Chainsaw not cutting straight

[jimo]

If you haven’t already got one get a guide that clamps to your file with the correct angle marked on it. One of those made a big difference at my attempts to sharpen mine. I also give the side that feels less easy to sharpen one more stroke of the file and that seems to keep it cutting straight.

 

[Utectok]

New chain first then try then new bar defo fixed then

 

[jcampbellsmith]

Bar needs dressing

and turned over regularly. Regards JCS

 

[willowbank]

I had this problem once I had the chain on backwards and was having to press really hard to get it to cut at all. Never felt so soft.

Hmmm

 

[countrryboy]

For the OP with a new chain 1st thing I'd try is clean the bar groove out, looks full off crud and try chain at correct tension, could be as simple as crud in groove and a slack chain.
Also I take it always cutting to the same side?

Generally with a chainsaw cutting curved is 2 things either chain or bar.


With a new chain even if u hit something I doubt it would cause that. Not suddenly and just once.
It is caused by the cutters being different lengths caused by poor sharpening or rakers at different hieght, which are effectively the deep guages for the cutters.
That is usually caused by sharpening better with ur 'strong'/good hand so just give and extra couple off rubs with ur bad hand.
Correct way is to measure every cutter then take them all down to smallest but no one does that

I take it ur chain is the correct tension??

My advice for hobby sharpening would be to buy a Stihl file holder with both a round and flat file so keeps ur rakers bang on as u do them every sharpen.
U can buy small raker guages for peanuts too that fit on too off ur chain.
But easier just with Stihl 1.

I'd guess most likely the bar in ur case. As others have said ur bar needs dressed, sure plenty off clips online. Think husky used to do a chain sharping vid or chainsaw bars.com? 1 off big online sellers hard some useful bids.
Some internet bids will do more harm than good.

Generally caused by rails not being even, so u want to check both rails are 90 degrees to side of bar, if 1 is lower will throw chain to 1 side or other.
Flat file or bench grind it level. But make sure u are at 90 or u will make problem worse

In ur case looks like bar groove is full off crud, that coupled with a slack chain could be enough to throw it off. U do get bar groove cleaners for couple of quid but any bit of metal/screw driver will do if fits in the groove.
Mind and make sure the 2 holes are clear to let the oil into groove

Also with the bar the burrs in the side need flat filing down so smooth, that usually causes ur bar to 'stick' in timber and just cut fresh air, as ur bar is wider than ur cutting width.
A lot off fencers/farmers saws do that no matter how sharp struggle to cut throu a stab top as sticking on the burrs when far side of bar catches edge.

In theory it could also be a worn sprocket or clutch drum assembly, if internal clutch, but doubtful

Just had a real carry on with my 372 cuting squint)curved all went Pete tong after a harvester dropped a tree on top off it bent bar and chain brake plastics etc.
Thought I managed to straighten bar myself.
New bars and chains later, new handle still cutting squint, turned out to be clutch/sprocket/needle bearing, allowing too much play so when chain under tension throwing it out saw at an angle, which caused the bars grooves to widen/wear again allowing more play.
So just got worse and worse until I figured it out, bloody infuriating when ur saw cuts like that esp when working in big timber and u need cuts to meet. Trying to cross cut 3- 4ft stems when cuts curving oppisate ways from each side done ur head in esp with new chain/bar combo as u knew not operator error.

 

[Minto]

It’s your chain or bar or both. Your bar needs a good clean, clean the oil holes out too. The rails look uneven (file them square). There also looks to be a chip out your bar but that maybe is a shadow in the picture. If its a chip get a new bar. The chain, has it lost the chrome on one side to make it, this will make it dull on one side and cut in a curve rather than straight. If the chrome is away all you can do is file back to a good part of the cutter. You then have to make all the cutters( both sides) all the same length.

 

[User00013]

Thanks folks for the help I think the chain needs looked at with regards to sharpening and making sure it is all filed the same I will look about getting one of those file guides they look a good job and definitely save a lot of hassle, I will look at getting the bar back into good condition, failing that it will be time for a new saw, the question is husqvarna or sthil? That's a dabate for another day!!

 

[VSS]

Thanks folks for the help I think the chain needs looked at with regards to sharpening and making sure it is all filed the same I will look about getting one of those file guides they look a good job and definitely save a lot of hassle, I will look at getting the bar back into good condition, failing that it will be time for a new saw, the question is husqvarna or sthil? That's a dabate for another day!!

To save you waiting for another day, I'll give you the answer now: Husqvarna. Preferably an older one.

 

[rem284]

I would recommend a roller guide for sharpening of the correct size for the chain. Look carefully at a new chain and you should be trying to maintain that sharpness and those angles through careful and correct sharpening. Obviously try and prevent damage to the chain happening in the first place by cutting clean wood and avoiding stones, nails etc. Sometimes i might be giving a chain a light sharpen every fill of fuel if conditions are tough. Keep it sharp, it's easier on the saw and you

 

[countrryboy]

Must admit I doubt it is the chain if the chain is new ( althou usually chain is the main culprit), even if u mullered a nail with a new chain don't think it would cut squint that quick. And chances are u will have mullered both sides if caught it very hard.
Glass for some reason was always the worst thing to hit, takes the crime right off.

Despite being a bit of a husky man ( think got 5 huskies in the van the now) I vowed I wouldn't have another ( and then bought 2 2nd hand at wknd were the right money) I doubt I'll ever but a new 1 again.
Husky have gave up producing decent forestry saws now far better with a Stihl.
Husky 3 series were mainly cracking saws, the new pro 5 series is not
For hobby use u probably don't want a 5 series ( computer controlled carbs) dunno wot the 4 series are like

And esp at hobby levels those ms 170, 171 and 181s are fantastic little saws for small firewood hobby use. Keep chain sharp and bar maintained will run a 14"bar nae bother. And all sub 200 quid
Efco mittox or Makita are all decent enough brands if u get them at the right money.
But those wee stihls are cracking saws for money a lot of fencing crews run and abuse them for years with little maintained and little goes wrong.

Was going to say use decent synthetic 2 stroke oil but for hobby use ur better off using something like aspen fuel doesn't go off so can be left in tank all time with no problems. For hobby use the extra cost will never be noticed

 

[Malxwal]

Account Suspended

At £7.80 including return post it may be hardly worth your while buying a file and learning how to use it...get another couple of chains and have one on the saw one on the shelf, and one being sharpened...

I used these people when I was sawing up a root/butt and hit a ceramic tile that the ash tree had grown around 50 years ago...they managed to rescue both chains...I had no idea why the first one stopped cutting...saved me a lot of filing to get the symmetry back...well worth it.

Alan

£7.80 for what takes about two minutes and is an absolute basic of chainsaw ownership and use ? Chains lose their edge just through basic use over the course of an hour or so.

 

[Alantoo]

£7.80 for what takes about two minutes and is an absolute basic of chainsaw ownership and use ? Chains lose their edge just through basic use over the course of an hour or so.

Yes, given the OP's circumstances, what is the problem?

No way I can sharpen a 20" chain in two minutes, even one just dulled through basic use...let alone redress a damaged one that has tried cutting through a ceramic tile. I take my hat off to you, it takes me longer than that to set up the bar clamp.

Of course sharpening is a basic of chainsaw use...but the OP appears to have damaged a new blade quite severely and a regrind appeared to be a good solution for him, hence my suggestion. You advise that for his first attempt he should not only sharpen, but rebalance a damaged chain?

I don't know how much you value your time or are able to charge for it, but I can earn more than £7.80 in the time it would take me to reclaim the teeth on even a short chain, and it would be doing something far more interesting than filing chain saw teeth, but each to their own.

Alan

 

[countrryboy]

To be fair thou 7.80 is a rip off. Althou mind cutting down south 20 odd years ago and a big saw shop was wanting 9.99 way back then.
Chances are u could buy a new chain cheaper.

I'm buying 15" loops off that new fancy 1.1mm husky X cut chain for 10 quid and it's expensive chain.

Another tip which I should follow myself more often is chuck ur files away when dull, far easier using a new file and look after it, makes it easier to sharpen ur chains right.
With practice ur not long sharpening a chain, I won't be an awful lot longer than a few mins to do a 20" bar.


It wouldn't take many sharpens to pay for a basic training cross cutting course, not 1 to usually recommend courses but saw courses are worth it.

 

[Alantoo]

To be fair thou 7.80 is a rip off. Althou mind cutting down south 20 odd years ago and a big saw shop was wanting 9.99 way back then.
Chances are u could buy a new chain cheaper.

I'm buying 15" loops off that new fancy 1.1mm husky X cut chain for 10 quid and it's expensive chain.

Another tip which I should follow myself more often is chuck ur files away when dull, far easier using a new file and look after it, makes it easier to sharpen ur chains right.
With practice ur not long sharpening a chain, I won't be an awful lot longer than a few mins to do a 20" bar.


It wouldn't take many sharpens to pay for a basic training cross cutting course, not 1 to usually recommend courses but saw courses are worth it.

To be fair £7.80 including VAT and the return postage and packing doesn't seem anything like a rip off to me...a couple of pints of beer, less than a pack of cigarettes, what would you consider a fair price for a 20" regrind and shipping?

Great price at £10 a chain, I envy you your source, it hardly seems worth you sharpening them at all, it must cost your customers more than that for you to sharpen them on their time...the last pair of chains I bought for my Husqvarna last November were £56 including VAT and shipping.

Of course I agree practise of any skill speeds you up...but down to two minutes? From the OP's description we are not talking sharpening, we are talking regrinding and balancing the teeth of damaged chain...really two minutes? even with a sharp file? But fair play, if you believe you can reclaim a chain and send it back for less then £7.80...offer to do the OP's one for him and you can both profit.

I am just puzzled at the negative responses to the regrind suggestion...I sharpen my chains with a file ordinarily, but for a damaged chain it just seemed worth it to get it regularised on a grinder...and I can't see why it would be a bad option given the OP's situation.

Alan

 

[countrryboy]

I thought the OP said it was a brand new chain?

Dear when u ideally would sharpen a chain every fill, that's 7.80 every 30- 40 mins, I usually hold off every 2- 3fills if u look after it

Got me thinking now Alan, going to treat myself to a new file and time myself today, if I mind, felling oversized stuff the day so be on the 20".
Don't think I'll be that much over

 

[Craigsaun]

If buying a new chain , buy a stihl chain , I find they lube the bar better and they have a scribed line on the cutting tooth for you to follow when sharpening . Practis makes perfect

 

[Malxwal]

To be fair Alantoo, if the chain is that badly damaged, yes, by all means send it off to be reconditioned. What I meant was jts a desirable skill and habit to develop to keep the chain edge, akin to giving your knife a quick sharpen and strop rather than waiting for it to become a butter knife.
I don't have a bar clamp, just basic hand files and do it by eye, but the difference in ease of cut after just a brief touch up is definite. If I'd gone to ground with hit and hit a stone etc, yes, it takes more time and work.

 

[User00035]

Husqvarna Combination Gauges

www.toolstoday.co.uk

This little tools are excellent. Note that you need to order the correct gauge for your chain (the gauge and pitch should be inscribed on the bar). Also make sure you're using the correct size file.

If it's a hobby saw used at home, when sharpening clamp the bar in a vice. You can turn it round to do the off-hand side which makes symmetrical sharpening much easier. There are also score makes on the cutters indicating the angle of the cutting edge and these can be used as a guide to how much you're filing down.

 

[rem284]

If buying a new chain , buy a stihl chain , I find they lube the bar better and they have a scribed line on the cutting tooth for you to follow when sharpening . Practis makes perfect

Stihl chain wont fit husvarna bar 1.6 and 1.5 respectively

 

[rem284]

being able to sharpen a chainsaw isn't rocket science. With the type of gauge that finch has put a link to it's just a case of pushing a round file. Get the correct one for the chain. I can get 15 inch chains for about 18 quid and a bar for about 30. I have a stihl 880 with a 42 inch bar it does take a bit more time to sharpen than 15 to 20 inch bar but not that much once it's in the vise.

I have felled commercially on piece work in my younger years. Keeping your saw sharp and doing the maintenance is paramount. Giving the chain a light touch up sharpen every fill also gives your body time to have a wee rest. 15 to 20 inch chain, fill saw should take about 5 minutes. A fill depending on the tree should last 30 to 35 minutes. Having said that i felled some oversized hairy sitka recently, fuel being used faster than that probably taking 1 and a half fills per tree.

Some local hobby chainsaw owners will bring their saws to me and ask if i will sharpen them. NIGHTMARE most of the time. I normally tell them to get the right gauge and file, show them. I also tell them it's designed for cutting wood not stone and metal