Zeiss or Swarovski

topscots1

Well-Known Member
In the quest for a the perfect scope ( I know it Dosent exist)

I had set myself on a ZEISS V6 2.5-15x56 purely a stalking scope.

Now I’m debating the merits of the V8 over the V6

With the possibility of a Swarovski z8 or z6.

Shots range from 20 metres to 3-400 longest feasible shots.

Not looking for a debate on the ethics of a 300 M shot I’m confident in my ability.

In the past I have stick with Schmidt and bender, Nightforce and a couple of Swarovski DS.

Out of the swarovski or ZEISS debate genuine users what would be your go to ?
 
Interesting question.
I had the same dilemma, and ended up with a Delta Titanium because looking through them all, I couldn’t justify the Zeiss or Swarovski premium prices compared with what I ended up choosing.
And not that it was a differentiating feature, but the delta also works with nv (bonus for me 👏).
All down to personal choice and what you’re looking for.
 
In the quest for a the perfect scope ( I know it Dosent exist)

I had set myself on a ZEISS V6 2.5-15x56 purely a stalking scope.

Now I’m debating the merits of the V8 over the V6

With the possibility of a Swarovski z8 or z6.

Shots range from 20 metres to 3-400 longest feasible shots.

Not looking for a debate on the ethics of a 300 M shot I’m confident in my ability.

In the past I have stick with Schmidt and bender, Nightforce and a couple of Swarovski DS.

Out of the swarovski or ZEISS debate genuine users what would be your go to ?
I’ve got the v6 & v8 they are superb and among the top scopes, I’ve just set up the ASV on the V6 and it’s a delight to use, illuminated reticule is spot on and dusk and dawn is brilliant the V8 has the edge but both are superb scopes and that’s coming from a dyed in the wood S&B man
 
Does weight bother you? The V8 34mm tube adds a few grams to the weight compared with it's rivals. Great scopes though.
 
The zeiss HT is still the best low light scope in my humble opinion and given me valuable extra time on the fallow at first and last light. I also have a V8, Iike the extra mag on that and rail mount is great on the R8. Both have ASV turrets and work well on my home loads. I shoot sub 150m with occasional 200m, but nice to know each rifle is set should I need a longer backup shot. Always had zeiss scopes but swaro or Leica binos!
 
I would say if you're going illuminated then avoid Zeiss as they will not fix the electronics for free after the 2 year warranty has expired if anything goes wrong. Not sure if Swarovski will do better but you could be in for a nasty surprise should the worst happen especially after paying out so much and expecting the legendary warranty services that people talk about when mentioning the top European glass makers.
 
Don’t just look at magnification range, think about how it fits the rifle and yourself. No point in spending large coin on a z8 or V8 with a low bottom range, when combined with the rifle it has all the handling qualities of a scaffold tube which makes it useless for driven game.

Personally I think you are better off sticking with a lighter weight 4-12x42 or 50 by any of major brands for general purposes stalking, and a dedicated 1-4x20 or a red dot for when / if you do driven stuff.

Leica, Zeiss, Swarovski and S&B are all good, so too are Leupold. A lot is down to your own eyes and style.
 
Older Zeiss 4x32, does all you need out to 300yds. Weight is low, light transmission is excellent, sits very low in the rifle, short so doesn’t impede on the rear iron sight. Elegant and no fancy bits to break.

Unless you’re shouting long range rabbits or long range foxes, it’ll do all you ever require IMHO. Same with Swarovski 4x32 or S&B 4x36
 
Have Zeiss and Swaro and really it’s splitting hairs, both are fantastic. I love the optical quality and simplicity of the Z6i and it’s very easy to set up the ballistic turret.

Regards,
Gixer
 
Older Zeiss 4x32, does all you need out to 300yds. Weight is low, light transmission is excellent, sits very low in the rifle, short so doesn’t impede on the rear iron sight. Elegant and no fancy bits to break.

Unless you’re shouting long range rabbits or long range foxes, it’ll do all you ever require IMHO. Same with Swarovski 4x32 or S&B 4x36
You can honestly say that you’d take a 300yd shot with a 4x scope at a deer?

You must be certainly confident in your ability.

Below is a roe buck looking through an s&b 8x56.

At a confirmed 285 yds.

 
Leica Magnus !

Probably the best glass I have is a Leica ASV scope. Dials not exact though 1/4 MOA but further up the spindle it is more like 1/3 per click. Reliable though. Good warranty.

Does weight bother you? The V8 34mm tube adds a few grams to the weight compared with it's rivals. Great scopes though.

V8's are 36mm tubes. Use a 2.8-20x56 on a work rifle. Not impressed. Dull in low light with poor contrast despite size. Dials OK. Heavy.
 
V8's are 36mm tubes. Use a 2.8-20x56 on a work rifle. Not impressed. Dull in low light with poor contrast despite size. Dials OK. Heavy.
Yep, high zoom ratios cost light transmission. There is a reason why the best low light spcopes (Zeiss HT and Schmidt & Bender Polar) stick with a 4-zoom ratio.
 
You can honestly say that you’d take a 300yd shot with a 4x scope at a deer?

You must be certainly confident in your ability.

Below is a roe buck looking through an s&b 8x56.

At a confirmed 285 yds.

Have taken reds out to 345 with Zeiss 4x32, no bother at all.
Taken roe to 240, it was easier than with a high mag scope giving sight wobble.
Not taken roe at 300, but larger species is easy. Having taken many reds on the hill with 4x32, 8-12 x mag scopes, and 3-9; on high mag, you’re so much more likely to have a poor trigger pull as you visually observe the scope wobble moving around slightly. On low mag, the wobble zone is still there, but you don’t see it, so you break the shot much more cleanly, you’re far less tense because in your head, the reticle is dead still on the target. On high mag, it’s the same wobble zone, but you’re trying to wait for ‘that’ moment when the cross hairs are ‘perfect’, resulting often in a jerked trigger pull and worse shot placement than with a confident no-stress pull with low-mag anywhere in the invisible wobble zone.
This is especially true on the hill where a bit of wind can mess with your wobble zone perception and psychology

I’ve got a 3-9x36 as well, and it never goes over 4x.

Reg. swaro over Zeiss, they are all over engineered now, wouldn’t have one if thrown at me. Look for either a classic Zeiss distal za t* or diavari, or Swaro Z3 model.
I live S&B, but have lost interest in their range since they stopped 4x36 and moved to non-gloss 1” tube offerings. Reticles are also too think. I’d consider a Klassik 6x42 again.
 
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