Which Mauser action is this?
- Thread starter Essexsussex
- Start date
harrygrey382
Well-Known Member
I can’t see any identifying marks - obviously its ex military, the bolt handle has been modified for low scope. It may have a single set trigger, and I like that style of low swing safety. Yes it would be a good basis for a classy build. Without more info you’d have to assume it came out of any of the big manufacturers in Germany/Czechoslovakia/poland. There will be more marks under the action that an expert (not me) could use, also they may be a crest factory code (if made during wwii) under the front scope mount
harrygrey382
Well-Known Member
What markings should I be looking for?
Essexsussex
Well-Known Member
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
They were not brno, I’ve had a few PH’s and a few BRNO made actions, the BRNO made actions were of far higher machining tolerances than anything I’ve ever seen in PH’s. I’d argue most PH’s were made using cheaper interwar mil surplus actions
That’s not to slag them off, but the BRNO VZ actions were a different kettle of fish both in finish, metallurgy, finish and tolerances
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
FN of course made lots of military actions with thumb slots, as well as commercial straight walled actions.
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
F Block (serial number F) is likely an ex mil action from Oberndorf. Most likely a ‘Mod. 98’ , not to be confused with M98. Which is an excellent action for custom rifle builds. The bolt handle is not FN.
This looks like a good action, but. Unawareness drilled for that particular 3 screw scope base, so if you want to use two part bases you need to drill two new holes in the rear bridge, making it very busy with holes! Meaning, laser weld the existing one and refinish, not cheap. But! There’s nothing wrong with the pictured scope base for Leupold or redfield style rings
Yes, both have the cut out on the left.
They are identical rifles in all but calibre.
I'll have a look for markings tomorrow.
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
Possibly either my old eyes or the angle of the photograph but the action looks rather short compared to that of a standard M98?
K
K
I never thought of that
Does make me chuckle a bit though, when I see expensive rifles which are essentially exactly the same as mine!
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
Nah, only shorter versions were the Kurtz. And this is not one.
Ok, edit, and the intermediate Mauser, but it has a much longer front receiver ring
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HonestJohn
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Hence the PH M81 is seen as a working man’s rigbyI never thought of that
Does make me chuckle a bit though, when I see expensive rifles which are essentially exactly the same as mine!
Essexsussex
Well-Known Member
I expect I would keep the existing rings unless they are a hideous thing for the action. Really great feedback though thank you John.
harrygrey382
Well-Known Member
How do you figure on F block being Oberndorf - didn’t all 98 manufacturers use the same prefix letter blocks on their rifles. My take on serial numbers is that they’re mostly a red herring and it minefield. Posting up under action shots on a collectors forum along with proof stamps can help. Eg the first proof may show country of origin?
Agreed on the scope mounts, although I’d suggest the rear bridge doesn’t need laser welding - TIG would be fine. The heat treatment in that area is not critical. Personally I’m not a fan of the aesthetics of one piece mounts, but most don’t care?
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
It’s a gut feeling based on actions I’ve had and built on before and seen similar serial number font/styles, but as you say, it’s like a minefield, and can very very hard to get right.
You really need to handle them to be able to tell if they were ‘good ones’, you will know quickly because of the smoothness, the timing and the tolerances, along with degree of bolt slop when fully open. You can also tell by looking underneath and how well finished the bottom of the action is.
Measuring the front will will also ascertain how much was scrubbed off the roll stamp. actions with BYF and DOT often had very deep stamps that needed a big polish to remove. On the LH side wall, a deep scrub could indicate MOD 98 as they were often also deep stamped, but not always!
One thing with this action - it has pitting, if it’s on the surface exterior, know the interior before committing! It would need further polishing by someone with the right tools, and fully refinishing in my view. And a new safety on that shroud
You really need to handle them to be able to tell if they were ‘good ones’, you will know quickly because of the smoothness, the timing and the tolerances, along with degree of bolt slop when fully open. You can also tell by looking underneath and how well finished the bottom of the action is.
Measuring the front will will also ascertain how much was scrubbed off the roll stamp. actions with BYF and DOT often had very deep stamps that needed a big polish to remove. On the LH side wall, a deep scrub could indicate MOD 98 as they were often also deep stamped, but not always!
One thing with this action - it has pitting, if it’s on the surface exterior, know the interior before committing! It would need further polishing by someone with the right tools, and fully refinishing in my view. And a new safety on that shroud
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
8x57 is fine and a great round if kept under 150yds or so. Hugely underrated IMHO
It would have been unpleasant because of the rifles stock design most likely, esp. if it was the original k98 stock Sporterised and original steel buttplate. There’s nothing in it recoil wise between the 8mm Mauser and your beloved 7x57 really.
Could also be it was a heavy pill, thy can handle up to around 200g, which gives a fair amount of recoil
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