Zeroing A Thermal Scope

kieran222

Well-Known Member
To zero a thermal scope I use a cross shaped target made from a horizontal and vertical strip of tin foil about 8mm thick. It is visible when placed on cardboard and facing the sun. It gives a good precise and visible target for the thermal. Much better than a square or round piece of foil or heat patch.
 
To zero a thermal scope I use a cross shaped target made from a horizontal and vertical strip of tin foil about 8mm thick. It is visible when placed on cardboard and facing the sun. It gives a good precise and visible target for the thermal. Much better than a square or round piece of foil or heat patch.
The splat targets are very good to use for zeroing thermals cheap and very easy to use and like you say faced towards the sun
 
Are thermals accurate?
When I first got my clive ward T ceptor thermal I made a few oophas on zeroing, but now I have it on 3 calibers and it never misses a beat I think patience is the key and I did have a lot of help from clive ward initially to set it up, now it’s brilliant
 
‘Hot hands’ hand warmers - air activated, approx 2”x1” & only 69p for two from B&M (or £4 for 10 from Tesco)!! They are filled with a dry chemical mix but the outer bag material easily withstands 2-3 shots without excess spillage & still stands out perfectly. Fix em to your target with a drawing pin.

Works every time for me & find them way better than foil etc👍
IMG_3278.webp
 
‘Hot hands’ hand warmers - air activated, approx 2”x1” & only 69p for two from B&M (or £4 for 10 from Tesco)!! They are filled with a dry chemical mix but the outer bag material easily withstands 2-3 shots without excess spillage & still stands out perfectly. Fix em to your target with a drawing pin.

Works every time for me & find them way better than foil etc👍
View attachment 455575
I find these types of target are too fuzzy at 100m with a thermal to get zero very accurate. Using the thin foil strip is far better, as long as your reticle covers the heat from the thin strips of foil you know you have the target in the centre of the cross hairs. The key is to keep the foil width as thin as possible.
I have tried the heat patches and couldn't get the accuracy I wanted for head shooting.
 
I find these types of target are too fuzzy at 100m with a thermal to get zero very accurate. Using the thin foil strip is far better, as long as your reticle covers the heat from the thin strips of foil you know you have the target in the centre of the cross hairs. The key is to keep the foil width as thin as possible.
I have tried the heat patches and couldn't get the accuracy I wanted for head shooting.
With regards to accuracy I’ll often fold the heat pouches in half which gives approx 1” square target that stands out crystal clear with my Thermion at 100m? If I can get 3 shots in that (or very close to bearing in mind rifle/ammunition tolerance & my own ‘variable’ ability🤣) then it’s job done for me…… 1 MOA is all I’ve ever needed with my stalking rifle.

Interesting to read that you’re find passive foil better than an active emitter? I certainly haven’t had the same results but good to compare diffetent experiences👍
 
I just use some pre cut 25mm foil squares

Put one on shoot 2 rounds at that, then go down to the target and then put another foil square in the centre of the shot group before going back to the rifle and adjusting the X and Y

Fire another group to confirm zero
 
Don't know but I personally feel for checking thermal often. Easy way then is to just to stick a heat patch on a cardboard thing and place it 50 m out and then use recticle 'dot' on scope. The 'dot' more or less covers the patch and POI must be in patch. If there is a need for adjustments then a foil cross is the way to go.
 
So if thermals are accurate is that the end for glass?
They do different things.

Thermals are great for night shooting vermin or culling deer where there is no alternative. But they have limitations. Resolution means it’s much more of a gamble shooting at longer range. Anything past 200m is very iffy on smaller targets. You also struggle to see obstructions clearly - especially small twigs and grass. It can be very hard to judge body angle. It’s not possible to judge wind. And it’s not really possible to dial for elevation.

Glass is (currently) much more precise. It allows you to clearly see both the target and what’s around it. You can see obstructions. You can see wind indicators. You can dial for elevation. You can see body angle much more clearly. You can shoot to whatever distance you’re comfortable with.

I love thermal in the specific context of pest control at night when you have to get numbers. But I much prefer glass when I have the luxury of shooting by day.
 
I used a 25mm aluminium sticky disc, tried heating it up but it started to “melt”. I could see it easily enough without the heat. Didn’t move it enough, next three shots were on target. All done at a 100 yards
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