paul o'
Well-Known Member
bloody good idea
Stuck bore snake
- Thread starter bigkimbo
- Start date
Are the ones people have had problems with genuine Hoppes Boresnakes or copies? Was the OP's friend's one correct for .270 or had he picked up the wrong one?
Where did it break?
I ask because none of my bore snakes (.22 .308 x 2 .410 12 bore) are so tight that they would be anywhere near breaking through normal use...the joint between snake and draw cord maybe the weak point, but the .308 snake itself is 760mm (30") and therefore longer than the barrel so in that instance you can always get hold of one end or the other. With my 580mm (23") OAL .308 barrel the brush section has cleared the muzzle before the loop has disappeared into the chamber and there is very little resistance to the non-brush part.
Puzzled...
Alan
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I think the problem arises - and no less so with rod & patch - when you introduce a poorly lubricated snake to a newly and possibly significantly fouled bore on the FIRST pass.
K
K
The shotgun one that I had break was a copy/non-branded one, and it broke at the join between cord and "snake". It needed a hell of a pull, too. The two I have for rifles and my 12 bore are hoppes ones and they go through with little resistance. Maybe I should stop being cheap...
Me too.
CCB
Well-Known Member
Had it happen to me, 3 days before going to croatia! the Hoppes snake didnt snap, it seemed to pull through ok, then the internals pulled tight once it passed the chamber, the outer woven part became slack, so the more i pulled the tighter it became, similar to what can happen with boot laces that separate! it was a nightmare! no cleaning rod would move it either! far to tight! i filled the barrel with nearly a full can of WD40 and left it to soak, i then went and wrapped the remaining end around the vice on my bench! and pulled the complete rifle! it came out! with some effort!
My advice? inspect the boresnake regulary, or just dont use one! be warned! i was lucky!
My advice? inspect the boresnake regulary, or just dont use one! be warned! i was lucky!
Ranger22
Well-Known Member
Must of been the same one that told me never to use them
jimmy milnes
Well-Known Member
I have a bore snake that always comes on my trips stalking, it's a .25cal and I use it in my 6.5 to take any moisture out the barrel after a stalk. Wouldn't ever use solvents near them as would imagine that would weaken the cord.
Jimmy
Jimmy
kenbro
Well-Known Member
I carry a 243 cal one for emergencies in my 257 cal.
Ken.
PS. I do have a .25 calibre genuine Boresnake and the only time i tried it, i had to wrap the thin cord around a piece of broom handle to get enough purchase to pull it through the second half of the barrel.
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hairlesshunter
Well-Known Member
I would try decent air compressor with an air gun and try to blow it out
Ps not one that takes pellets
Ps not one that takes pellets
Over the last 5 or 6 years a number of people on here have quoted that they were told by a rifle smith that he has made a fortune getting bore snakes out of barrels. I hadn't read that he reckons they ruin them as well.
The really strange thing is that everyone is always quoting the same rifle smith, one Callum Ferguson (spelling?) and that no other rifle smiths ever seem to chip in and say "same here". I really get the impression Mr. Ferguson has a slightly skewed view of bore snakes, and seems to be on a bit of a one-man crusade.
Alan
LeftHandGuy
Well-Known Member
I would do it more or less the same way you would slug a bore, good tutorial here:
Mosin Nagant Rifle Bore Slugging Tutorial
Short lengths of dowel, a vice and a rubber mallet. No idea if it would work, but I'd sooner do that than use burning lighter fluid.
Mosin Nagant Rifle Bore Slugging Tutorial
Short lengths of dowel, a vice and a rubber mallet. No idea if it would work, but I'd sooner do that than use burning lighter fluid.
enfieldspares
Well-Known Member
You would remove it the same way that a stuck British Army pullthrough was removed. A steel rod, of less than bore diameter, much less, with a hook in the end. If you haven't a steel rod a flat piece of steel with the end pointed and some way behind the point a hook cut into the steel. Or else as they removed wadding and or/bullet from muzzleloading shot guns or rifles in old by using a rod with a "worm" on the end of it. A worm being basically like a two coiled spring with the end opens and sharpened to grip the wad. For a bullet it was basically a bloomin great woodscrew on the end of a rod. Screw it in an pull out. Google images of muzzleloader worm.
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Was yours old or had it started to fray?
Had you washed it many times?
Did you continue to pull it out of the muzzle or reverse it out of the chamber?
It sounds from your description that the draw cord broke inside the woven part...as far as I can see on mine the draw cord goes down through the woven tube part past the brush area and is then sewed to the woven part behind the brush, is that where yours gave way but was still attached at the mouth of the woven tube so all the strain came onto the woven outer?
Alan
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