Wall-mounted game hoist?

[IP freely]

Thinking about making a game hoist from stainless steel tube, and fixing to external wall; this will help me learn to skin deer etc.

has anyone had experience of this? A fabricator mate can help with the frame and welding, but I’m weighing up a boat winch with pullies vs. a simple rope and pulley hoist. The winch would likely be fixed and so would need to be weatherproof. Any suggestions?

 

[Tim.243]

Thinking about making a game hoist from stainless steel tube, and fixing to external wall; this will help me learn to skin deer etc.

has anyone had experience of this? A fabricator mate can help with the frame and welding, but I’m weighing up a boat winch with pullies vs. a simple rope and pulley hoist. The winch would likely be fixed and so would need to be weatherproof. Any suggestions?

I would make it from mild steel box 3>5mm floor plate with a pivot on the floor plate, one above off 5mm plate brackets. Simple Jib type set up, pulleys slung under the jib it you have no height issues.
Boat winch with stainless 4mm wire.
Prime paint the m/steel
One thing is a hook rod/eye to lock it where you want to work so the jib stays still, nothing worse than the thing swinging around/sharp knives....

Also builders ACRO prop has all the elements there if you found one...floor plate big tube with one fitting in it..

Tim.243

 

[enfieldspares]

Surely the choice of pulley depends on the weight of the deer?

Design the equipment around the weight and size of the expected carcass.

Big red or sika will require something than if it's just muntjac.

Which, muntjac, won't really need any pulley at all if needs must.

 

[Eric the Red]

Be careful with choice of pulley and winch - there is a difference. A purpose made bracket is £30 odd on the BayofE at the mo - and a 250kg vertical lift electric winch c£60

 

[Tim.243]

Surely the choice of pulley depends on the weight of the deer?

Design the equipment around the weight and size of the expected carcass.

Big red or sika will require something than if it's just muntjac.

Which, muntjac, won't really need any pulley at all if needs must.

One would hang a MJ off a couple of 6" nails....mine never twiched with a 2 1/2 cwt anvil also a 150kg Boer hanging off it.....

Most internet advice is given from around the fringes, not from kit people make and use which works....




Tim.243

 

[enfieldspares]

Yes. I did my muntjac off a tree branch in the garden. Same tree branch I do my pheasants off.

 

[deerstalker.308]

Alternatively you could do what I’ve done and buy one of donington deer management tow ball hoists and simply mount a tow ball to your wall, then you also have something you could (should you want to) use in the field as well.....

 

[Freeforester]

Tim .243 said "One thing is a hook rod/eye to lock it where you want to work so the jib stays still, nothing worse than the thing swinging around/sharp knives...."

This is totally correct, and important imv. If at all possible best to work off some sort of fixed rather than swivelling hook also, as the latter is a complete pita when working on the carcass, best avoided imo. My skinning hook hangs from a simple hole drilled in the lower flange of the I-beam, the hoist is sat above the I-beam on a separate short section. I know your planning an outdoor unit, but show pic only to illustrate what I mean about both these points mentioned:


Showing left to right: hoist control, hoist hook, with hoist set above I-beam, door track with pulleys and hooks to send carcass into cold room, and longer, fixed carcass skinning hook.

Height is also your friend, it's easier to make a longer (or shorter) hook than to dig a hole to stand and skin in, lol!
Boat hand winch will work fine, save some electric and help tone your muscles!

 

[Miki]

Mechanical advantage of 2 pulleys and a bit of rope.
Attach a pulley to something high up, put a cambrel on the second pulley.
Thread the rope through the first pulley, through the second and then tie it off next to the first 'high up' one.

Pull down on the rope, the deer will lift. Pull the deer higher than you need. Tie something large enough not to go through the first pulley to the rope, then let it up to the pulley.

Skin away, pull the rope down, remove the stick (whatever) and let he carcass down.

 

[Overlay]

The pulley I've got for the field is two piece first part is a long rope with a pulley on one end and a small hard rubber ball on the other, this one gets used for muntie and Roe, easy peasy, the second part is a 2 runner double (as in two pulleys) that give a considerable more lifting power for big fallow ( it hoists them up with ease) using thing the ball get the first pulley high up
The first pulley sling over a high limb and attach the large pulley system on a S hook up to where you want too hoist to height wise paying out the rope fix the small pulley to a tree and use the large pulley to hoist the bigguns, no longer due you have a beast with its head and neck on the ground, if you do the external check , back legs and release and tie of the Anal end you can complete a full gralloch without bending over, the height is the key

Half the problem with deer is getting them off the ground high enough, the kit all folds back up in a carry bag and a joy to use and a considerable help as it's getting dark

 

[Tim.243]

Tim .243 said "One thing is a hook rod/eye to lock it where you want to work so the jib stays still, nothing worse than the thing swinging around/sharp knives...."

This is totally correct, and important imv. If at all possible best to work off some sort of fixed rather than swivelling hook also, as the latter is a complete pita when working on the carcass, best avoided imo. My skinning hook hangs from a simple hole drilled in the lower flange of the I-beam, the hoist is sat above the I-beam on a separate short section. I know your planning an outdoor unit, but show pic only to illustrate what I mean about both these points mentioned:

View attachment 143247
Showing left to right: hoist control, hoist hook, with hoist set above I-beam, door track with pulleys and hooks to send carcass into cold room, and longer, fixed carcass skinning hook.

Height is also your friend, it's easier to make a longer (or shorter) hook than to dig a hole to stand and skin in, lol!
Boat hand winch will work fine, save some electric and help tone your muscles!

Thank you, also any 240 winch and outside! It is only a deer.!

If I have to make one the Acro prop suggestion will be put in place as the smaller tube can easy be lifted up/down on the pin holes they have....

Tim

 

[sauer]

Dad did one for side of garage

Does roe and had a 95kg red off it but bit low to ground for big lads ... the pulley is a silver line 6:1 offf evilbay for bout 7 quid & rated to 140kg I think .... on side of hoist is like a boat clear arrangement to lock off once at height
Also as this one swing left / swivels just a hook and eye to lock in position stop swing about as Steve mentioned earlier with sharp knives

Or

At the bothy another hoist .... same 6:1 silver line pulley arrangement but put high enough so that can hoist up to work around a reds neck without crawling on my knees in puddles
This one has boat winch at waist height .
Reverse argo up hoist straight out and work away

L

Paul

 

[deeangeo]

Electric winch .. definitely the way to go......sooooo much easier

 

[IP freely]

Dad did one for side of garage

Does roe and had a 95kg red off it but bit low to ground for big lads ... the pulley is a silver line 6:1 offf evilbay for bout 7 quid & rated to 140kg I think .... on side of hoist is like a boat clear arrangement to lock off once at height
Also as this one swing left / swivels just a hook and eye to lock in position stop swing about as Steve mentioned earlier with sharp knives

Or

At the bothy another hoist .... same 6:1 silver line pulley arrangement but put high enough so that can hoist up to work around a reds neck without crawling on my knees in puddles
This one has boat winch at waist height .
Reverse argo up hoist straight out and work away

L

Paul

That’s exactly what I had in mind. Cheers. Are the pulley runners welded to the frame?

this is for roe muntjac and fallow

 

[Tim.243]

That’s exactly what I had in mind. Cheers. Are the pulley runners welded to the frame?

this is for roe muntjac and fallow

If you hang the pulleys underneath there is no reason not to drill the box section and use 25x6mm flat as a method to hold the pulley. If you weld them you can set them just over the width of the pulley so no need for spacers..

That will work in the previous pictures, check the wall you are going to fix to, single skin or 9"
There is always a weak point so make sure you allow for it, single end gable wall etc.
Big Fallow Buck sub 150kg or changing the 110 engine again lol

Take your time and post the result

Tim

 

[sauer]

The poly rollers in mine are kit on with couple logs welded on ....

We have had couple 85kg stag on it now ... reverse argo up and straight up .....

With the boat winch and 6:1 pulley takes 2-3 minutes winding to get it up but it’s effortless and make sure winch mounted far enough out so comfortably DONT graze knuckles off wall .

Even when put winch onto free wheel / lift ratchet to lower it doesn’t speed n down out of control ....

We put some slabs down roughly underneath so can throw buckets rain water down clean area and so your not standing in muddy dubs.

This bothy is 3 miles up side of a hill

Paul

 

[TITANIUM]

Consider using Unistrut - pretty robust stuff. Cut to your own requirements, bolt together and no welding etc. Just a suggestion.