Wicked edge or Tormek

[Precision123]

I'd never use a pull through. Makes the 'edge' toothy (which feels sharp but it ain't) and brittle.
If your knife won't stay sharp, then you're using the burr and not a polished edge.
I use a Sharpie to highlight the bevel and then either diamond plates or Japanese water stones. I sharpen by hand which is as perverse as loading your own ammo.
You are not sharpening a knife, but polishing a blade. Do that, and you can leave the temple...

 

[Pellet Pinger]

Ruixin Pro RX-008 Knife Sharpner.

After having a few different sharpening systems, this one ticks all the boxes.
Better than the edge pro i sold.

Yep, they work very well, for 30 quid it’s a no brainer

 

[norcan]

However, I have some knives I would not want to sharpen on the other systems but want something quicker and more repeatable than stones (with my input!).

Repeatability would favour a guided system over the Tormek. Is the Wicked Edge the only one you’re considering, or would a similar concept such as Edge Pro or KME also be in the running?

For my money, I’d personally be looking at something from TSProf — probably the K03 model. Huge versatility, very precise and well-thought-out, plus the selection of high-quality stones that fit the system is immense.

 

[delta wolf]

Repeatability would favour a guided system over the Tormek. Is the Wicked Edge the only one you’re considering, or would a similar concept such as Edge Pro or KME also be in the running?

For my money, I’d personally be looking at something from TSProf — probably the K03 model. Huge versatility, very precise and well-thought-out, plus the selection of high-quality stones that fit the system is immense.

View attachment 273010

I will definitely consider other guided systems, I like the look of the edge pro but don't like having to hold the knife in place rather than a clamp. I am definitely interested in a ts Prof but wonder about availability going forward?

 

[Bowland blades]

Its not the tool used its the tool holding it , seriously ! A guy could spend a lot of cash on knife sharpening kit and still get a poor result against an old half way blind guy and a dished out stone who couldn't even tell you the angle he was at .
90% of my knives i take back for a free re- sharpening have the same fault ( see above) I can still sharpen them but the messed up bit has to go eating up knife life .
Get some cheap old well used knives ( new cheap knives are often chemically sharpened i think and the steel HT wont actually support a burr) and learn how to feel the angle and maintain it , refine the grit then how to remove the burr with a regular paddle strop

 

[RM100]

Its not the tool used its the tool holding it , seriously ! A guy could spend a lot of cash on knife sharpening kit and still get a poor result against an old half way blind guy and a dished out stone who couldn't even tell you the angle he was at .
90% of my knives i take back for a free re- sharpening have the same fault ( see above) I can still sharpen them but the messed up bit has to go eating up knife life .
Get some cheap old well used knives ( new cheap knives are often chemically sharpened i think and the steel HT wont actually support a burr) and learn how to feel the angle and maintain it , refine the grit then how to remove the burr with a regular paddle strop

I really hope I can learn this skill , in the slower summer months.

 

[Bowland blades]

I really hope I can learn this skill , in the slower summer months.

Just come in from the shop now , two knives to sharpen ( i tend to only put the edge on when a knife has a buyer ) . Its really not about kit , its the knowledge of using what you have available and muscle memory . Just remember an oil stone uses " Honing oil " Not Engine oil or gun oil and a water stone needs a good soak . I clamp the stone in a vice with soft jaws and watch as i pour a cap full of honing oil which way it flows to level it .
A few evenings back i was slightly drunk and thought it about time to give our kitchen knives a good going over . i used a cheap set of diamond stones in three grit levels . In the morning i thought i better check what a mess i had made of the job . Surprised me tbf, not as sharp as i might get them fully sober but not needing any attention / correction ( just to emphasize the muscle memory thing ) . Go slow maintain the angle imagine your taking a very thin transparent type slice off the stone first forward then back from the back to the tip and stop abruptly on reaching the tip or you will round is off .
My Sharpening machine i made runs a fine trizac belt in reverse ie running away from you and the principle still applies " keep the angle and stop abruptly " I need my glasses now so i can cleanly see the burr forming , once formed I still switch to the oil stone , then a plain none coated leather strop ( though in fairness it is really not that critically important to strop a good well sharpened deer knife )

 

[jthyttin]

TSProf

There's Ukrainian alternative Hapstone for Russian TSProf.

Professional knife sharpeners - Made by Hapstone

Perfection knife sharpeners for pros & enthusiasts. Achieve perfect edges with Hapstone systems. Sharpen like a pro. Shop now!

hapstone.pro

Be aware that with either system "weak link" is the bit that holds the blade. Different blades require different holders, if the holder doesn't suit (or isn't used properly) the blade will move by tension from the stone and the sides will not be symmetrical.

 

[rem284]

All my dad ever used was the sandstone windowsill but that was just to do a cheap carving knife for the Sunday roast

 

[lambic]

There's Ukrainian alternative Hapstone for Russian TSProf.

Professional knife sharpeners - Made by Hapstone

Perfection knife sharpeners for pros & enthusiasts. Achieve perfect edges with Hapstone systems. Sharpen like a pro. Shop now!

hapstone.pro

Be aware that with either system "weak link" is the bit that holds the blade. Different blades require different holders, if the holder doesn't suit (or isn't used properly) the blade will move by tension from the stone and the sides will not be symmetrical.

Ordered a Hapstone R2 from the Ukraine 5 days ago, hopefully Paypal will protect me if crazy Putin destroys it.

Alledgedly it's the best value decent one

 

[TringSaint]

The diamond stones that came with my Ruixin seem to have worn pretty quickly, they probably did about 20 knives before I noticed that they weren't cutting as well.
I bought some Bacher stones that fit the Edge Pro and they fit perfectly in the Ruixin, I have also some blank aluminium mounting plates on the way from the bay of E and will buy a couple of the unmounted stones for the Edge Pro and put them on the plates.

I don’t use a sharpening system, only a 2 grade flat diamond ‘stone’ and I get mine to shaving sharpness quickly, but you have to wash and scrub the diamond stones every 15-20 sharpens as the metal fragments fill the gaps and it gets too smooth and can’t apply the edge.
Some warm soapy water and a nail brush soon removes all of the crap and it’s back to new.
I have been doing this with the same, relatively cheap, Taylor’s eye witness ‘stone’ for about 10 years now and it works perfectly for me.

 

[Will the chippy]

If your happy to spend good money then get the British made Robert sorry pro edge. I bought it to sharpen chisels etc but knives and all sorts can be done. Easy to set up and get a scary sharp edge. Much easier to use than a tormek but similar money

 

[Antonyweeks]

Just come in from the shop now , two knives to sharpen ( i tend to only put the edge on when a knife has a buyer ) . Its really not about kit , its the knowledge of using what you have available and muscle memory . Just remember an oil stone uses " Honing oil " Not Engine oil or gun oil and a water stone needs a good soak . I clamp the stone in a vice with soft jaws and watch as i pour a cap full of honing oil which way it flows to level it .
A few evenings back i was slightly drunk and thought it about time to give our kitchen knives a good going over . i used a cheap set of diamond stones in three grit levels . In the morning i thought i better check what a mess i had made of the job . Surprised me tbf, not as sharp as i might get them fully sober but not needing any attention / correction ( just to emphasize the muscle memory thing ) . Go slow maintain the angle imagine your taking a very thin transparent type slice off the stone first forward then back from the back to the tip and stop abruptly on reaching the tip or you will round is off .
My Sharpening machine i made runs a fine trizac belt in reverse ie running away from you and the principle still applies " keep the angle and stop abruptly " I need my glasses now so i can cleanly see the burr forming , once formed I still switch to the oil stone , then a plain none coated leather strop ( though in fairness it is really not that critically important to strop a good well sharpened deer knife )

Hi
Out of interest what angle do you use for stalking knives?
Cheers
Ant

 

[Bowland blades]

Hi
Out of interest what angle do you use for stalking knives?
Cheers
Ant

I dont know , like most professional makers its done hand and eye and muscle memory - you end up just doing not thinking , its the same as sharpening drill bits free hand , its only complicated through the first 100 or so and the boss gives you a big box to sort and you learn by the end of a couple of weeks making a mess lol . I just look for the burr raising in the correct way . Dont use grinding jigs when on the belt putting the bevels on on a full flat grind either ( another question that gets asked )

 

[Precision123]

Hi
Out of interest what angle do you use for stalking knives?
Cheers
Ant

Largely depends on the quality of the steel and what you're using it for.
If the bevel is too shallow, say -15, and you're hitting bone or hacking away and knocking the edge, then it probably won't last very long.
If there is very little good steel behind the cutting edge then it won't last long either.
A broad bevel, say 25+, if polished will perform better, for longer, than a fine piece of jaggedy nonsense.
So it's a balance of steel quality, intended use and your maintenance. My kitchen knives get sharpened/polished weekly or if/when they don't feel right. So my 'blunt' is probably better than your 'sharp'. It's all relative.
Thinking that you're removing a translucent, micron thin layer away is a great way of thinking.
That's the long answer. The short one is how it was made - the angle it came with. Rarely can you improve on how it was originally designed. I do have a folding Buck that is way sharper than factory but don't ask me what the angle is - it's more by feel than anything else.

You are not sharpening a knife but polishing a blade, young warrior...

 

[stevestalker]

I use a robert sorby pro edge a very good robust tool tha does a great job
( dont get the diamond belt expensive rubbish )
Steve