How do I zero a Lee Enfield?

12gsnapcaps

Well-Known Member
Hey so i've just bought a sporterised .303 Lee Enfield. It's a n4 mark 1 dated 1944

It's got a 18.5" barrel

With rounds costing nearly £1 each I cant afford to bugger about.

What's the easiest way to zero it? It has a rear battle site and flip up aperture sight with distances listed to 1300 yards

The front sight is a parker hale style hooded sight (not original)

How would i go about zeroing this? Never used iron sights before in my life!
 
Hey so i've just bought a sporterised .303 Lee Enfield. It's a n4 mark 1 dated 1944

It's got a 18.5" barrel

With rounds costing nearly £1 each I cant afford to bugger about.

What's the easiest way to zero it? It has a rear battle site and flip up aperture sight with distances listed to 1300 yards

The front sight is a parker hale style hooded sight (not original)

How would i go about zeroing this? Never used iron sights before in my life!h
How will you afford to shoot it if you can't afford to zero it?

Which I think is a fair question :tiphat:
 
Do i adjust the front sight? It looks to be locked in tightly on a dovetail style system. Do i knock it with a hammer?
 
Ok. I wrote a "how to" article many years ago for Target Gun magazine. The title of the piece was "With the bayonet fixed". As on the No4 the rifle was zeroed "with the bayonet fixed" at 200 yards. Or somesuch. It was a long time ago!

Having said that yours has an eighteen inch barrel and has been sporterised. It also has non-adjustable (well for windage and hold) rearsights. So ALL zeroing must be done by altering the height of the front sight.

Remember you adjust a backsight the way that you want the shots to go. Making the backsight higher for the shots to go higher. But you adjust a foresight AWAY from the direction you want the shots to go. So if you want the shots to go higher you need a lower foresight. On any Enfield the correct way is by replacing the foresight. The incorrect way (but for civilian use it doesn't matter) is by filing it down.

But if you want the shots to go lower the only way, in truth, to do that is to change the foresight for one that is taller. On military foresights the blade will be the same height. It is the "bed" that is deeper or less deep. Why? As the standard military Enfield foresight blade can be used for range estimation being the height (the blade) of a standing man at some yardage or other.

I forget what distance but think it 300 yards? Up to his waist? Anyway it's in the military Small Arms Pamphlets of the time. That's why the blade is the same height and the "up" or "down" depends on the height of the "bed",

The sight increments on military Enfield sights are marked and each increment raises (or lowers) the point of aim so many inches at one hundred yards and so many fractions of an inch at thirty yards. But, my apologies, it was all a long time ago and I can no longer recall any of the increments nor what (or how high) you should set the sights at thirty yards to be XXX or YYY high at one hundred yards.

As it is sporterised my advice would be dump the military rearsight and buy an old good condition not knackered Parker Hale or A J Parker "no gunsmithing" rearsight and use that. If you need a larger rear aperture? Simple! Remove the screw in one that usually would have been used with that P-H or AJP sight.
 
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Ok. I wrote a "how to" article many years ago for Target Gun magazine. The title of the piece was "With the bayonet fixed". As on the No4 the rifle was zeroed "with the bayonet fixed" at 200 yards. Having said that yours has an eighteen inch barrel and has been sporterised. It also has non-adjustable (well for windage and hold) rearsights. So ALL zeroing must be done by altering the height of the front sight.

Remember you adjust a backsight the way that you want the shots to go. Making the backsight higher for the shots to go higher. But you adjust a foresight AWAY from the direction you want the shots to go. So if you want the shots to go higher you need a lower foresight. On any Enfield the correct way is by replacing the foresight. The incorrect way (but for civilian use it doesn't matter) is by filing it down.

But if you want the shots to go lower the only way, in truth, to do that is to change the foresight for one that is taller. On military foresights the blade will be the same height. It is the "bed" that is deeper or less deep. Why? As the standard Enfield foresight can be used for range estimation being the height (the blade) of a standing man at some yardage or other. I forget what distance but think it 300 yards? That's why the blade is the same height and the "up" or "down" depends on the height of the "bed",

The sight increments on military Enfield sights are marked and each increment raises (or lowers) the point of aim so many inches at one hundred yards and so many fractions of an inch at thirty yards. But, my apologies, it was all a long time ago and I can no longer recall any of the increments nor what (or how high) you should set the sights at thirty yards to be XXX or YYY high at one hundred yards.

As it is sporterised my advice would be dump the military rearsight and buy an old good condition not knackered Parker Hale or A J Parker "no gunsmithing" rearsight and use that. If you need a larger rear aperture? Simple! Remove the screw in one that usually would have been used with that P-H or AJP sight.
Thanks for this! :)

How do i adjust for windage? Do i manually knock the foresight in its dovetail left or right to compensate?
 
Are the fore- and rear-sights original despite the sporter-conversion and barrel-chop? If in doubt, a pic might help.

The first thing I'd suggest is to get a great big sheet of paper, fire a round at the aiming-mark and see where the hole appears. Then, without making any adjustments, fire another 5-10 rounds and see what size the group is.

You'll then be in a position to decide
1. whether to bother carrying on at all, given the grouping; or if you do, then
2. what you need to adjust for in terms of deviation from the POA, and what is just 'group-size'.

My limited experience with this sort of rifle suggests that they are not a rifle for someone who can't afford to bugger about - but I hope you have a happier experience with it!
:)
 
So not a standard milspec with open sights but sporter with PH sights ?
is it this : 1627485917429.webp or A parkerhale Sporter 303 ? please show a picture . the massive could have more of a chance to point you in the right direction info is king .
 
some light reading
Ps i have the Little brass box with the sight rings in from my Enfield target days .
 

The Zeroing Of Rifles (According to the REME)​


(Taken from the Précis by the Technical Training School REME)
By the term "zeroing" we mean the adjustment of the sights of a weapon so as to give the correct position of the shots on the target in relation to the point of aim.
An Armourer is always concerned with the permanent zeroing of a Rifle, which is effected by the adjustment of, or the fitting of a new blade to the Foresight. In passing it is as well to remember that a temporary adjustment for errors in elevation, can be made by altering the Backsight, e.g. if the mean point of impact (MPI) of a group of shots is below the correct position it can be corrected by raising the Backsight, similarly if an error above the correct position is obtained it can be corrected by lowering the Backlight. If the Rifle is fitted with a Windgauge Backsight, errors of deflection can be adjusted in the same way. It will be seen that in each case the Backsight is moved AWAY from the error.
On the Mk1 leaf sight - 1 click = 1 minute = 1 inch at 100 yds (approx)​
In adjusting the Foresight however, the opposite rule applies. If a Rifle is shooting low the Foresight must be moved down or TOWARDS the error (i.e. a lower blade must be fitted).
To enable Rifles to be zeroed, a moveable blade is fitted into a dovetail base, thereby allowing the blade to be moved from side to side to correct lateral errors.
The Foresight Blades are also made in varying heights so that the vertical errors can be corrected by the replacement of the existing blade by one of a different height.
There are varying sets of blades for the different types of Rifles, but on all those Rifles a blade marked "0" is provided, the tip of which when fitted to the Rifle is exactly one inch above the axis of the bore.

All other blades graduate from this "0" or zero blade either above or below it in constant increments. In the case of British Rifles this increment is .015". If a blade is lower than the zero blade it is referred to as a "minus" blade, and if it is above it becomes a "plus" blade.
All blades are marked so as to be easily recognised, those below the zero having as a prefix the minus sign e.g. —.015". The "plus" sign is not used; therefore a blade with only a figure, e.g. .015", is always a plus blade.
Sight Blades are always fitted from the Left side of the rifle and tapped out from the Right.
(Note: This was the accepted wisdom with regard to the SMLE that didn't have a split block or screw, but I have found no evidence to suggest that there is any practical reason for it other than the fact that it followed the same rule that applied to screws, which all go in from the left, and in theory it should make no difference. RW)
The Mean Sight Radius is the distance from the aperture or "U" of the Backsight to the tip of the Foresight, and this differs on the various Rifles.
Rifle No.1​
19”​
Rifle No. 4​
28.74”​
Rifle No. 5​
23.25”​
It will be appreciated that the Sight Radius governs the amount of adjustment made on the target by the fitting of a different size of blade foresight. The longer the Sight Radius the smaller will be the angle made between a line from the Backsight to the old blade and a line from the Backsight to the new blade.
To assess the difference which will be made by a change of Foresight use the following formula:—
RANGE x DIFFERENCE IN HEIGHT OF BLADES =VARIATION ON TARGET​
SIGHT RADIUS OF WEAPON
To give a simple example, assume that we are going to replace an "0" blade with a —.015" blade on a Rifle No. 4, the Sight Radius of which is 28.74" and our range is 100 yards. By fitting a LOWER blade the resultant MPI will be HIGHER by:—
100 X 36 X 0.015 = 1.87"​
28.74
As we included the figure 36 in our top line, bringing our 100 yards to inches, our answer is in inches. So that by replacing an "0" blade with a —.015" on a Rifle No. 4 we would raise our MPI by 1.87" at 100 yards.

With a Leaf Backsight fitted to a Rifle, the aperture or slide should be set at the lowest graduation, namely 200 yards. It is not however satisfactory to zero a Rifle at this range, and the ranges used are 100 yards or 25 yards. It will be seen therefore, that for the resultant MPI. to be correct, it would have to be somewhere above the point of aim, so that when actually firing at 200 yards, or at other ranges with the correct reading on the sight the shots will group AT the point of aim.
In the case of Rifle No. 4 fitted with an Mk 2 Backsight, the apertures of which are sighted for 300 and 600 yards, the Rifle will be zeroed using the 300 yard aperture with a Bayonet fixed. Therefore the correct position of the MPI at 100 yards or 25 yards would be even higher than with a leaf sight.
The small aperture Battle Sight on some Leaf Backsights manufactured by Savage Rifles is sighted for 400 yds.
Rifle​
No
of
Blades​
Lowest
Blade​
Highest
Blade​
Range​
Variation in MPI with one alteration of Blade​
Correct Position of MPI in relation to Point of Aim​
No. 1​
7​
-.06”​
.03”​
100 yds
25 yds​
2.77”
0.69”​
3” above
¾” above​
No. 3​
9​
-.015”​
.135”​
100 yds
25 yds​
1.70”
0.50”​
3” above
¾” above​
No. 4​
8​
-.03”​
.075”​
100 yds
25 yds​
1.87”
0.475”​
3” above
¾” High​
No. 4
With
MK2
Back
Sight​
8​
-.03”​
.075”​
100 yds
25 yds​
1.87”
0.475”​
6” above
1 ½” above​
No. 5​
8​
-.03”​
.075”​
100 yds
25 yds​
2.33”
0.582”​
3” above
¾” above​

Lateral adjustment will be made to the Foresight with the aid of a "Tools Foresight, Cramp." There are different patterns of these for the various Rifles, namely:—
Rifle​
Cramp​
One turn​
One Width of Blade​
25 yds​
100 yds​
25 yds​
100 yds​
No. 1No. 1 Mk 1
1.6”​
7.4”​
2”​
8”​
No. 1No. 1 Mk 2
2”​
8”​
2”​
8”​
No. 3No. 2
No Data available​
No. 4No. 3
1”​
5”​
1 ½”​
6”​
No. 5No. 4
1 ½”​
6”​
2”​
8”​


1. 2. 3. 4.

On the Cramps Nos. 1 and 2 there is a deflection scale to guide adjustment.
Each division = 4” at 100 yds, otherwise each turn = 0.040”of movement.​

One complete turn of the screw cramp X Range in inches.
Sighting Radius.
Example:
Weapon Rifle No. 4
Cramp No. 3. - 25 threads per inch (1/25th)
Range 100 yds. (3600”)
Sight Radius 28.74”
= .040" X 3600" = 5.010"
28.74"
= One complete turn of the screw cramp at 100 yds.
 
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