Rifles for Cape Buffalo

Seeing as we are all posting pictures here’s my 375 H&H
 

Attachments

  • 59F9861C-3C10-453B-B001-66C496C85706.webp
    59F9861C-3C10-453B-B001-66C496C85706.webp
    518.4 KB · Views: 67
  • F80F7882-6BFE-4EA5-A1E8-DA957365EF86.webp
    F80F7882-6BFE-4EA5-A1E8-DA957365EF86.webp
    470.6 KB · Views: 68
  • 9466226B-ED3F-4D9D-A885-CD97132F58D0.webp
    9466226B-ED3F-4D9D-A885-CD97132F58D0.webp
    508.8 KB · Views: 60
Gents, not wanting to hijack the thread in anyway, but it looks like we have some medium/big bore experience on this thread.

I have a "sleeper" 375 zkk 602 in the cabinet It is very accurate, but the action is a bit rough, the extractor collar is rough and it has the strange straight trigger. Does anyone have any experience of modifying this make and model of rifle to make them a bit more user friendly?

Cheers,

Mike

The Brno 602 is a very well respected rifle. A bit agricultural but very functional. I have to ask, does it have the pop up rear peep sight in the action?

Generally they seem to come together if you put a bit of time into polishing out the rough bits. I'm no expert there, but it's certainly possible and a common thing to do. Trigger I'm not so sure about. I think it's quite a complex unit to work on.
 
The trigger can be replaced with a curved blade but the trigger unit is quite different as it’s attached to the bottom metal so I don’t know of an aftermarket option. General they are quite useable by turn off the set trigger and fettleing the set of the standard unit there will be some creep but quite usable.

As to the roughness they benefit from some polishing and deburring.

It’s a good strong reliable rifle though.
 
Then Zkk 600's came with both the straight set trigger, and the curved normal trigger, as part of the deal. I changed mine to the normal curved trigger, and got a Gunsmith the fettle the trigger pull, as it was heavier than I wanted. As has been said, they are a bit"agricultural" when straight from the factory, but a bit of time spent fettleing by a Rifle smith can make it excellent.
 
There are some nice aftermarket trigger and safety options available via American Hunting Rifles. I’m not sure if import would be straightforward with ITAR but it should be feasible.


 
Ive heard the Timney trigger for CZ 550 is better then what AHR offers from two different users who has owned/used both.


Magnum Hansen in Norway makes 3p safety for CZ 550 or 602
327_901421551.jpg
 
I didn’t come across that company before, thanks for that. Agreed the Timney is probably better for the 550 but they don’t do a 602 trigger as far as I know. Unless I have missed something else!!
 
The Brno 602 is a very well respected rifle. A bit agricultural but very functional. I have to ask, does it have the pop up rear peep sight in the action?

Generally they seem to come together if you put a bit of time into polishing out the rough bits. I'm no expert there, but it's certainly possible and a common thing to do. Trigger I'm not so sure about. I think it's quite a complex unit to work on.

Ive heard the Timney trigger for CZ 550 is better then what AHR offers from two different users who has owned/used both.


Magnum Hansen in Norway makes 3p safety for CZ 550 or 602
327_901421551.jpg

There are some nice aftermarket trigger and safety options available via American Hunting Rifles. I’m not sure if import would be straightforward with ITAR but it should be feasible.



Thanks to those that replied to my question - looks like I have some options to look at. The rifle is older than me, but I would really like to take a buffalo with it one day.

I do like the look of that 3 position safety!
 
It’s not difficult to smooth up the inside of an action. Midway USA has some good videos on how to do it.

Unless truly rough, start with 300 grit, move to 600 then 1200 and the green polishing paste. Making polishing sticks out of bits of wood or old files and glue emery / wet and dry paper.

First polish the raceways and underside of the rails where cartridges slide against. Then the ramps.

On the bolt - don’t touch the back of the lugs as that will affect headspace, but the side of the lugs where they contact the sides of the action will need attention.

Cocking cams need to be well polished - best way is to mix a slurry with some oil and open and close the bolt 100 times.

You don’t want to take lots of metal off. Just enough to take the sharp burrs from machining. A little slop in a mauser type action is no bad thing - it allows the action to be cycled even if there is dirt in there.

Be careful on triggers, probably better to swap to say a Timney etc.

And when you test and zero the rifle, do so with a full magazine. Mags have a nasty habit of dropping floor plates, or dropping out completely under heavy recoil. And you want to find this out on the range. More than one floor plate has been welded shut for this very reason.

Ditto for sights, mounts etc.

BRNOs/ CZs were action of choice to build heavy stopping rifles for many years. And they smooth up quite nicely.
 
One particular thing... The "retention" ring that holds the claw extractor on the 602.. is better finished then the one on 550. Which results in smoother operation.

So either swap to a 602 one.. or polish the inside of the 550 ring.
 
I was granted a .308 Win for deer at 14, then granted a 300 win mag at 16 along with other assorted calibres.
If you can provide good reason for possessing the calibre and you have suitable land over which to shoot it then they will generally grant it, all be it with a bit of grumbling and groaning!

Ben

I was pointing out that people talk in absolutes, like the chap I was replying to saying that one wouldn't get larger than. 375 for deer in the UK or the many people who say a .243 the max allowed on a first ticket.
 
I haven't read the whole thread.

One of the things that intrigues me is why shooting a Cape Buffalo in the head isn't mandatory. I mean the bloody things are freakin' huge, and they just stand there looking at you. If you can't hit one in the brain, maybe you shoot review your sporting prowess. Maybe switch to pétanque.

Watch that classic film that @johngryphon posted a while back, of the buffalo hunters in the Top End. 308 ball ammo was good enough for them, thousands and thousands of buffs dropped in their tracks, no fuss nor bother.

Yeah yeah I know, but I reckon way more big game "hunters" need new undies after a chest shot that didn't work than they ever would if they just poleaxed the darn thing properly from the get-go.
 
I haven't read the whole thread.

One of the things that intrigues me is why shooting a Cape Buffalo in the head isn't mandatory. I mean the bloody things are freakin' huge, and they just stand there looking at you. If you can't hit one in the brain, maybe you shoot review your sporting prowess. Maybe switch to pétanque.

Watch that classic film that @johngryphon posted a while back, of the buffalo hunters in the Top End. 308 ball ammo was good enough for them, thousands and thousands of buffs dropped in their tracks, no fuss nor bother.

Yeah yeah I know, but I reckon way more big game "hunters" need new undies after a chest shot that didn't work than they ever would if they just poleaxed the darn thing properly from the get-go.
A good bit of the attraction with hunting buff is the fact that you come close to needing to change your undies, brain shoot ing them when standing looking at you can be done in a knackers yard with old dairy cows.
 
Have you check what the minimum calibre is for dangerous game in many countries? It’s 375

would you shoot red deer with a 222 in Great Britain because it’s provide effective in New Zealand?
 
Just my 2p worth but the boss of the horns on the Cape Buffalo is a bit different to the water buffalo. The way they hold their head also seems to be a situation for ricochet central. A lot of seriously good shots have shot a lot of Cape Buffalo and the antipodean experience may not be entirely relevant.

David.
 
A head shot not easy as the brain is relatively small and located low and way back in the head

The brain is surrounded by a honey comb of bone and cartilage with the specific purpose of insulating the brain from shock - it's required in order to protect the animal from the enormous shock impacts that occur when two bull buffalo butt heads

A buff will move its head over quite a range changing the image of the target - in order to ensure a brain shot (as a miss by even an inch will not necessarily be effective) - you mustn't concentrate on the external features but imagine a tennis ball deep within the head - that tennis ball is your target

Side  - shot placement.webp
 
Back
Top