What distance do you sight?

[captdavid]

What distance do you sight your deer rifle in for and why? I sight my 7x57 and 30-06 in about +2" @ 100yds, and dead on @200yds. that makes me about -4" @ 250yds and -8" @ 300yds. It's 2" Point Blank Range is around 240yds. with this, it's easy to figure where to aim at out to 300yds. capt david

 

[Heym SR20]

What distance do you sight your deer rifle in for and why? I sight my 7x57 and 30-06 in about +2" @ 100yds, and dead on @200yds. that makes me about -4" @ 250yds and -8" @ 300yds. It's 2" Point Blank Range is around 240yds. with this, it's easy to figure where to aim at out to 300yds. capt david

Pretty much this, but prefer just over an inch at 100 as tend to shoot most deer at under 100.

 

[captdavid]

prefer just over an inch at 100 as tend to shoot most deer at under 100.

I have started doing the same with 175 round nose in my 7x57 for pigs and the occasional does that come to a feeder@90yds. I have lights and often hunt for hogs around the edges of darkness and after dark. The Hornady RN was designed for the anemic 7x57 American loads. It's very soft, but @ 2400fps just expands without a lot of unnecessary blood shot meat. As we say in texas, 'You can eat right up to the hole!' capt david

 

[Lateral]

100yds, and the Swarovski BT set out 350-400yds, depending on rifle calibre

 

[Cootmeurer]

Shooterscalculator.com. Shooting my .270, point blank zero is 26 yards. This makes it 3 inches high at 100, 2 inches high at 200, and 3 inches low at 300. Barring wind, inside my range of comfort (300 or les) I can hold dead on.

 

[North Stalker]

Zero at 50m, this was with a .270 chucking 130's
At 50m, my second point of impact (zero) was 150m which worked well,only 2 clicks to 200m but had my BT out to 500m in 25m increments.

Now have a DS and zeroed at 100m

 

[Jdt]

1in high at 100yds

 

[FISH BOY]

100m as thats what the range is and know the drop per calibre, but dont go past 200 anyway.

 

[diverdave]

Both my rifles, 243 and 3006 are zeroed at 100 mtr, but have swarovski BT and have additional checked zeros at 200mts, 250 and 300mtr. Once we have our 100 mtr set, we use the swarovski calculator to basically the the BT at the other ranges, then we test each one on our range. The calculator is almost always within 2 clicks of our tests. So we have a repeatable zero at each of these ranges. My shooting pal has exactly the same scopes, on different makes of rifles and though the click numbers are different due to a different barrel length and velocity the results are basically the same. We found the results so good we put similar scopes on our .22 rimfires, set at 60, 70, 90 and 100 meters, and found the clicks ran out at 118 meters, so we have repeatable zeros on our .22, which makes for great fun daylight rabbit shooting. I am hoping the results are repeated with the Pard unit fitted, but that is untested at the moment.
So we have minimised guess work, hold over and in the open hill environment we shoot in it works well for us. I doubt this would work well in an open forest, but we dont have much of that on our ground, so what we have works for us. Matched with RF binos its a quick and efficient set up.

 

[ChrisWorley]

Both 270/223 at 1" high at 100yds, like to st as close as possible,if they run off then it's my fault wi l be there another day.

 

[User00014]

In zero my 270 spot on at 50m and it’s point and squirt out to 200m and that serves me well.

 

[Jagare]

112 mtrs spot on because that the length of my rifle range. Double rifle 50mtrs because thats the range it regulated for and the .22, 50 mtrs

 

[flying felix]

POA = POI at 100m. I like my bullets to land where I aim.

 

[Andy-Painter]

With a 308 using 150 grain soft points, one inch high at 100yards, so pretty flat out to 160 yards and only around 3 inch drop to 200yards.

Very rarely shoot beyoud as my stalking is mostly woodland and small fields in Southern England.

 

[Klenchblaize]

Centrefire = 100M
Rimfire = 40M

K

 

[rem284]

175m

 

[willyroe]

Personally I am an advocate of zero at 100m. I know I have a 4-5 inch drop at 200m on my .30-06 red deer rifle. Up to 150m I don’t make any adjustment (plenty of punch with yer old ought-six!). It only comes out 3 or 4 times a year.

Now have BT for my .243 (100 / 150 / 200m). This is my rifle for weekly roe and fox. Lucky to have BT’s and really like the solution it provides.

I like the 1inch high thing at 100m but just too anal to accept it. If I practice at 100m I want that hole exactly where I though I’ve put it.

 

[NigelM]

Another oversimplified poll. Too many variables.

Do you woodland stalk or hill stalk? Do you like to get in close or are you happy with a longer shot? Do you use turrets or prefer holdover?

I have a woodland stalking rifle zero'd at 100m. Average range is about 75 meters and I haven't shot anything over 100 meters all year in the woods. If you want to neck or head shoot (only about 25% of my shots combined) you can't be zero'd 2" high.

The hill rifle runs at an average range of about 200 meters, zero'd at 100m but with a ballistic trajectory turret which is etched with range in meters for my bullet and recipe. I can dial zero to 480 meters and have tested it out to that range.

Choose your system to match your type and style of stalking. There is no "one size fits all" solution.

 

[bogtrotter]

1 inch high at 100 yards

 

[diverdave]

NigelM i totally agree. My concern with an inch high at 100m, which is what we used to do, so when something pops its head up 50-100 meters from you, you have to guesstimate what an inch or 2 inches low looks like, or whatever your rifle does at that range. Even with loads of practice, though it is easy to measure exactly an inch high on a target of known size, you have to guess the size of the target at range and then guess what an inch looks like on that unknown target. So an inch on an old stag and an inch on a young roe could look totally different in the scope, as you will never have been up to the target and know what size of the target you are dealing with. If a range finder is not used, only the "calibrated" eye, then even more variables are introduced, and without a RF everyone, no matter how experienced cannot guess right every time in varying topography and light. Ok, in most cases it will work fine, and with body shots it will often make no difference, head and neck shots, well i am just not comfortable with that degree of guess works. I expect many here are quite used to this, and find it works perfectly, however perhaps we dont hear all the stories of when it goes wrong. It wont be an issue for SD members i am sure, only for others, who dont use this resource to discuss and learn!
I expect my discomfort with this is because some years ago on a paid for hind stalk we were greeted by a shot over the skyline, across the march, over our heads and coming in our direction, and a herd of reds storming towards us, one with its jaw hanging off, i wrote about it here years ago. We spent the rest of my days stalking chasing the hinds, to finish off the injured one. Eventually we caught up with them, and it was shot at 360 meters. Never a range i would choose, and there is loads more to the story - look it up. However i later heard the shot was taken by very experienced stalker - and it just went wrong. Now, with what is available, i want to minimise all possibility of this, and so my zero is a true zero, as above they all are, and i have no real vertical guess works, and can concentrate on wind effect only. I am not opposed to H&N shots, though it is more a shot taken when no other is available, and there is a reason why i need to take that shot. Of course, enjoy what you do, if it works for you, great. It used to work for me, i was happy with it. Now that i have tried a different zero system i am way happier with that.