Tikka Bullpup

[Dr Spin]

No offense taken. Years ago I ordered a Crapahute Bullpup Rifle but could not get one due to the makers health problems. 2 shooters I know from the BDS had them and loved them for stalking. Tried a Steyr Aug at Low Mill Ranges but was not impressed with the plasticy feel and horrible trigger. I have a Bradley M4 AR15 and Marlin 30-30 Lever Action which are both short and quick to shoot but wanted to finally have a true bullpup. The Israeli Defence Force have the Tavor, French the Famas, British SA80 and Dutch the Steyr so there must be some advantage to it? For Hardwood stalking and maybe in the car I can see an improvement in speed rather than get the rifle off your shoulder, maybe put shooting sticks out or a bipod. As I mentioned in a previous post MK Engineering in America seems to have finally solved all the problems that plagued Bullpups.
As I get older constantly hoicking the rifle sling back on the shoulder, feel as the barrel and moderator starts tilting backwards as I walk gets a bit wearing. This rifle feels good in the shoulder with the majority of its (lighter) weight concentrated at that end and a lot easier to carry especially through dense woodland. Once completed I will be able to try it out and give some feedback instead of pure conjecture.

 

[Heym SR20]

Looks are really handy little rifle.

 

[Rusty Gate]

Can’t help wondering,
What is the point? No offense meant

I'm on the same page

 

[David T]

Can’t help wondering,
What is the point? No offense meant

Guess it’s because he has the skills, the time and wants to.

 

[User00003]

Guess it’s because he has the skills, the time and wants to.

I actually meant that constructively,
as in ‘what does a Bullpup actually do’ that is beneficial over a a standard CF..wasn’t being judgemental

 

[David T]

I actually meant that constructively,
as in ‘what does a Bullpup actually do’ that is beneficial over a a standard CF..wasn’t being judgemental

No worries,

 

[suburban bushwacker]

The new trigger will be simply a trigger or push button (as Pfeiffer Waffen bullpup) linked through a channel in the stock by a carbon fibre rod to the original Tikka trigger. Since shots will be normally below 100yd and quick fire a low trigger weight is not a top priority. Bullpups (especially military versions) have notoriously bad triggers so I haven't got a lot to beat. I discounted buying a Steyr Aug because of that. ideally I would love to use a Daystate electronic trigger unit but expense and engineering ruled that one out. Ironically a new US company called MK engineering have just brought out a new Bullpup chassis and working with Timney have a custom trigger unit that can be set as low as 3 ounces!! See link MK2 Bullpup Chassis – MK Machining

WOW that's overdue, suspect it will be a hit at Midnight Sun Rifle Challenge

 

[kenbro]

My current project in progress - bullpup my old T3 308. The stock was from an AirArms S410 and I originally bought it to convert my Ruger 10/22 but thought if I'm doing all this work I want to do it on my 308. I have had to plug the middle stock screw hole and hole for the pressure gauge. Front stock screw inletting to be completed. These are all to be reshaped when I sand and revarnish the stock. Next jobs - fit a trigger and carbon fibre connecting rod to the original unit now housed in the stock, mount a forward picatinny rail and a cheek piece over the top of the picatinny rail. I normally use the gun with an Ase Utra moderator which I intend to replace with a lighter mod to maximise the handling. Any (sensible) suggestions welcome. Dr S





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I like Bullpups. Yours looks very nice.
Wish I’d kept my Pfeifer Waffen.
Ken.

 

[Dr Spin]

I like Bullpups. Yours looks very nice.
Wish I’d kept my Pfeifer Waffen.
Ken.

Like the look of the Pfeifer Waffen. I am interested in how your found the rifle, Ken? ie single shot, reloading and the safety and trigger set -up?

 

[kenbro]

Dr Spin,
I think the PW Bullpup is very well made and mine was very accurate.
26 inch barrel and 27.5 inch overall length.
I like single shot rifles and though the reload might have been slightly slower than say a Ruger #1 it wasn’t an issue for me.
Very easy for me to pass on a shot that I couldn’t be as certain as possible that the first shot would the one. We all know things don’t always go to plan and though I only started deer hunting 16 years ago I’ve never needed a quick 2nd shot.
Most of my shooting was from high seats and doing a reload up there was never an issue.
I like the cocking mechanism which I think is very safe, with no need to have it cocked until you’re sure as can be of a
shot. The button trigger was very acceptable to me with a nice let off.
Mine was 6PPC calibre (Think its owner before me was a SD member) and even though it loaded up to deer legal I would have kept it had it been a bigger capacity cartridge.
Not many people want them, so, I was able to buy it cheap and sell it even cheaper!
As said before...wish I’d kept it, but that’s the story of my life....the Manx Norton I sold for 6 quid being the most regretful decision I made!
Regards,Ken.

 

[Dr Spin]

Hi Ken,
That 6PPC would have done me for Roe up here in Scotland. The only one I found for sale was a PW in .204. Very good of you only taking a shot if can be as certain as possible that would be the one. I remember buying my first moped at 16 a Raleigh Runabout for £3 and selling it for £10.
Cheers John

 

[Dr Spin]

Latest update from my Bullpup build. The trigger connection took many hours of work I have found carbon fibre rod comes in very variable quality some with precious little fibre in it. Finally found some really good stuff from a good model shop which is very rigid. I have upped the diameter from 3mm to 4mm to help stop flexing with not much cost in space and weight. I have a large box full of carbon rod, bits of aluminium sheet, RC model parts and M3 and M4 nuts and bolts of all types and lengths! On the actual trigger, my Tikka trigger the pull was set at 3.5lbs and with the extension mechanism fitted to the front trigger the Tikka Trigger still required only 3.5LB to work which is a good sign. When I measured the trigger pull of the front trigger this averaged about 6LB which not unexpectedly I wanted to reduce. I lowered the trigger pull of the Tikka to 2LB which gives 3.5Lb at the front trigger. I will shoot it at that before I do any more and see how it feels. I did drill a new pivot hole in the front trigger making it longer at the trigger end and shorter at the connection end to increase the mechanical advantage. Got it so the front trigger pull was down to 2Lb but at the cost of a much longer trigger pull! I decided to keep the old pivot point and its back to 3.5LB. Once I have tried it I will make a new trigger to the right dimensions and reduce some of the aluminium parts in size and weight.
Made a new Cheek piece by using some Das modelling clay on top of the action then placed my face on it till my eye was centred on the scope. I allowed the clay to dry and made the piece of walnut to the same dimensions. I wanted to keep my cheek as low down to the action as possible to keep the scope height as low as I could. If this cheekpiece works I will shape it at the ends to make it look a bit better. The scope is sitting quite forward now so I don't need the heavier moderator to balance the heavier butt end as suggested instead I will go with a lighter mod. I have attached a picture of it with a 1.5-6 power scope and also an Eotech Holographic sight with a 3x magnifier which has a flip to side attachment and try them both for stalking.
A lot modifications were also done to the stock. The original action screw hole and pressure gauge holes were plugged. New action screws were drilled and a single shot plate made to fit up inside the breech. I intend to add a cartridge holder to the side of the stock next to the breech. The stock came with an adjustable butt plate which allowed me to use that to drop it down to my shoulder. I re-stained, oiled and waxed the woodwork with Slippery Dicks Stock Finishing Kit which was great stuff to use and very effective.
I have a debt of thanks to Wallace McCrea of Turnright Galloway who made the scope rail mounts and machined the picatinny rail to fit them. The front post was originally made to fit round the air chamber of an Air rifle so the hole was far too big. Wallace made a steel spacer which was a tight push fit on the barrel ( which is tapered at that point ) and extended the grub screw holes so they ran through the spacer and gripped the barrel. He turned the rear post and fitted it an Optilock scope mount that is attached to the original scope rail of the Tikka action. he also welded 2 extensions pieces on the trigger mechanism and machined them to fit. Everything is rock solid. I couldn't have done it without him and its a perfect job.
Next stage shoot it at the range see how the new stock and trigger feel. Then chrono the new shorter barrel and work up a load with lighter bullets say 125gr doing reduced speed of about 2800fps. Thanks for reading.

 

[Dr Spin]

How do you make the trigger mechanism work? Have you managed to achieve a crisp break?

Sorry for late reply I have just read your question. From my latest photo you can see the mechanism which is very similar to those on Air Rifle Bullpups. Most use Clevis Forks from radio control models to fit at either end of the connecting rod which I thought wasn't strong enough for a fullbore so I used aluminium brackets that can swivel to reduce any flex in the carbon fibre rod. If everything is fitted right then the break will be nearly as crisp as the original trigger but it will always be the Achilles heel of most bullpups. As I have mentioned MK Machining seem to have solved the problem by working with Timney triggers with a custom trigger designed for Bullpups. I have used a nylon roller to contact the trigger blade and there is a bit of takeup before the break the last thing you want is the rifle to fire as you close the bolt handle. Its a lot better than my Marlin 336 which are known for their loose trigger.