To alleviate the condensation as a potential source of rust, in addition to greasing the threads, once removed you could place the moderator in a warm place (end up on a radiator, place in a dehumidifier, bang it in the oven at 50deg etc) to evaporate the condensation.
What to put on threads?
- Thread starter Tyla
- Start date
First you need to clean it.....
Bronze brush for the bore, jag and patches.
Pipe brush...
to clean the mod thread.Best guess it could also be small flakes of carbon as that will be the main deposit in a moderator...
Thank you for all replies, barrel and crown cleaned with boretech eliminator, nylon brush and lots of patches, I've used the same on the threads to gey them clean
I guess the problem is why I'm getting such a lot of deposits from the mod. I have never cleaned a mod so perhaps time for a bottle brush with boretech on it?
I guess the problem is why I'm getting such a lot of deposits from the mod. I have never cleaned a mod so perhaps time for a bottle brush with boretech on it?
jthyttin
Well-Known Member
Galvanic corrosion, or whatever you want to call it. Some believe in it, others don't. In case of moderator (over barrel) whatever you put on the threads on rifle will get into the mod and is PITA to remove if you so desire.
Rifle/mod thread in stalking rifles is not high temperature application so you really don't need high temperature additives in lubricant. Also you really should put the mod on/off every time the rifle is used, so you're not looking for antisieze qualities in the lubricant.
As I posted I use gun grease (just a small dab) you are quite correct as the mod is off more than it is on then anti-seize material is not needed. The thread in a mod will be a machine tap cut type with the hole a tad oversize so it will allow for any nonmail size thread cut on a barrel to fit. If this was not the case then moderators would be getting stuck/frozen on all the time.
There is a lot going on inside a moderator each time a rifle is fired with the residue staying inside for the life of a fixed type,
types that can be changed/cleaned inside have there own problems with fine threads at both ends and the centre one.
The mating face of the shoulder and how tight you do it up is what keeps it from coming undone.
With a pipe brush most have a "eye" on both ends so they can be pulled along or back
same as some gun cleaning brush heads have an "eye" for the same reason as many would have a piece of cord and lead and drop it down the breach. Bore snakes have exactly that..
When @enfieldspares turns up I am sure he will remember the scene with Mrs Pike threading the pull through the .303 lol
53753 | Vikan Blue Bottle Brush, 480mm x 10mm | RS
No. LOL! But I can remember the picture in the Army manual showing three man Bren Gun double ended pull through technique. Most odd. Man in the middle standing legs apart holding it at his waist level and parallel to the ground and at either side a man on each end of the pullthrough. Alas the internet doesn't seem to have that picture. But when we cleaned our six Bren Guns after range use for practice and classification we just used a rod and phosphor bronze brush.
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