its a real struggle to use.

I am a furniture and cabinet maker so have fantastic sturdy benches and vices for working wood and the primary rule there is to have an immobile workpiece....or you are never going to get an accurate cut.

This is not easy to do on a big round slippery carcass on a lightweight table ( compared to my woodwork bench which is a 2 person lift! )

Any hints and tips? Thanks

What are you cutting?

I only use mine on roe shanks and red deer ribs near the saddle/loin: no problem with the shanks, and only very light pressure on the rib outer sides.

 

[TheOldTool]

Hi, I have been using to cut shank bones, cut up the ribs and spine after butchering and sometimes other odd bones depending on how we are butchering....
It has about 9 or 10 tpi
I swapped the blades to face the teeth backwards but have yet to try it....
Thanks for the helpful replies....

 

[jb1]

Teeth forwards, ive never been concerned about teeth per inch, never entered my head, if the saw is bouncing off the ribs your using too much force, not holding the carcass steady, take your time and be gentle.

I would have no idea how many times ive used a saw in well over 30 years and still counting.

 

[moeggesit]

Do yourself a favour and use a combination/ hybrid blade type wood saw. It cuts better and straight.

You’re quite right about holding it tightly. I find hanging it to be the answer most of the time (sequence is important) and a second person helps a lot when cutting on a table.

 

[weblyish]

got taught some neat presentation butchery when i worked in a fancy restaurant - french trimming racks of ribs, ossobucco, neat lambshanks etc
we always used a standard hacksaw (so 24tpi) with teeth forwards so thats what I do

 

[TheOldTool]

So reversing the blade has made a world of difference, all good now! Thanks to all