Latest update from my Bullpup build. The trigger connection took many hours of work I have found carbon fibre rod comes in very variable quality some with precious little fibre in it. Finally found some really good stuff from a good model shop which is very rigid. I have upped the diameter from 3mm to 4mm to help stop flexing with not much cost in space and weight. I have a large box full of carbon rod, bits of aluminium sheet, RC model parts and M3 and M4 nuts and bolts of all types and lengths! On the actual trigger, my Tikka trigger the pull was set at 3.5lbs and with the extension mechanism fitted to the front trigger the Tikka Trigger still required only 3.5LB to work which is a good sign. When I measured the trigger pull of the front trigger this averaged about 6LB which not unexpectedly I wanted to reduce. I lowered the trigger pull of the Tikka to 2LB which gives 3.5Lb at the front trigger. I will shoot it at that before I do any more and see how it feels. I did drill a new pivot hole in the front trigger making it longer at the trigger end and shorter at the connection end to increase the mechanical advantage. Got it so the front trigger pull was down to 2Lb but at the cost of a much longer trigger pull! I decided to keep the old pivot point and its back to 3.5LB. Once I have tried it I will make a new trigger to the right dimensions and reduce some of the aluminium parts in size and weight.
Made a new Cheek piece by using some Das modelling clay on top of the action then placed my face on it till my eye was centred on the scope. I allowed the clay to dry and made the piece of walnut to the same dimensions. I wanted to keep my cheek as low down to the action as possible to keep the scope height as low as I could. If this cheekpiece works I will shape it at the ends to make it look a bit better. The scope is sitting quite forward now so I don't need the heavier moderator to balance the heavier butt end as suggested instead I will go with a lighter mod. I have attached a picture of it with a 1.5-6 power scope and also an Eotech Holographic sight with a 3x magnifier which has a flip to side attachment and try them both for stalking.
A lot modifications were also done to the stock. The original action screw hole and pressure gauge holes were plugged. New action screws were drilled and a single shot plate made to fit up inside the breech. I intend to add a cartridge holder to the side of the stock next to the breech. The stock came with an adjustable butt plate which allowed me to use that to drop it down to my shoulder. I re-stained, oiled and waxed the woodwork with Slippery Dicks Stock Finishing Kit which was great stuff to use and very effective.
I have a debt of thanks to Wallace McCrea of Turnright Galloway who made the scope rail mounts and machined the picatinny rail to fit them. The front post was originally made to fit round the air chamber of an Air rifle so the hole was far too big. Wallace made a steel spacer which was a tight push fit on the barrel ( which is tapered at that point ) and extended the grub screw holes so they ran through the spacer and gripped the barrel. He turned the rear post and fitted it an Optilock scope mount that is attached to the original scope rail of the Tikka action. he also welded 2 extensions pieces on the trigger mechanism and machined them to fit. Everything is rock solid. I couldn't have done it without him and its a perfect job.
Next stage shoot it at the range see how the new stock and trigger feel. Then chrono the new shorter barrel and work up a load with lighter bullets say 125gr doing reduced speed of about 2800fps. Thanks for reading.
Made a new Cheek piece by using some Das modelling clay on top of the action then placed my face on it till my eye was centred on the scope. I allowed the clay to dry and made the piece of walnut to the same dimensions. I wanted to keep my cheek as low down to the action as possible to keep the scope height as low as I could. If this cheekpiece works I will shape it at the ends to make it look a bit better. The scope is sitting quite forward now so I don't need the heavier moderator to balance the heavier butt end as suggested instead I will go with a lighter mod. I have attached a picture of it with a 1.5-6 power scope and also an Eotech Holographic sight with a 3x magnifier which has a flip to side attachment and try them both for stalking.
A lot modifications were also done to the stock. The original action screw hole and pressure gauge holes were plugged. New action screws were drilled and a single shot plate made to fit up inside the breech. I intend to add a cartridge holder to the side of the stock next to the breech. The stock came with an adjustable butt plate which allowed me to use that to drop it down to my shoulder. I re-stained, oiled and waxed the woodwork with Slippery Dicks Stock Finishing Kit which was great stuff to use and very effective.
I have a debt of thanks to Wallace McCrea of Turnright Galloway who made the scope rail mounts and machined the picatinny rail to fit them. The front post was originally made to fit round the air chamber of an Air rifle so the hole was far too big. Wallace made a steel spacer which was a tight push fit on the barrel ( which is tapered at that point ) and extended the grub screw holes so they ran through the spacer and gripped the barrel. He turned the rear post and fitted it an Optilock scope mount that is attached to the original scope rail of the Tikka action. he also welded 2 extensions pieces on the trigger mechanism and machined them to fit. Everything is rock solid. I couldn't have done it without him and its a perfect job.
Next stage shoot it at the range see how the new stock and trigger feel. Then chrono the new shorter barrel and work up a load with lighter bullets say 125gr doing reduced speed of about 2800fps. Thanks for reading.
